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In depth information on do it yourself home property maintenance, covering all aspects of residential home, commercial, business, and apartment building repair, remodeling, and renovation projects Featuring tips, advice, how-to and step-by-step information to help you maintain and improve the value of your business building and home.

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Attic Repairs and Improvements

No matter how hot it gets in your home this summer, you can bet that it’s even hotter in your attic. All that heat in your attic gets transferred to the ceiling below, which will in turn heat the interior of your house, and oOne way to solve this problem is to cool your attic with an attic fan.

An attic fan pulls in outside air through the roof vents and forces hot attic air out through the fan. On a hot day, the outside air can be 15 to 30 degrees cooler than attic air, even if your attic is well vented. This exchange of air can make quite a difference in keeping your attic and your house cool in the summer even if your attic is insulated or you have air conditioning.

Choosing a fan is a relatively simple process. Decide how you will mount the fan by reading the steps below, and then choose the appropriate model. You can mount the fan to vent either through the roof or through the gable. Next, choose the correct size fan by comparing the manufacturer’s specifications to the square footage of your attic space. If you have a large house, or will encounter problems mounting a large fan, consider two smaller fans that together will meet the manufacturer’s recommendations for your attic.

Beginner - 5 hours

• Intermediate - 4 hours

• Advanced - 3 hours

Caution ! Make sure you turn off the electrical circuit you will be working on.

Caution ! Working in a hot attic can lead to dehydration. Make sure you drink plenty of water and take  frequent breaks.

Caution ! When walking through an attic, always step on the ceiling joists, never between them.

Helpful TIP  P Make sure your power source can handle at least a 15 amp draw from the fan. If not, you will need to install a new circuit.

Helpful TIP   P Try to purchase an attic fan with a temperature control switch (regulator) so that it turns  on and off as the attic heats and cools. This will save money by not having the fan run continuously. It also makes installation easier because no power switch will need to be installed in the house.

Helpful TIP   PHeat rises, so position the fan near the top of the roof for better efficiency.

Helpful TIP   PFor the hot air to exit, outside air needs to come in. Make sure that your existing roof    vents are large enough and not blocked by anything,  such as  insulation. To determine if your existing roof vents are large enough, add the total square footage of all in take vents together. The total should  be at least double the area of the fan opening.


Learning Steps


1. To mount an attic fan on the roof, drill a starter hole out through the roof. Next, with a reciprocating saw, start your cut in the starter hole and cut a circle matching the diameter of the fan. Note: If you have a tile, metal, or flat roof, this portion of your installation should be done by a professional roofer as special tools and techniques are needed to cut through and seal these roofs. Other options are explained in step 4.

2. Slip the flange on the fan housing under the shingles that are above the hole. It may be necessary to remove some of the shingles or cut them back to accomplish this. Refer to the Replacing Damaged Shingles tutorial to replace your shingles. Before putting the fan in place, make sure to spread a generous amount of roofing mastic under the flange to seal against water.

3. Once in place, nail down all four corners of the flange (the top corners can be nailed through the shingles) and put some tar over each of the nails. If necessary, also screw in place any hood or cover at this time

4. An alternate method of mounting a fan is to mount it in the gable end of older homes. Gable ends should have existing vents set between studs that are 16-inches apart on center. To take advantage of these vents, simply use a fan with mounting brackets that allow it to be mounted across the studs (such fans are a common item). To make the fan work more efficiently, put blocking between the studs, both above and below the fan to direct the flow of air out. Note: If you do choose to use an existing vent for your fan, there must be at least two other vents of similar size to serve as intake vents. If not, you will need to install more vents for the fan to work properly.

5. With the fan in place, remove the regulator cover and secure the regulator to a near-by stud or rafter.

6. Remove a knock-out for the power supply cable. Install a cable clamp in the hole, thread the cable through the clamp and tighten the clamp. Remove the sheathing on the cable and strip the wires. Repeat the procedure for the fan cable as necessary.

7. Attach the fan wires to the regulator wires as specified by the manufacturer. Usually, all the white wires will go together, the black wires from the supply line and regulator will go together, the black wire from the fan will go to the red wire from the regulator, and the copper or green ground wires will be connected to each other or a ground screw.

8. When the connections have been made, reinstall the cover to the regulator and set the temperature control to about 95 degrees Fahrenheit. This setting should provide a good compromise between energy efficiency and cooling. Your fan is ready to start keeping your house cool, so turn on the power and see how it works. Remember, if it does not come on right away, it may not be hot enough in the attic. Try turning the regulator down or waiting until the attic gets warmer before concluding that the fan is not working.

Materials Needed

• Attic fan
• Roofing nails
• Roofing mastic (tar)
• Electrical cable (NM)
• Cable clamps
• Wire nuts
• Self tapping wood screws

Tools Needed

• Reciprocating saw
• Electric drill
• Drill bits and screw bits
• Hammer
• Screwdriver
• Putty knife
• Wire cutter/stripper
• Tape measure
• Work gloves
• Safety glasses

Attic Insulation - Getting Ready for the Cold (and Hot)

Heat naturally flows from a warmer area to a cooler one in three ways: conduction, where heat is transferred directly from mass to mass; convection, the movement of heated air from one space to another (hot air rises, heavier cool air sinks); and radiation, which simply means that any warm body gives off heat toward a cooler one.

The function of insulation is to minimize the radiation and convection transfer of heat between the attic and the living area below so that our homes stay warmer in cool weather and cooler in warm weather.

In this section I discuss the merits and uses of various types of well-known insulations and inform you on how best to evaluate R-values.

R stands for 'resistance to heat flow.' The greater the R-value, the greater the insulative power. R-value requirements depend on factors such as local climate and the surface you are insulating (walls, ceiling, floor, etc.) and will be regulated by your local building code. I suggest you contact the office of your city or county building inspector for the requirements of your area. Each region of the country has different requirements for adequate amounts of insulation.

In most areas, (see weatherizing section), local utility companies will offer helpful suggestions on how to reduce your energy bills. Many will arrange to have an expert come to your home to point out areas that need to be insulated or weatherized. Often there is no charge for this service and it may even lead to low- or no-interest loan programs you may be eligible for. Also, state or federal tax credits may apply.
Check with your State Energy Commission, local power company, or local home center for the optimum R-value in your region.



Safe-use practices are important when you work with any type of insulation.

1. Dust mask and goggles are necessary for work with all types of insulation, or when sawing wood.

2. Fully cover your body, if possible long sleeves, a hood, long pants, and gloves. Insulating materials are skin irritants.

3. Always use the correct tool for the job.

4. Be sure power tools are properly grounded.

5. Watch power cord placement so that it does not interfere with the tool's operation.

6. A hard hat should be worn, since roofing nails may be sticking through the sheathing.

7. If you are not allergic to tetanus shots, be sure yours is current. There are usually exposed, rusty nails in an old attic.

8. Keep the insulation clear (3" or so) from objects that transfer heat to reduce fire hazards, and install sheet metal baffles around recessed light fixtures, chimneys, and flues.

9. In older homes with possible frayed wires, do not allow the aluminum vapor barrier of batt insulation to come in contact with the wire, since it could short circuit

10.  Working in attics or other hot areas can cause loss of body salt by excessive sweating. Consider taking salt tablets.

11.  When working outside on a roof, wear shoes or boots with rubber soles; stay clear of power lines; secure extension ladders with safety hooks that clamp over the ridge; and delay your work until the roof is free from dampness of rain, frost snow, or dew.

12.  When working high on the outside of the house, I suggest you rent scaffolding to provide a balanced, level working surface.

13.  Do not step through attic floor joists onto the ceiling of the room below. It will give way.

14.  Some types of insulation are flammable. Check with your local building department and fire department for special application precautions or restrictions.

Useful Terms

Caulk. A pliable material, usually forced into a gap or crack with a gun or pressurized can, hardens into an effective seal against air and moisture infiltration.

Cellulose . Blown-in or loose, consists of rock wool, glass fiber, vermiculite, and/or perlite. Use this in floors, walls, and hard-to-reach places. This type of insulation is poured between joists or blown in with special equipment. It is best suited for use in irregular-shaped areas and is the best option for blowing into existing finished walls.

Fiberglass . Blankets or batts, a widely used insulator for walls, floors, ceilings, roofs, and attics. Fitted and stapled easily between studs, joists, and beams, I feel it is best suited for the do-it-yourselfer.

Flexi-vent . A waffle-like strip of plastic designed to allow air circulation to carry away moisture that could build up under insulation.

Foam . Extruded polystyrene, isocyanurate board, and fiberglass board. These rigid panels are used on unfinished walls, in new construction, or on basement and masonry walls or exterior surfaces. The panels are glued or cut to friction fit between studs, joists, or furring strips and must be covered with drywall or paneling for fire safety. They offer a high insulating value for a relatively thin material, but are highly flammable, and some chemically based sprays or foams may discharge poisonous films over a period of time. Be sure to use a closed-cell, waterproof rigid panel in exterior applications or in high moisture areas.

Furring. Strips of wood used to level out a surface prior to finishing.

Shims . Thin wedges of wood used to bring furring strips level with each other when used on an uneven wall.

Silicate compound . Made of glass and sand. It does not burn, release toxic fumes, nor attract vermin. It comes in lightweight easy-to-handle bags and should be used in the same manner as loose fill or cellulose.

Vapor barrier . Most common is a 6 mi. sheet of plastic attached over insulation to eliminate moisture infiltration and deterioration of insulation.

Tip : Working in your attic is hot and tiring. Try to work early in the morning before it gets too hot. Carry a spray container of cold water to spray on yourself and your fogged-up goggles.


Attic Furnace Continues to Heat Home During Warm Weather
By: Barry Stone

Dear Barry,

We are selling our home that has a brand new asphalt shingle roof. We have noticed that whenever the weather is hot, the forced air furnace in our attic turns on. The only way we can get it to stop running is to shut off the circuit breaker at the electric panel. We called a local home inspector who advised us to install an attic fan. We took his advice, but the new fan runs continually during warm weather, and this hasn't stopped the furnace from blowing also. How can we solve this annoying problem before we list the house? -- Doug

Dear Doug,

Your problem may be the temperature limit switch in your forced air furnace. This is a built-in thermostat, which lets your furnace blower know when to turn on. Limit switches in furnaces are typically set to activate at about 150 degrees, and overheating of the attic during hot weather could be causing it to turn on. What is surprising, however, is that the problem has continued after installing a ventilation fan.

There are two conditions which may be causing unwanted operation of your furnace blower: The temperature limit switch may be turning on when temperatures are less than 150 degrees. If that's the case, the switch could need repair or replacement. If, however, the attic is actually heating to 150 degrees, then additional ventilation is needed. Therefore, my advice is two-fold:

First, have your heating contractor check the limit switch to be sure proper adjustment and operability. The switch may be set at a lower-than-normal temperature, or it may simply be defective.

If the limit switch is OK, place a thermometer in your attic on a hot day to determine just how hot your attic is becoming. If the temperature is nearing 150 degrees, then installing a set of turban vents along the roof ridges should adequately lower the ambient attic temperature during hot weather.

Dear Barry,

The home inspector who checked my house recommended anti-siphon valves for the lawn sprinkler system. This came as a surprise, since the system works perfectly. Please tell me the purpose of anti-siphon valves and whether they're truly necessary. -- Lorne

Dear Lorne,

Anti-siphon sprinkler valves are a form of backflow protection. Their purpose is to prevent contaminated water from flowing back into the water supply system of your home. The absence of anti-siphon valves indicates that your irrigation system was installed by someone who lacks adequate plumbing knowledge.

Your irrigation pipes retain standing water long after the system is used. This water can become stagnant, harboring bacteria and other micro-organisms. In the event of back-siphonage, unsanitary water in the irrigation system could contaminate the potable water supply. For this reason, the Uniform Plumbing Code requires that all irrigation lines be equipped with anti-backflow protection.

To ensure health safety, you will need to hire a licensed plumber.


Continuous Ridge Vents Offer Attic Ventilation Alternative
By: Paul Bianchina

While it’s an acknowledged fact that an attic needs good ventilation, one of the biggest objections that builders and homeowners have to installing an adequate number of roof vents is that most of them can be unsightly. They don’t match the color or style of the roofing, and can mar the beauty of many carefully designed roof structures.

One alternative to the traditional metal or colored plastic roof vents is to use a continuous ridge vent. Continuous ridge vents are easy to install, and they offer airflow right at the ridge – the highest point of the attic where it’s needed most. The vent material is compatible with wood shakes and shingles, composition shingles, roof tiles, and metal roofing, and best of all, since the vent is covered over with the same roofing that’s on the rest of the roof, it’s much less visible. Combined with a sufficient number of low vents in the eaves or soffits, it offers a workable alternative for ventilating just about any type of attic.

How They Work

In normal roof construction and roofing, plywood or waferboard sheathing panels are installed over the rafters and meet snugly at the peak of the roof. The roofing is then installed over the sheathing, and the joint where the roofing material meets at the peak is covered over with a ridge cap to seal the joint and finish off the installation. No rain can get in, and no attic air can get out.With a continuous ridge vent, the sheathing panels are installed with a gap at the ridge, typically about two to four inches wide, depending on the vent material being used. This gap allows hot attic air to escape, and is often large enough that no other vents are required on the roof.

To cover the gap and still allow air to move out of the attic, a special continuous ridge vent material is used, of which there are a couple of different types. Cor-A-Vent, one of the oldest and best know ridge vent manufacturers, uses strips of corrugated polyethylene – similar in cross-sectional appearance to a corrugated cardboard box – building up four to six plys of the material in each strip. The strips have a flexible fold and a v-cut profile along the centerline, allowing each strip to be folded over the ridge sheathing. This allows the vent material to cover the ridge gap, and air exits through the corrugations.

Cor-A-Vent offers a couple of different thicknesses of vent material – the thicker the material is, the more ventilation area it has, but the higher it protrudes up above the roof. Net free area for this material – the actual air space in the vent, abbreviated NFA – ranges from 9 to 18 square inches per linear foot, depending on thickness.Another style, Celotex’s Roll Vent, is a two-layer composite of nylon and polyester that creates a "fabric" with numerous small air gaps that allow air circulation. The flexible matt comes in 20 and 50-foot rolls, and conforms to roof pitches of 3/12 to 12/12. Here again, it is installed over a gap in the sheathing, covering the ridge while still allowing air to exit.

Roll Vent has an NFA of 18 square inches per linear foot of material with either material, no special tools or techniques are required for installation. For existing roofs, the ridge shingles are removed first, then a chalk line is snapped along each side of the ridge and the roofing and roof sheathing are cut out along the lines to create the gap. For new construction, the sheathing is simply stopped short of the ridge. The gap is stopped short of each end of the ridge by about six to 12 inches. Starting at one end, the vent material is installed so that it is centered over the gap in the sheathing. The material is held down with standard roofing nails, and can be cut with snips or a utility knife.

Finally, to make the installation weather-tight and cover the vent material so that it blends in with the surrounding roof, ridge shingles of the same material as the roofing are installed over the vent and fastened with nails. Continuous ridge vents are available wherever you purchase your shingles and other roofing materials, and complete installation instructions are provided with the material. Talk with your contractor or roofing supplier to determine how much ventilation your roof requires, and whether you can achieve sufficient ventilation with a continuous ridge. They can also help you with special applications such as overly high or low pitches, clerestories, and other situations.

Copyright 2002 Inman News Features. Distributed by Inman News Features


Creating Safe Attic Storage
By: Paul Bianchina

The quest for additional storage space seems to be a continuous one, and there may be some interesting possibilities right over your head. Attics can offer a lot of potential for creating effective storage, but only if you do it correctly. 

The first consideration with attic storage is safety – is the attic safely and conveniently accessible, and can it safely handle the weight demands imposed by storage. With this in mind, you'll want to begin with a thorough inspection of the attic space to determine the structural strength and the practical feasibility of using it effectively – effectively being the key word – for storage.  

Many attics, old and new alike, are not framed with storage or living space in mind – they are simply a dead space between the top of the ceiling and the bottom of the roof. When looking at the ceiling joists to determine their weight-bearing capacity for storage, there are three things to take into consideration – the size of the joists, the center-to-center distance between them, and the distance between the walls that support them.

Once you've determined these three things—all of which can be ascertained with a quick look in the attic—discuss the situation with your local lumber yard. They have lumber tables know as span charts that will allow them to help you determine how much weight the attic can support, and what, if anything, you may need to do to reinforce things.

If you have a newer home and your attic framing has been done with engineered, manufactured trusses, storage becomes more difficult. Engineered trusses are very strong, but their configuration of intermediate members between the ceiling and roof make accessible storage somewhat impractical. Remember that you cannot cut trusses, so if you would like to try and devise some storage up there, your best bet is to discuss the situation with an experienced remodeling contractor or with a local truss manufacturer.

If the attic will safely allow for storage, then access to it is the next consideration. Most attics are accessed via a simple hatch in the ceiling, which is practical only for very limited storage that you won't need to access very often. A better solution is to replace the attic hatch with a pull-down attic ladder. These come in both wood and aluminum varieties, in sizes to fit just about any standard application. They are inexpensive and easy for the do-it-yourselfer to install, and are readily available through most lumber yards and home centers.

Next, you need a floor to place your stored items on. Plywood is an ideal material for this use – use ¾-inch thick tongue and groove sheets, and install them using adhesive and either screws or nails. The drawback to plywood, however, is that it's often difficult to get the sheets into the attic. If plywood is impractical, 1x6 tongue and groove boards may prove to be an easier solution. In either case, you'll find it easier to measure and precut the sheets or boards on the ground before taking them into the attic. 

Remember also that you cannot cut any of the intermediate supports or braces that help support the roof structure, so you'll need to work around them. You will also need to be careful with any electrical wires that are laid across the tops of the joists – you'll either need to reroute them into the joist cavities, or furr up the joists so that the wires are safely below the storage area floor. Whatever you do, make sure that the wires are not subject to damage when installing the attic floor, or from inadvertently stepping on them when moving around in the attic space.

Lighting is the next thing that makes for a safe and easily accessible attic – in fact, most codes require that if the attic is accessible by stairs or by a ladder, it must have a light that can be turned on and off at the attic's entry. Depending on the amount of headroom you have, simple porcelain single-bulb fixtures may be easy to install and provide enough light. If you cannot maintain an adequate amount of clearance between the bulb and any combustible material, then you'll need to use a fluorescent fixture instead – they produce considerably less heat.

Remember that attic conversions that require structural framing or electrical wiring will require a building permit, and your local building department can help you with understanding the applicable codes. If you have any questions whatsoever about the structural integrity of your attic or how to work with the necessary structural, electrical, or other changes involved, do not proceed with any work – consult with your building department, an experienced remodeling contractor, or even a structural engineer before going any further.

Copyright 2002 Inman News Features. Distributed by Inman News Features.


Attic Fan Installation

An attic should be ventilated year-round. In summer, ventilation prevents excessive heat buildup, which may shorten the life of some roofing materials and drive up cooling costs. In winter, ventilation pulls out interior moisture, which tends to collect in attics and may saturate insulation or cause mold and mildew to grow. In general, you should provide vents equal to 1/300 of the ceiling area of the top floor. For truly effective cross-ventilation, vents should be located low (as soffit grilles or continuous soffit vents at the roof eaves) and high (near the roof peak, in the form of either gable-wall vents or fans, ridge vents, or roof ventilators).

This project describes the basic steps to install a powered ventilator in a gable-end wall. Choose a model that is controlled with a thermostat and, if moisture buildup has been a problem, with a humidistat.

Materials List

·    Tape measure

·    Work light and extension cord

·    Pocket calculator

·    Goggles and dust mask

·    Extension ladder

·    Wall-mounted attic ventilator

·    Siding removal/reinstallation tools as req'd.

·    2-ft. level

·    Carpenter's square or combination square

·    Drill and 1/2-in. spade bit

·    Portable jigsaw or reciprocating saw

·    Circular saw or crosscut handsaw

·    2x4 and/or 3/4-in. plywood

·    8d common nails

·    Hammer

·    Neon circuit tester

·    Standard and Phillips screwdrivers

·    Wire stripper/cutter

1. Determine Fan Capacity: The Home Ventilating Institute recommends that one or more power attic ventilators provide at least 10 air exchanges an hour. Multiply the length by the width of your attic floor to determine its area, and multiply the result by 0.7 to determine how many cubic feet per minute (CFM) of air the fan(s) must move. (L x W) x 0.7 = CFM . Add 15 to 20 percent to the result for steep roof pitches (such as 8/12 pitch, which means 8 inches of vertical rise in 12 inches of horizontal run) or if you have dark roof shingles.

2. Determine Intake Vent Requirements: Divide the CFM capacity of the fan by 300 and multiply by 144 to determine the minimum area (in square inches) of intake vents. (CFM / 300) x 144 = min. area (sq. in.)

For information on soffit vents contact The Home Ventilating Institute (a division of the Air Movement and Control Association International Inc.) at 847-394-0150.

3. Cut Wall Opening: Working from the top down, remove the siding below the roof peak and center and level the template for the louvered vent, as shown. Following the manufacturer's instructions, bore a starter hole through the wall sheathing and cut the opening with a portable jigsaw or reciprocating saw. (If you have an adequately sized louvered vent, skip to Step 6.)
4. Frame the Opening: Provide framing and/or a plywood mounting board, as directed by the manufacturer. Additional cutting of existing framing from the inside may be required.

·    Caution: Provide adequate work lighting. Lay down a temporary floor, such as a piece of plywood, if needed. Wear goggles and dust mask.

5. Install the Louver or Shutter: Secure the exterior accessory shutter (shown) with screws and reinstall the siding. Siding manufacturers are usually good sources for how-to information on siding installation and repair, which vary according to the type of siding.
6. Mount the Fan: Mount the fan to the framing or mounting board with screws, as directed by the manufacturer.
7. Install the Controller: Remove any knobs and the cover so you can secure the controller to the mounting plate or studs with screws, and follow the manufacturer's instructions for locating the unit. Do not substitute controls (such as solid-state speed controls) that are not approved by the manufacturer.
8. Make Wiring Connections: All electrical work must be done in accordance with local codes. If you are not familiar with basic wiring procedures, hire a licensed electrician. Follow the manufacturer's wiring diagram to make the connection to your power supply. Shut off the breaker or remove the fuse for the fan circuit; and verify that it is off using a neon circuit tester.

9. Adjust Settings: Thermostats and humidistat are adjustable. Follow the manufacturer's guidelines and instructions to make the necessary adjustments.

Do-It-Best-Yourself Mold Solutions

Phil can help you fix your own property’s mold problems at low-cost, more safely, and better-in- results than what is done by many mold inspectors and mold contractors.  How can Phil help you?

     1. Read Phil’s five plain-English,
mold advice books to master mold inspection, testing, removal, remediation, and prevention for your house, condo, apartment, office,  or workplace.

     2. Buy do-it-yourself, affordable mold test kits, mold lab analysis, video inspection scope, mold cleaner, and mold killer, for the  successful toxic and household mold inspection, mold testing, mold species identification and quantification, mold cleaning, mold removal, and mold remediation to find mold, kill mold, clean mold, and remove mold from your residence or commercial building.

     3. Get FREE mold advice, mold help, and/or answers to your mold questions, by emailing mold expert Phillip Fry at You can also email pictures of your mold problems in jpeg file format as email attachments.


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Do-It-Best-Yourself Mold Solutions

Phil can help you fix your own property’s mold problems at low-cost, more safely, and better-in- results than what is done by many mold inspectors and mold contractors.  How can Phil help you?

     1. Read Phil’s five plain-English,
mold advice books to master mold inspection, testing, removal, remediation, and prevention for your house, condo, apartment, office,  or workplace.

     2. Buy do-it-yourself, affordable mold test kits, mold lab analysis, video inspection scope, mold cleaner, mold killer,
and a mold-killing high ozone generator for the  successful toxic and household mold inspection, mold testing, mold species identification and quantification, mold cleaning, mold removal, and mold remediation to find mold, kill mold, clean mold, and remove mold from your residence or commercial building.

     3. Get FREE mold advice, mold help, and/or answers to your mold questions, by emailing mold expert Phillip Fry at . You can also email pictures of your mold problems in jpeg file format as email attachments.

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