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Bathroom Repairs and
Remodeling
How old is your bathroom? How long should it last? Could I change it to
make it nicer?
Common Sense and Safety
Before undertaking any plumbing project, please review these safety notes:
1. Safety glasses or goggles should be worn whenever power tools are in
use and when chiseling, sanding, scraping or hammering overhead,
especially if you wear contact lenses.
2. Wear ear protectors when using power tools as some operate at noise
levels that damage hearing.
3. Be careful of loose hair and clothing so that it does not get caught in
tools.
4. The proper respirator or face mask should be worn when sanding or
sawing or using substances with toxic fumes.
5. Keep blades sharp. A dull blade requires excessive force, can slip and
cause accidents.
6. Always use the right tool for the job.
7. Repair or discard tools with cracks in the wooden handles or chips in
the metal parts that could fail and cause injuries.
8. Don't drill, shape or saw anything that isn't firmly secured.
9. Oily rags are spontaneously combustible. Take care when you store and
discard them.
10. Don't abuse your tools.
11. Keep a First Aid Kit on hand.
12. Do not work with tools when you are tired. That's when most accidents
occur.
13. Read the owner's manual for all tools and know the proper use of each.
14. Keep tools out of reach of small children.
15. Unplug all power tools when changing settings or parts.
Plumbing Codes and Standards
Standards have been established in the plumbing industry to protect the
health and safety of the community because faulty plumbing can result in serious
health and safety hazards such as mold growth infestations, noxious gas backups, back siphoning,
bursting pipes, floods or electrical shorts. To see that these standards
are adhered to, we have plumbing codes and permits.
Although there are several model plumbing codes in print, regulations
regarding design, methods, and materials may differ from one state, county
or municipality to the next and will be spelled out clearly in local code
manuals (most use the Uniform Plumbing Code Book).
The main areas of code enforcement include:
The size of drain and vent pipes,
Size of supply lines,
Type of materials allowed,
Distance from trap to vent arm,
Slope of drain,
Height of drains above the floor,
Number and type of fixtures sharing a vent or drain pipe,
Height of horizontal section of vent pipe above gutter,
Distance between pipe supports,
Placement of cleanouts, and
Use of certain fittings, sanitary wyes, 45 degree bends, etc.
Contact your local town or county building department or inspector for a
copy of the codes and permits you will be required to follow as local
codes always supercede the model codes. Materials are of great controversy
and are constantly being updated. In some areas, plastic pipe is
prohibited entirely while in others it is permitted for the drain/waste
and vent system only. Some areas may require insulating your water pipes
or puffing vacuum breakers on your outside hose bibs. The list can go on
and on.
All areas are different and change quite often. Before beginning any work,
be sure your plans conform to all local codes and ordinances. Discuss your
plan's with the local building inspector and obtain the necessary permits
at the same time. Find out what work you may do yourself and what must be
done by a licensed plumber. Be certain to follow these codes to the letter
or you will run the risk of having to rip out all of your hard work.
Color Sets the Mood
Color is an important part of our environment, especially in the ways its
used to remodel our kitchens and bathroom .
Color is a free energy lift! says Rebecca Ewing of In Living Color,
Decatur, Ga. It tickles, delights and motivates us. Our attraction to
color is an energy boost that feeds and fuels us.
The National Kitchen & Bath Association (NKBA) recommends selecting colors
for your new kitchen or bath under lighting conditions in which theyll be
seen in your home. Also, when designing your space, remember that color
can be used to adjust the visual perception of an overall space, and
perceived size of a room. Cool, light and dull colors that keep contrast
to a minimum can expand a rooms dimensions to appear larger than it
actually is. While warm, dark, bright colors with several contrasts can
actually shrink a space in the minds eye.
Although white continues to be the number one color used for kitchen
appliances and bathroom fixtures, other colors are frequently used in
designing these two rooms. Take for instance
Yellow: the color that the eye sees that fastest. Soft yellows can be
cheering and make individuals feel sunny. Bright yellow used as an accent
that attracts attention and helps to brighten a room, but in large amounts
yellow can be over-stimulating.
Green: the ultimate pacifier. Often associated with nature. It is both
relaxing and reassuring. Pale yellow-greens conjure images of growth while
deep greens are associated with status and wealth.
Blue: arouses feelings of freshness, coolness and relaxation. In lighter
hues, blue is airy and open while dark blues represent wealth, strength
and respect evoking the feelings of reassurance in individuals.
Purple: a noble color in its deepest values, yet it can be flowery and
refreshing in pale violet colorings. Deep purple is rarely used in large
amounts, but is a great effect as an accent color.
Red: attracts attention, causes excitement, and even raise blood pressure.
Intense red is stimulating, however it can also be distracting in large
amounts. Red is associated with wealth and sophistication, while high
value reds (pinks) can make people feel good about the way they look.
Orange: stimulating in its pumpkin orange hue or warm in its terracotta
and peach version. As with other intense colors, orange can be
distracting, but it is ideal for attracting attention to details.
Black: evokes feelings of fright but also transcend the feelings of
elegance, excitement and wealth. Like white, black is a color of
contradictions that relies largely on the effect of the other colors used
with it. Black can make large spaces seem smaller and more intimate.
White: sterile, airy and refreshing, depending on what other colors it is
combined with, while making smaller spaces feel larger and more spacious.
The Color Marketing Group, consisting of over 600 professional color
designers, is predicting that the following 12 colors will be the color
trends for the new millennium.
Innocent Blush a sheer pink that envelops the viewer in softness and
comfort. Feminine and nurturing, this color has
slight peach undertones.
Biscotti a new neutral that is softer than the traditional carmel.
Wasabi inspired by Asia, where foliage is more yellow than in North
America and Europe. This sophisticated hue is a sheer wash of Celadon,
faintly yellowed, with a whisper of gray.
White Veil spoken of as natures white because of its coolness and
lack of purity are natural.
Aluminum Foil - the coldest and most urban interpretation of silver yet.
Colorado Mist whether metallic or pearlized, bridges beige and gray.
It is described as a warm silver that is both Zen and urban.
Spaqua the green side of water imagery, this hue is similar to the
edge color of a thick sheet of plate glass.
Aero Blue a timeless and spiritual color. Represented as a sky
approaching dusk.
Atlantis Blue a universal blue for all cultures. Atlantis is intense
and iridescent, the slight influence of green adds a unique spark that
slightly stirs the psyche.
Royal Plum expands the purple palette with coloring that is acceptable
for all markets. In its deep hue, royal plum can serve as a neutral, a
bridge to other colors, or it can stand alone.
Wild Berry a pure, nearly true, bright red.
Red Rock an Australian-influenced metallic color that will generate a
re-introduction of iron ore hues.
NKBA recommends that color selections be made under lighting conditions
that are representative of the conditions under which they will be used.
This is an important fact to keep in mind when choosing the color for your
kitchen and/or bath.With so many things to consider about planning and
styling your new room, you may require a little assistance.
You have probably realized by now that you
can't go it alone. You'll need the help of a kitchen and/or bathroom
professional. The NKBA can provide you with a list of member firms,
including Certified Kitchen Designers (CKDs) and Certified Bathroom
Designers (CBDs). These are the professionals to consult when planning
your new space. Not only can they design the layout of the space and
supervise the installation, they can also help you to achieve a room that
fits your style.
Reprinted with permission by the National Kitchen and Bath Association
Plumbing Inspections
Your plumbing work may require inspections at several different stages
from the rough to the finished work. Inspection officers can be tough on
plumbing as faulty work can cause health problems if raw sewage leaks out.
Also, a licensed plumber may be required to attach your pipes to the
public sewer line and water supply.
Usually the plumbing is inspected in the rough and finished plumbing
stages. The code office may require that you fill both supply and waste
system with water or air under a specified pounds per square inch of
pressure to check leaks. They will check the entire waste system for:
Size of pipes and pressure rating,
Number of fixtures on a drain or vent pipe,
Slope of pipe,
Leaks,
Fittings used in an improper way
Height of drains,
Height of the horizontal runs of the vent pipes, and
Air gap fitting on dishwasher waste line.
They will also check the supply system for:
Leaks
Vacuum breaks on outside hose bibb valves,
Size of pipes,
Galvanized pipe touching copper pipe, and
Air cushions (chambers) installed on supply lines to prevent banging.
CAUTION: Never cover your rough plumbing pipes until they have been
inspected.
Plumbing Projects - Drain Waste Vent System
Most Common Mistakes
1. Violating or ignoring code restrictions,
2. Not installing D/W/V with at least a 1/4" slope per one foot pipe,
3. Not properly venting or trapping all fixtures,
4. Attaching too many fixtures to a drain or vent pipe,
5. Using pipes that are too small,
6. Not providing enough cleanouts or not providing cleanouts at the
prescribed places,
7. Venting the fixture too far from the fixture's trap,
8. Not properly aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the
nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is
at an angle will cause a leak.)
9. Using a fitting in a wrong position,
10. Installing rough plumbing in the wrong location,
11. Reducing pipe size as the pipes run downstream,
12. Cutting pipe too long and not allowing for the ridge in the fittings,
and
13. Forcing the trap and waste arm fittings out of alignment and putting
too much stress on the nuts and washers in the tubing. Make certain the
compression tubing is put in the fittings so that it is evenly tightened.
Installing Drain Waste Vent Pipe
Running the pipe can be tricky. All different kinds of fittings are
available to turn in different and receive different sizes of pipe at
various angles. One fitting may need 3 opening ports, all accommodating a
size pipe. You will have to plan your runs and buy the necessary fittings
(always get a few extra). Keep in mind that codes may regulate how
fittings can be used (i.e. sanitary tees may not be used in a vertical to
horizontal connections long sweep connection must be used here). You will
need to know the diameter of your pipes, their angles, the code and their
direction to determine each fitting. While planning may take some time and
study, the cutting and assembly of plastic pipe is very simple.
1. Using a back saw or a fine toothed saw, cut the pipe the required
length, remembering that the pipe fits into the fitting a prescribed
distance for each diameter of pipe.
2. Use a small knife or rough sandpaper to remove the "burr" off the
freshly cut pipe.
3. With a rag and some cleaning solvent, clean the ends of the pipe and
the inside of fitting where the pipe will join. (ABS does not need this
solvent or primer. It can be wiped clean with a damp rag.)
4. The glue will dry almost immediately and you can never get it unglued.
To change the connection you must cut out the fitting and start over.
Because of this, you want to be sure you have it right the first time.
This is very easy in some cases, but often
you will have a number of pipes coming into a fitting from several
different angles. All of these must meet correctly once they are
permanently glued. To assure this, "dry fit" the fittings and pipe by
cutting and assembling everything without glue to assure it all fits at
the correct angles and dimensions.
5. Make marks across fittings and pipe so that once the pipes are removed
and the glue is spread, you will know exactly how to realign everything
when the pipes are inserted permanently into the fitting. (Be sure the
marks or lines are long enough on the pipe so that they will not be
covered by the glue you will spread on the pipe.)
6. Spread a generous amount of the required pipe glue around the end of
the pipe and on the inside of the fitting with a dobber.
7. Insert the pipe into the fitting until it "bottoms out" and give it a
little twist to be sure that the glue is spread evenly. One of the most
difficult parts about running drain waste vent pipes is drilling the large
(2-3") holes necessary to run the pipe.
You will need to purchase, borrow or rent
special heavy duty plumbers' bits that are notched to fit 1 1/2", 2" and 2
1/2" pipe. The cheaper hole saw is just too difficult when you are doing a
large project. You will also need a heavy duty 1/2" or 3/4" drill
(preferably a right angle drill or one with a right angle attachment). Be
careful, as drilling with these large bits often causes the bit to bind
and the drill to spin.
Plumbing Projects - Water System Supply
Most Common Mistakes
1. Violating or ignoring code restrictions,
2. Using supply pipes that are too small,
3. Moving or knocking copper pipes while the newly sweated fittings are
still hot,
4. Creating fire hazards by leaving materials smoldering after sweating
fittings,
5. Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric
fitting between the two,
6. Not using Teflon tape or pipe compound at threaded pipe joints,
7. Not running pipes to correct locations, and
8. Trying to solder a pipe joint when the water has not been completely
drained. (Be certain the main valve is turned off and that the
supply lines are drained at the lowest point of the house, at the
tub/shower and at the sinks. Flush all toilets.)
9. If you drain the lines at the outside hose valve, this is best. Just be
sure this valve is fed from the house main rather than from the well or
city water main.)
10. When turning the water back on in your home, always run the outside
hose valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines.
This debris can cause problems in your sink faucets and other plumbing
trim.
Joining Copper Pipe
You will need to purchase your copper
fittings in accordance with the joining method you will be using.
Soldering is the method used to join hard copper pipes together. For this
you will require a small butane or propane torch, 00 steel wool or emery
cloth, a wire pipe brush, a can of soldering flux and some solid core wire
solder. Check you local code * for the wire solder required in your area.
Some require 50/50 which is 50% tin and 50% lead which is stronger than
60/40 for a better joint connection. Others use lead free
Measuring and Cutting Copper Pipe
To determine the length of copper pipe, you will need to measure the
distance between the fittings and add the distance the pipe will extend
into each fitting. Keep in mind that pipe insert distances will vary for
various types of joints. Although usually 1/2" pipe will insert 1/2" and a
3/4" pipe inserts 3/4". Copper pipe can be cut with a pipe cutter that has
a blade designed for cutting copper.
Use the cutter by placing the pipe into the opening and twist the knob
until the cutting wheel just pierces the copper pipe. Then rotate the
cutter around the pipe, tightening the knob after each revolution, until
the pipe snaps in two. After you have cut the pipe, use the special blade
on the tubing cutter to ream out the "burr" on the inside of the newly cut
pipe.
Tip: Whether using hard or soft copper tubing, take care not to
damage it as you work. Cover the jaws of wrenches or vices with
electrician's tape.
Soldering
1. Drain the pipes completely for any water in the pipes will interfere
with a successful soldering job. Turn off the main water supply valve and
open a faucet at the low end of the pipes. Usually an outside hose bibb
works best.
Hint. Once the water has drained out, stuff some plain white bread
into the pipe near the fitting you are about to solder to absorb any
remaining moisture. Once you turn the water on again, the bread will
disintegrate.
2. Use the steel wool, emery cloth or very fire sandpaper to polish the
last inch of the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting down to
the shoulder. Wire pipe brushes that clean both the outside of the pipe
and the inside of the fittings, are also available in both 1/2 and 3/4
inch sizes. It is important that you clean both fitting and pipe
thoroughly. Time spent on this step will save time later fixing leaking
joints. It is much easier to do it right the first time.
3. Apply flux around the polished inside of the fitting and around the
polished outside of the pip end. (Some solders are available that contain
the flux within the solder.)
4. Place the fitting on the pipe, twisting back and forth a couple of
times to assure even distribution of the flux.
5. Heat the bottom of the pipe first with the propane torch. Slowly pass
the torch back and forth across the fitting to distribute the heat evenly.
Take care not to get the fitting too hot because the flux will burn away
to nothing. You can tell the joint is hot enough when the soldering wire
will melt easily on contact with it and not stick. By touching the
soldering wire to the joint occasionally as you heat it, you can avoid
overheating. The moment the wire melts, the joint is ready.
6. Remove the torch and touch the soldering wire to the edge of the
fitting. The solder should pull in between the fitting and the pipe by
capillary action. Continue to solder until a line of molten solder shows
all the way around the fitting. Be certain there are no air gaps between
the solder and the pipe fitting.
7. Wipe off the excess surface solder with a damp rag before it
solidifies, leaving a trace of solder showing in the crevice between
fitting and pipe.
Caution! Keep your hands well away from the hot joint and take care
not to bump or move the newly soldered joint until it has cooled.
Air Chambers or Cushions
Installing a supply stop valve
Often pipes will bang when a faucet or valve is suddenly cut off. This can
damage the pipe and is irritating to live with. The banging is caused
because water does not compress when its flow is suddenly stopped. To
prevent this, we recommend installing manufactured air chambers, or shock
absorbers, into the hot and cold supply lines at each fixture. These
contain inert gas and bellows that absorb the shock. These manufactured
products work better than using a one foot length of copper pipe as these
must be drained every few years. These fittings may need to be replaced or
have parts within them replaced on a regular schedule.
Plumbing Projects - Toilet
Plumbing for Your Toilet
Here we offer general instructions and precautions for roughing in, as
well as installation procedures for tying into your present drain waste
vent and supply systems. When all the roughing in has been completed and
you are ready to assemble your toilet, your rough plumbing should resemble
that shown here.
Most Common Mistakes
1. Violating or ignoring local code restrictions.
2. Using pipes that are too small.
3. Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric
fitting between the two.
4. Not using Teflon tape or pipe compound at threaded joints.
5. Not leveling your fixtures when installing them.
6. Not installing an air gap filling for fixtures.
7. Cutting supply stub outs too short to install the shutoff valves onto
after the finished wall is in place, or
8. Not properly aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the
nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle
will cause a leak.)
9. When turning the water back on in your home, always run the outside
hose valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines.
This debris can cause problems in your sink faucets and other plumbing
trim.
Installing your Toilet
Pipes required include a cold water supply stub out with a shutoff valve,
flexible tubing for above the valve, and possibly one air chamber. This is
possibly the single, most troublesome fixture to install as it requires
its own 2" minimum vent and a drain of at least 3" in diameter. If the
toilet is situated on a branch drain, it cannot be upstream from the sink
or shower. The minimum side distance allowed from the center of the toilet
bowl to a wall is 15 inches 12 inches to a bathtub, and clearance from the
front of a bowl to a wall or fixture should be 21 inches.
1. The closet bend and toilet floor flange must be roughed in first. When
replacing a toilet, you will need to scrape up the old wax gasket. A putty
knife works well for this. Remove the old bolts from the floor flange and
scrape the flange clean to prevent leaks at the base of the new bowl. If
the old flange is cracked or broken, replace it with a new floor flange.
2. Position the floor flange so that the underside of the flange is at the
level of the finished floor. (it is always best to install the finished
floor so that it runs underneath the toilet.) You may need to use a piece
of finished flooring material if the floor has not yet been installed. Now
you can finish tightening the screws that hold the floor flange to the
floor. Put a small level on the flange while tightening to be sure it is
level.
3. Set the new floor bolts in plumber's putty and insert them through the
flange, adjusting the bolts so they line up with the center of the
drainpipe.
4. With the new toilet bowl turned upside down, position the new wax
gasket over the toilet horn on the bottom of the bowl.
5. Apply plumber's putty around the entire bottom edge of the bowl.
6. Using the bolts as guides, lower the bowl into place over the flange.
Press down firmly while giving a slight twist. It is important that you
feel the toilet being pushed into the wax ring. If you do not feel this,
the flange is set too low and you will not get a good wax seal between the
flange and the horn (waste outlet). Also, if the wax ring is cold, it will
not properly seat. You may need to warm it in the sun for awhile until it
is pliable.
7. Use a level to level the bowl, adding shims where necessary. Also be
sure the toilet is square and aligned with the wall. Then tighten the nuts
and washers onto the bolts by hand.
8. Place the rubber tank cushion (if one is needed) into position on the
rear of the bowl and fit the rubber gasket onto the flush valve opening on
the bottom of the tank.
9. Position the tank over the bowl; then tighten the nuts and washers onto
the mounting bolts.
10. Tighten the hold-down bolts at the base of the bowl with an adjustable
wrench. Use your level to assure the bowl is still level.
11. Fill the decorative caps with plumber's putty and place them over the
bolt ends. Seal the base of the toilet bowl with plumber's putty or
silicone caulk.
12. Cut the end of your supply line stub out and attach a shut off valve.
Then, connect the shutoff valve to the flexible tubing and connect the
tubing to the bottom of the tank, where you will find a supply stub out.
Plumbing Projects - Bathroom Sink
Here we offer general instructions and precautions for roughing in, as
well as installation procedures for tying into your present drain waste
vent and supply systems. When all the roughing in has been completed and
you are ready to assemble your bathroom sink, your rough plumbing should
resemble that shown here.
Most Common Mistakes
Violating or ignoring local code restrictions,
1. Using pipes that are too small,
2. Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric
fitting between the two,
3. Not using Teflon tape or pipe compound at threaded joints,
4. Not leveling your fixtures when installing them,
5. Not installing an air gap filling for fixtures,
6. Cutting supply stub outs too short to install the shutoff valves onto
after the finished wall is in place, or
7. Not properly aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the
nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle
will cause a leak.)
8. When turning the water back on in your home, always run the outside
hose valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines.
This debris can cause problems in your sink faucets and other plumbing
trim.
Installing your Bathroom Sink
Pipes required for roughing in the bathroom sink include hot and cold
supply stubouts, shutoff valves, transition fittings, and possibly
flexible tubing for above the shutoff valves. Air chambers may also be
required. If you are installing the bathroom sink in a back to back
arrangement, little pipe is required. Since a sink rates low in fixture
units, it should have little effect on the present drain's efficiency.
Refer to the fixture unit chart in the Uniform Plumbing Code Book. This
fixture can often be wet vented if it is within the critical distance. If
not, it must be back vented in some areas.
Clearance from the side of a bathroom sink to a toilet tank or finished
wall should be at least 4 inches while distance to a tub may be as little
as two inches. There must also be a minimum of 21 inches from the front
edge to a wall or fixture. When cutting the capped supply lines to install
your shut off valves, cut the 1/2" copper supply line at least 1 1/2
inches from the finished wall to allow for an escutcheon and shut off
valve compression nut and ring.
1. Cut carefully and slowly so as not to compress the pipe with the cutter
wheel or flatten the pipe. The compression ring and nut will only tighten
on a round pipe.
2. Assemble the faucet according to the directions on the package.
3. Slip on the escutcheon, the coupling nut, the compression ring and the
valve. Hold the valve outlet up and slide it over the compression ring.
4. Tighten down the coupling nut onto the valve using two crescent
wrenches. It will usually squeak when it is properly seated.
5. Connect the trap to the drain body and the drain pipe.
6. When water pressure is restored, run water into the basin and check for
any leaks
Plumbing Projects - Shower and Bathtub
Here we offer general instructions and precautions for roughing in, as
well as installation procedures for tying into your present drain waste
vent and supply systems. When all the roughing in has been completed and
you are ready to assemble your shower and bathtub, your rough plumbing
should resemble that shown here.
Most Common Plumbing Mistakes
Violating or ignoring local code restrictions,
Using pipes that are too small,
Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric
fitting between the two,
Not using Teflon tape or pipe compound at threaded joints,
Not leveling your fixtures when installing them,
Not installing an air gap filling for fixtures,
Cutting supply stub outs too short to install the shutoff valves onto
after the finished wall is in place, or
Not properly aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the
nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle
will cause a leak.)
When turning the water back on in your home, always run the outside hose
valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This
debris can cause problems in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.
Installing your Shower and Bathtub
Pipes required include the hot and cold supply lines and a pipe leading to
a shower head. A mixing valve and shower head are also needed. Air
chambers may be required. Bath/shower fixtures also rate low in fixture
units and are often positioned on branch drains and wet or back vented as
are the sinks. Both shower stalls and tubs enter the stack at floor level
or below because of the position of the floor drain trap.
The faucet and shower head assembly require an open wall for installation.
Remember bathtubs and shower stalls may require support framing. A bathtub
filled with water is extremely heavy so check building codes and framing
support before installing the tub. The minimum floor area required for a
shower stall is 1,024 square inches, and you should allow 24 inches from
the stall itself to any other fixture or wall.
1. Install all piping before installing the tub itself.
2. Lower the tub into place so that the continuous flange fits against the
wall studs and rests on 1 x 4 or 2 x supports. Anchor the tub to the
enclosure with nails or screws inserted through the flanges into the
studs.
3. Assemble the drain connections by connecting the tub overflow with the
tub drain ABOVE the trap, not beyond it. The trap will have a compression
fitting that screws over the arm of the overflow assembly.
4. Hot and cold water lines are run to the tub/shower mixing valve where
they are attached, usually by, sweating these directly into the hot and
cold ports of the mixing valve.
5. Run a pipe up the wall for the shower head. On the top of this pipe,
sweat on a brass female threaded winged fitting that is nailed or screwed
into a framing support.
6. Extend a piece of 1/2" pipe, according to the manufacturer's
instructions, for the tub spout. Sweat on a male threaded fitting at the
end of the pipe or use a brass nipple of the proper length and a 1/2" cap.
7. At this time you will need to have your rough plumbing inspected.
8. Restore water pressure and check the drain connection and the supply
pipes for any leaks.
9. Replace the wall with moisture resistant drywall as a base for your
wall covering. Seal joints between the wall and your new tub with silicone
caulk as protection against water seepage.
10. Install the Spout, handles and shower head. The shower head screws
onto the shower arm stub out. Whether installing a new shower head or
replacing an old one, always clean the pipe threads and apply new pipe
joint compound, Teflon tape or both to prevent leaks.
A Very Disposable Tip About Garbage Disposers
For the most part, garbage disposals are self-cleaning and virtually
maintenance free. However, a malfunctioning garbage disposal can mean a
messy headache, but one that can be avoided. Here are some ideas to keep
your unit in good working order. Always run cold water when grinding in
order to move the waste all the way through the drain lines. Fats and
grease congeal and harden in cold water which can then be flushed through
the system. Don't use hot water when grinding because it can dissolve fats
and grease, which may then accumulate in the drainline. Almost all
biodegradable food waste can be fed into disposals.
However, do not throw down the disposal clam
or oyster shells, corn husks or other material with a high fiber content.
Under no circumstances should you put glass, plastic or metal non-food
materials through a disposal. This includes bottle caps, tin covers or
aluminum foil--these are some of the items service technicians commonly
find in clogged or broken disposals. Maintenance is easy. Grinding small
bones and egg shells actually helps clean the disposal by scraping away
stubborn deposits or citric acid and pulp. Grinding a little ice is
another way to clean out deposits and get rid of odors.
How to Install a Kitchen Sink
When redecorating your kitchen, don't forget to replace the sink. A new
sink can beautifully accent the kitchen and give it a whole new look.
Instead of looking at that old, outdated sink, you can install a new sink
with just the right colors to accent your redecorated kitchen. When
installing a kitchen sink, there are many different decisions that need to
be made.
Even the simplest of sinks are available in
different types, styles and colors so choosing the perfect one for your
kitchen is not quite as easy as you may think. Regardless of the type that
you choose for your kitchen, the installation is nearly the same for each
sink.
Styles & Materials: Consider the space available to you and the
style of sink that would be preferable for it. Most sinks are made in
either single-bowl or double-bowl styles, but triple-bowls are also
available. Consider a triple-bowl if you need extra room for pots and
pans. Triple-bowls are also beneficial if you wish to have an extra sink
specifically for your garbage disposal. The third sink is usually smaller
to take up less space, while still separating your garbage disposal from
your dishes. When choosing a sink size and type, keep in mind exactly what
are your kitchen sink needs.
A more expensive surface finish is enameled cast iron which is a very
heavy, durable material. The enamel finish is available in an array of
colors to accent any kitchen.
Most stainless steel or enameled cast iron sinks are available in 18
gauge, 20 gauge, or 22 gauge, depending on your needs. All are equipped
with holes for the assembly of faucet and other accessories.
Types of Sinks: The most commonly
used sinks are self-rimming sinks and surface-mounted sinks. The
self-rimming sink has its own rim which is built into the sink itself,
whereas the surface-mounted sink must be attached by a separate metal rim
and tightening screws. Both types are similar in installation and fairly
easy to install. One type of sink which is slightly more difficult to
install is the undermount, also known as recessed, sink. This sink
eliminates the upper ring, so food and debris can be wiped directly into
the sink. When installing an undermount sink, it is important to pay close
attention to the size of the hole you are sawing to avoid water leaks.
Tools and Materials You Need:
Sink of choice
Strainer assembly, faucet and accessories of choice
Pencil
Drill
Saber saw (or hand saw and keyhole saw)
Plumber's putty
Supply tubing
Flat wrenches
Step 1: Trace an Opening on the Countertop: Begin by marking your
countertop for cut out. Most kitchen sinks are installed directly into the
countertop or the existing plywood if you plan to install tile around the
sink. When tracing your opening on the plywood or countertop, leave at
least 1 1/2 inches on the front edge of the sink.
Remember that if your countertop is wider
than 24 inches, you should leave more than 1 1/2 inches depending on the
size of the countertop, but do not leave more that 3 to 4 inches. Once the
sink is positioned in a preferable spot, trace around the edge of the
sink. After removing the sink, draw a line 3/8-inch to 1/2-inch inside the
traced outline of the sink.
Caution: The easiest method to ensure the correct size opening
for the sink is to place the sink upside down on the countertop or plywood
sheet and trace around the outer edge of the sink. If you are installing a
surface-mounted sink, use the metal rim as the template to trace around.
Step 2: Cut the Sink Hole: Now you are ready to cut the opening for the
sink. Drill 4 holes, one in each corner inside the inner line. These holes
will be starting points for the sawing, so they must be large enough to
fit the blade of a saber saw. Once your holes are drilled, saw along the
inner line between each hole with a saber saw. Since the rim of the sink
will cover the sawed edges, it is not necessary for the edges to be
perfectly straight. Pay close attention to staying close to the inner line
while sawing to ensure correct placement of the sink. Remember to attach
the faucet and sink accessories to the sink before sink installation.
Tip: If a saber saw is not available to you, a hand saw will work
just as well for the straight edged sawing and a keyhole saw will work for
the curved edges.
Step 3: Insert the Sink: Apply a layer of plumber's putty around the rim
of the sink. Use sealant if included with the sink. Position the sink in
the hole and press down firmly. After the sink is positioned and securely
in place, you can attach the faucet to the plumbing source. Using a length
of supply tubing, attach the faucet to each angle stop. Once the faucet is
connected, tighten each nut with a flat wrench.
Step 4: Assemble and Attach the Drain: Finally, install the drain piece
into the sink. Distribute plumber's putty along the edge of the drain
opening and press the strainer body into place. Once the drain is
correctly in position, tighten the locknut with a wrench. By following the
manufacturer's directions, assemble the p-trap and connect it to the drain
opening. You will want to use two slip nuts to connect the assembled piece
to the drain stub out. Once the assembled drain is in place, tighten the
nuts firmly by hand.
Tip: While tightening with a wrench, hold the drain steady with a pliers
the keep the strainer from turning out of place
Faucet Basics
IMPORTANT: Read this before you start
Introduction
Faucets are available in an ever-increasing variety of types and styles,
no matter if they are for the kitchen or bathroom. Aside from the standard
chrome faucet with compression type valves, there are also faucets that
use ball valves, cartridges and even ceramic discs, all available in
stainless steel, brass, or colored enamel finishes.
Choosing the right faucet may seem confusing, but it really boils down to
just three considerations, size, finish, and function. Size refers to how
the holes are configured on your sink as well as general considerations of
whether or not the handles will have enough room to swing around. The
finish, aside from what you think looks good, is best evaluated by the
length of any guarantee the manufacturer offers. Finally, function refers
to the method in which the faucet operates; one or two valves, or a
levered operation.
Before you start...
Caution: Make sure to wear safety glasses when working under the
sink as bits of rust and metal can fall into your eyes as you are working.
Helpful Tips: Before doing any work on your faucet make sure to close
the drain so small parts do not fall in it.
Helpful Tips: When choosing a faucet, especially a shower/bath faucet,
choose handles that can be easily griped and turned with soapy hands.
Round, sleek handles may look nice until your hand slips trying to turn
off water that is too hot.
Helpful Tips: If your faucet or shower pressure is low or uneven, try
cleaning the aerator or showerhead. Just unscrew it, take it apart being
careful to keep track of the parts and their order, and clean any grit out
of the showerhead. Then reassemble and reinstall it.
Learning Tips
1. The basic parts of a faucet are as
follows; the tail piece (a), The distance between tail pieces (b), the
mounting nut (c) to hold the faucet to the sink, the supply tube (d) for
supplying the water to the faucet, the shutoff valve (e) where the supply
of water to the faucet can be turned off before commencing repairs, the
aerator (f) mixes the water coming out of the spout with air to prevent
splashing, the control valve (g) detailed in the next four steps, controls
the flow of water out of the spout.
2. Faucets with compression valves are almost always made with separate
hot and cold valves. What distinguishes a compression valve from other
types is that it will have a rubber washer at its base that compresses
against a valve seat to shut off the water. Often this action of the
washer compressing against the valve seat can be felt as a slight increase
in turning resistance as you shut off the water. To repair a compression
type valve you most likely will have to replace the rubber parts or
replace/resurface the valve seat.
3. Faucets with Ball-type valves are found on single handle faucets.
Typically, a ball valves action is like a car stick shift only with left
and right motions controlling the hot and cold and front and back to
control the flow. Repair involves replacing the rubber parts, which are
typically sold in kits. Sometimes you may need more than a repair kit as
some moving parts that not included in repair kits, such as the ball, can
also cause leaks from wear.
4. Faucets with cartridge type valves are available in both single and
double handle styles. The double handle styles operate just like
compression valves with the exception that the action is completely
consistent with no need to apply any extra pressure when closing the valve
as you do sometimes with compression valves.
The action for single handle faucets
resembles that of ball valves except that the flow is controlled by
raising or lowering the handle, instead of pushing it front or back.
Repair of these valves involves replacing the entire cartridge. This is
convenient as the cartridge often contains all the parts subject to wear.
However, it should be noted that the cartridge could also be expensive.
5. Faucets with ceramic discs are a relatively recent development. Their
operation is virtually indistinguishable from cartridge type valves,
however because of the durable materials used, if there are problems you
should only have to take them apart and clean the parts to repair leaks.
6. There are three basic hole configurations for mounting faucets on
sinks. The most popular configuration is two holes that are four inches
apart on center (measured from the center of the holes, see "a") with a
center hole between them (three holes total). Another similar
configuration is two holes eight inches apart on center with a center hole
between them (often called a spread set configuration). Finally, there
might be just a single hole, a common configuration for newer sinks and
faucets.
7. Working on faucets requires some specialized tools. Aside from the
usual wrenches and pliers that can be found in most toolboxes, you should
also have a basin wrench (a) for turning faucet mounting nuts from under a
sink, a set of deep sockets (b) for removing shower/bath valves, a seat
wrench (c) for unscrewing valve seats, a seat-dressing tool (d) for
resurfacing non removable seats, and a handle puller (e) to safely remove
handles that are stuck.
How to Install a Faucet
When redecorating or modernizing your kitchen, don't forget the faucets.
The beauty of a new faucet can bring a modern look to any kitchen. Modern
faucets are very different from those made years ago. Since they have
acquired many more parts, they have become slightly more difficult to
install. Although the process can be confusing, the modern sinks are much
more durable and last longer so it is worth your while. In addition, the
many different parts on the modern faucet working together result in fewer
leaking problems. This is a project that anyone can do.
Types: The 2 main faucet types most commonly used are compression faucets
and mixing faucets. The compression faucet has a handle that gives water
pressure by twisting on and off. It is usually seen in hose bibs, which
are outdoor faucets, washing machine hookups, and dual-handled sink
fixtures. The modern type is the mixing faucet or the washer less faucet.
It has a lever or knob that controls water flow and temperature.
The mixing faucet is more durable than the
compression faucet so it has become more frequently used. This type is
used for sinks, bathtubs, showers and wash basins. Faucet Variations: If
you are buying a new faucet without supply yubing, buy two supply tubes of
either braided steel or vinyl mesh to be attached to the faucet. You can
also use BP plastic or chromed copper for supply tubing, or just buy a
faucet that comes with pre-attached copper supply tubes, which connect
directly to the water supply.
Tools and Materials You Need:
Penetrating oil
Basin wrench or channel-type pliers
Putty knife
Caulk gun
Adjustable wrenches
Faucet of choice (including sink sprayer)
Silicone caulk or plumber's putty
Two flexible supply tubes
Removing the Old Faucet
Step 1: Remove Coupling Nuts: Turn off the water before you begin. Using
penetrating oil, spray the tailpiece mounting nuts and coupling nuts to
loosen them for detaching. Using a basin wrench or channel-type pliers,
remove the coupling nuts. Turn off the water before you begin. Using
penetrating oil, spray the tailpiece mounting nuts and coupling nuts to
loosen them for detaching. Using a basin wrench or channel-type pliers,
remove the coupling nuts.
Step 2: Unscrew Tailpiece: Use a basin wrench or channel-type pliers to
unscrew the tailpiece mounting nuts and remove the faucet.
Step 3: Clean the Surface: After removing the faucet, scrape away the old
putty from the surface of the sink with a putty knife.
Installing New Faucet with Separate Supply Tubing
Step 1: Insert the Faucet: Insert the new faucet into the sink's holes.
Using either silicone caulk or plumber's putty, apply a bead 1/4-inch
thick to the base of the faucet as seen in figure 3. Attach the faucet to
the sink making sure the base is parallel to the back of the sink. Press
the faucet down firmly so that it is sealed tightly to the sink. Wipe the
excess caulk from the surface of the faucet after it has been pressed into
place.
Step 2: Tighten the Nuts: Connect the metal friction washers and then the
mounting nuts to the tailpiece using a basin wrench or channel-type
pliers.
Step 3: Attach the Tubing: Attach the supply tubes to the tailpiece and
use a basin wrench or channel-type pliers to tighten the coupling nuts.
Step 4: Connect the Water Source: When the supply tubing is attached to
the sink, connect it to the water source at the shutoff valves using
compression fittings. Tighten the nuts by hand then, using an adjustable
wrench, tighten the nuts 1/4 of a turn. This will ensure that the nuts are
not on too tight.
Tip: When tightening the supply tubing to the valve, hold the valve with
another wrench to keep it from turning out of place.
Installing Faucet with Pre-attached Tubing
Step 1: Install the Faucet: Follow the same instructions as you would when
installing a faucet with separate tubing. It is not necessary to connect
tubing to the faucet since it is already pre-attached, so leave out.
Step 2: Connect Supply Tubing: Using a basin wrench or channel-type
pliers, connect the pre-attached supply tubes to the shutoff valves. The
tubing labeled red connects to the hot water source and the tubing labeled
blue connects to the cold water source.
Attaching a Sink Sprayer
Step 1: Insert Sprayer: Using plumber's putty or silicone caulk, apply a
bead 1/4 inch thick to the base of the sprayer. Insert the end of the
sprayer hose into the sink opening and press the sprayer into place.
Step 2: Attach Mounting Nut: Screw the mounting nut onto the tailpiece of
the sprayer after placing a washer over the tailpiece. Tighten the
mounting nut with a basin wrench or channel-type pliers and remove the
extra putty from the base of the sprayer.
Step 3: Attach the Hose to the Faucet: Connect the hose to the hose nipple
found on the bottom of the faucet. Using a basin wrench or channel-type
pliers, tighten the screw 1/4 of a turn.
How To Replace a Faucet
Faucets are replaced for a variety of reasons. There are several things to
look out for when choosing a new faucet. The hole patterns of your old
faucet should match the pattern of the new faucet. If there is any doubt
about the pattern, take the old faucet with you or measure carefully for
the hole placement.
Step 1 . Cut water supply off at the shut off valves. These are usually
under the sink; if not cut the water off to the home from outside at the
main water valve.
Step 2 . Remove the supply lines with a crescent wrench. Some water is
left in the lines so a catch basin or bucket will be needed.
Step 3 . With the supply lines disconnected, you can now remove the faucet
by releasing the nuts under the counter top. Use a basin wrench to do this
because it is a tight area to work in. If the nuts are difficult to remove
use penetrating oil to loosen the nuts. Disconnect the other end of the
supply lines and lift the faucet out after removing the nuts.
Note: The pop-up stopper in the sink will need to be disconnected
before removing the faucet. The three most common assemblies are:
1. Those that sit on top of the pivot rod and simply lift out.
2. Those that require a twist to free them because of a slot that hooks
the body to the arm.
3. Stoppers that are attached with a pivot rod. The pivot rod is released
by loosening a clevis screw on the lift rod assembly. Know which type of
stopper you have. It is a good idea to draw a diagram when disconnecting
the stopper to help with the reassembly.
Step 4 . Apply Teflon tape to prevent leaks at each new nipple. Check the
new faucet for a gasket. If the new faucet does not have a gasket, use
plumber's putty to create a seal.
Step 5 . Replace the basin nuts and attach the supply lines. Check the
seat of the lines. Make sure the brass washer is in good shape and fits
down properly before tightening the supply line nuts.
Salvaging that Unreplaceable Faucet Stem
I have an outside shower that the family uses all summer long. The faucet
stems are old and the flat ends (that support the washer) have broken and
present a partial flat end thereby making it impossible to place even
pressure on the washer and seat. Therefore the darned thing leaks no
matter how often the washers are replaced and replaced and replaced!
Drilling a hole in the middle of a penny (pennies are NOT considered legal
tender, so this is a lawful act) and screwing the penny into the stem
firmly, makes it easy to grind it on a grinding wheel to the appropriate
size.
I then use acid flux to sweat-solder the penny in position using a
torch for heat. Use a steel screw to hold the penny in position for the
soldering job. The solder won't hold to the screw so it will come out
after the whole thing cools down. You can then use the typical brass screw
to mount the washer. This helpful article was provided by DoItYourself.com
community member Walter Kast.
If you are interested in sharing your do-it-yourself knowledge
Repair a Leaky Washer-Type Faucet
If you're not into water torture, then you probably can't stand the drip,
drip, drip of a leaky faucet. Fortunately, you don't need to call a
plumber to save you. These steps detail how to fix the leak in a
washer-type faucet in no time.
Washer-type faucets work with a rubber or composition washer that closes
onto a metal washer seat When the washer becomes hardened, worn or the
washer seat wears, it causes the faucet to leak. You can close the faucet
tighter to stop the leaking temporarily, but this increases the internal
damage to the faucet.
Here's how to fix it.
Step 1. Turn off the Water: If there's a shutoff valve beneath the
fixture, turn off the water at that point. Otherwise, turn it off at the
main house shutoff valve in the basement, utility room, or crawlspace.
Turn off the hot water supply at the water heater.
Step 2. Take the Faucet Apart: Start by removing the handle (this may not
be necessary on some older faucets). Loosen the Phillips-head screw, which
usually is beneath a decorative cap in the center of the handle. The cap
either unscrews or snaps off when you pry it with a knife blade.
Next, lift or pry the handle off its broached stem. Unscrew the packing
nut beneath the handle, exposing the rest of the stem. Remove the stem by
rotating it in the "on" direction. It will thread out. Reinstall the
handle if you have difficulty turning it . Clean chips from the faucet
cavity, but do not use harsh abrasives or a file.
Tip: If you must use pliers on decorative faucet parts, pad them with
electrical tape or cloth to protect the finish. And take special care with
the plastic parts found on many modern faucets.
Step 3. Examine the Stem: If the threads are badly corroded or worn, take
it to your retailer and get a new stem to match. Clean the stem if it's
dirty.
Step 4. Check the Washer: The washer is located on the lower end of the
stem and held in place by a brass screw. If the washer is squeezed flat or
has a groove worn in it, replace it - this should stop any dripping. Take
the washer to your True Value store or dealer to ensure an exact match in
size and style. If the brass screw is damaged, replace it with a new brass
screw.
Tip: It's important to install the correct type of faucet washer. A
swiveling washer is preferable to either A or B. To install washer style
C, file the shoulder off the end of the stem, drill out the threads of the
screw hole. Instead of rubbing against the seat as it closes, a swiveling
washer closes with a straight-down, frictionless action - this allows it
to outlast fixed washers.
Step5. Look at Washer Seat: Any faucet that needs frequent washer
replacement usually has a damaged seat. The washer seat is located inside
the faucet body. The seat should either be refaced with a seat-dressing
tool or replaced:
Replace Washer Seat: Some washer seats can be unthreaded and replaced.
Check the faucet body with a flashlight to see if it has a square or
hexagonal hole through its center or is slotted for a screwdriver; if so,
it is replaceable. (However, if the seat simply has a round hole through
its center and no slots, it is not replaceable. In this case, reface it
with a seat-dressing tool.)
To replace it, you'll need a faucet seat wrench, which comes with a
combination of square and hex heads to fit most faucet seats. Turn the
washer seat counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten. Add a little
silicone rubber sealant (RTV) or pipe joint compound around the threads of
the seat before you install it to make it easier to remove during future
repairs.
Reface Washer Seat: A seat-dressing tool is not costly and every home with
washer-type faucets needs one. Use the tool according to the
manufacturer's directions, placing it in the faucet along with the packing
nut. Then rotate until the seat is smooth, and blow out the chips.
Step 6. Put Back Together: Following this seat and washer service, your
faucet should be like new. Put the parts back together in the reverse
order of taking them apart. Spread a bit of petroleum jelly or silicone
grease on the threads of the stem to lubricate the faucet's action.
Step 7. If Faucet Leaks Around the Stem: If your faucet is leaking around
the stem rather than from the spigot, install new packing. You may want to
install one of the newer nylon-covered or graphite-impregnated packings -
their lubrication allows the faucet handle to turn more freely.
Wrap one turn of this packing around the stem just beneath the packing
nut. Use three complete wraps if you're applying string-type packing. Some
stems use O-rings, rather than packing. For these stems, replace the
O-ring with a matching one to stop a leak. Hand tighten the packing nut,
then tighten it another half-turn.
Tools and Materials:
Smooth-jaw adjustable wrench
Screwdrivers, standard and Phillips
Pliers
Faucet washers
Brass screws
Stem
Silicone grease or petroleum jelly
Seat dressing tool or Seat & Seat wrench
Silicone rubber sealant or pipe compound
Socket wrench
Packing
Cleaning cloths
Hand cleaner
Filtering Faucets Offer Convenience and Clean Water
By: Paul Bianchina
Many people are concerned about what's in the water they drink, but until
recently, there have only been two options: bottled water or bulky home
filtration systems. Within the last couple of years, however, at least two
of the major faucet manufacturers -- Moen and Price Pfister -- have
combined in-home filtration with the convenience of a standard kitchen
faucet. Know as "filtering faucets," both of these units are attractive,
easy-to-use faucets that are designed to replace almost any standard
sink-mounted kitchen faucet. The faucets from both manufacturers -- Moen's
"Pure Touch" and Price Pfister's "Pfilter Pfaucet" -- are top-quality
single-handle units with a pull-out faucet head and are available in
chrome and white. The Moen faucet is also available in almond.
Both units operate in essentially the same manner. When you turn on the
tap, unfiltered water flows through the faucet head at a full-pressure
flow as with any conventional faucet. This allows for dishwashing,
cleaning, and other normal faucet operations at full flow and does not use
up any of the filtering capacity. There is also a button that switches the
standard water stream to a spray, also unfiltered. At the touch of the
button located on the faucet head, the unit switches into filtering mode.
Water is diverted through the filter and comes out the faucet head fully
filtered and ready to drink.
The faucet heads are designed with two
separate water channels in them, so the flows of filtered and unfiltered
water never mix. As you would expect since the water is being diverted
through a filtering mechanism, the flow rate is considerably reduced from
the unfiltered flow.
Both faucets contain a replaceable filter cartridge that's conveniently
located right in the faucet head and can be changed without any tools.
Simply unlock the filter compartment, slide out the used filter cartridge,
and replace it with a new one. Both faucet models have filter cartridges
that will filter about 200 gallons of water -- about a three-month supply
of filtered water for the average family.
Moen's Pure Touch units are more expensive than the Price Pfister models,
in the $400 range as opposed to around $200. For the additional money,
Moen gives you a few more features as well as some additional filtering
options. With the Moen unit, you have a choice of three filters, all of which are
manufactured by Culligan. The MicroTech 5000 filter reduces chlorine to
improve taste and odor as well as lead and two potentially harmful
water-borne microorganisms: Cryptosporidium and Giardia. The MicroTech
3000 filter reduces chlorine for taste and odor as well as lead. The 2000
model filter is for chlorine only.
All of the cartridges run around $25.
Another nice feature of the Moen PureTouch is a battery-powered alarm in
the faucet head which signals you when the filter has reached capacity and
needs to be changed, and also tells you if you've reinstalled the new
cartridge correctly. Price Pfister's,Pfilter,Pfaucet, is designed for taste and odor, filtering
out about 95% of the chlorine. Their replacement filter cartridges, which
use a ceramic-disk valve, cost around $10. Both of these filtering faucets
are available at most plumbing supply retailers as well as some of the
larger home centers and discount outlets -- either in stock or by special
order. The cartridges for both are typically available wherever you buy
the faucet.
Both will fit the 8"-on-center holes found
in just about any kitchen sink. Either faucet can be installed with
standard tools, although you may need a basin wrench to reach up to the
nuts that hold the faucet to the underside of the sink. Basin wrenches can be purchased wherever you buy the faucet, or if you
only need it once, they can be rented as well.
If you are purchasing the faucet for the removal of specific
microorganisms for health reasons, be sure and read all of the
manufacturer's filtering specifications carefully and discuss them with
your doctor. Below the tank that holds the assembly in place, then lift the entire ball
cock assembly out of the tank and discard it.
If you have trouble removing
the nut, soak it in oil for ten minutes or so -- don't force it, or you
run the risk of cracking the porcelain of the tank.
Installing the new ball cock or float cup assembly is the reverse of the
removal process. Install the new rubber washer under the bottom of the
assembly, and pass the lower threaded portion through the bottom of the
tank. Install the lower washers, secure the assembly with a new nut, and
reinstall the water line. All of the necessary washers, nuts and other
parts are supplied with the new unit, so don't reuse any of the old stuff.
Complete installation instructions are included. Turn the water back on, and let the tank fill.
Following the instructions
supplied with the unit, adjust the assembly to achieve the proper water
level inside the tank. For a ball assembly, this is done by moving the
float ball in or out on the float arm, and also moving the adjusting screw
located where the float arm meets the valve assembly. To adjust a float
cup assembly, squeeze the retaining clip on the cup and move the cup up or
down to the proper level. Finally, flush the tank a couple of times to
check for smooth -- and now quiet -- operation.
Copyright 2001-2002 Inman News Features. Distributed by Inman News
Features
Opening a Clogged Toilet
Step 1: A regular suction cup plunger will seldom do the job (B). A force
ball-type plunger exerts a great deal more pressure for cleaning toilets
than the regular type.
Be sure to have sufficient water in the toilet bowl when using the
plunger.
Step 2: If the plunger does not clear the clogged drain, use a closet
auger (Fig. 10). Start the auger or snake into the bowl and continue to
crank it until it becomes tight. This cranking and pulling action will
usually bring up the object that is causing the stoppage.
Step 3: If the closet auger is not effective, use a small snake in the
same way as described for opening lavatory drains.
Step 4: If neither the plunger, the closet auger, nor the snake removes
the obstruction, you may need to remove the toilet from the floor, turn it
upside down, and force the obstruction out from the top or bottom.
Step 5: If you must remove the toilet from the floor, use either a wax
preformed O-ring or fresh plumber's putty in reseating the toilet.
Courtesy of National Retail Hardware Association
Plunging Without a Plunger
A quick, clean and easy way to unclog a toilet.
Tools: A nearby waste basket or water bucket
Tips: An alternative to using a plunger to clear a clogged toilet when the
water level in the bowl is low is to use hydrostatic pressure.
To accomplish this, fill a bucket or plastic
wastebasket with water (I usually use warm water) and pour it into the
clogged toilet from waist level or above . This is usually enough force to
clear the clog. Sometimes it's necessary to repeat the process. There's no
clean-up required, other than splash-back, and the tools are usually
handy.
This helpful article was provided by DoItYourself.com community member
Chuck Cook. If you are interested in sharing your do-it-yourself knowledge
and know-how with the DoItYourself.com's community,
How to Remove and Replace a Toilet
Step 1 Turn the water off at the supply lines. Flush the toilet several
times to remove water from the bowl and tank. Use a sponge to remove any
remaining water from the tank and the bowl.
Step 2 . Remove the wing nuts that attach the tank to the bowl. If they
are corroded, use penetrating oil to help loosen them.
Step 3 . Disconnect the water supply lines. Now the tank is ready to
remove from the bowl.
Step 4 . Remove the caps at the base of the toilet. These may be severely
corroded and require penetrating oil. If the corrosion is severe you may
have to grind or cut off the nuts. Use a utility knife to cut the caulk at
the base of the bowl for easy removal.
Step 5 . Lift off the bowl. The seal is now visible. Be careful to get the
right wax seal. Some wax seals come with extensions for floors that have
been built up. Some wax seals can be joined back to back to create a
double height seal as well. If there is any question about the seal you
need, take the old seal with you and the name of the toilet MANUFACTURER
so a perfect match can be made.
Step 6 . Make sure the seal is room temperature or warmer before refitting
the bowl. Lift the bowl back over the nuts into position. Rotate the bowl
back and forth several times to seat the seal. Line the bowl up with the
wall and check to make sure the bowl is level.
Step 7 . Replace the nuts at the bottom of the bowl and fill the caps with
plumbers putty to keep water out.
Step 8 . Put the tank on the bowl. Check the spud washer for any damage.
If damaged replace it now.
Step 9 . Tighten up the wing nuts and reconnect the water supply lines.
Turn the water on and flush the toilet several times to check for any
leaks.
Step 10 . Re-caulk the base of the bowl to create a water proof seal which
protects the floor and provides additional stability.
Replacing the Toilet Tank Parts
The parts inside a toilet tank are used several times each day and are
constantly submerged in water. This causes a lot of wear and tear on these
parts, but the good news is, they are very easy to replace. There are
three main parts in the tank:
Handle
Flush valve
Ballcock
Replace the Handle
The handles need to be changed every once in a while because they crack or
break. Also, if you are redecorating you might want to get a brass handle
to go with a brass faucet.
Tools and Materials:
Adjustable wrench
Handle with hand lever
Step 1: Remove Handle: Detach the old handle by turning the mounting nut
clockwise (the nut has reversed threads)
Step 2: Attach New Handle: Place the new handle through the handle hole on
the tank. Inside the tank attach the new handle lever, or reuse the old
one, to the handle. Tighten the mounting nut using the wrench by going
counterclockwise.
Replace Flush Valve
Tools and Materials:
Sponges
Flat head screwdriver
Adjustable wrench
Spud wrench or channel-type pliers
Flush valve
Rubber flapper
Lift chain
Step 1: Empty Tank: Shut off the water by turning the angle stop, the knob
on the bottom left of the toilet. Flush the toilet to get rid of the water
in the tank. Mop the remaining water with the sponge.
Step 2: Remove Supply Tube: Disconnect the supply tube from the tank using
the wrench. This is the tube that runs from the tank to the angle stop.
Step 3: Remove Tank: Unbolt the tank from the bowl. It might be stuck on
well, so grab the bolt with the wrench and use the screwdriver to unscrew
the bolt. Lift the tank off the bowl and turn it over.
Step 4: Take Out Old Flush Valve: Take the spud washer off the pipe that
sticks out of the bottom of the tank. Use the spud wrench or channel-type
pliers and unscrew the spud nut. Remove the flush valve.
Step 5: Replace Old Flush Valve: Put the cone washer over the tailpiece so
that the beveled edge of the washer faces up toward the pipe. Turn the
tank right side up. Put the flush valve into the hole in the tank so that
the little tailpiece sticks out the bottom. Position the valve so that the
overflow pipe is next to the ballcock.
Step 6: Install Spud Nut: Turn the tank over and use the spud wrench or
channel-type pliers to tighten the spud nut onto the tailpiece. Put the
spud washer over the spud nut. Turn the tank right side up.
Step 7: Reattach Tank: Place the tank onto the bowl making sure that the
spud washer goes through the hole in the bowl. Bolt the tank to the bowl
using the wrench and the screwdriver.
Caution: Don't over tighten the bolts or it can break the porcelain. The
bolts should just be snug.
Step 8: Put In Flapper: Attach the flapper to the overflow pipe inside the
bowl. There are little lugs that it attaches to. Attach the lever chain
from the flapper to the handle lever. The chain should be taut.
Step 9: Attach Supply Tube: If there are no more repairs, reattach the
supply tube to the tank and turn the water on.
Replace Float-Cup Ballcock
The ballcock comes in different types. A newer style, to replace the old
float-arm ball type, is the float-cup ballcock. This is recommended
because it is more water efficient and is made of plastic, which wears
better. The float ball-arm is made of brass which can warp, affecting the
water level. The following instructions use the float cup ballcock because
it is new and better.
Tools and Materials:
Sponges
Adjustable wrench
Ballcock
Step 1: Empty Tank: Shut off the water by turning the angle stop, the knob
to the bottom left of the toilet. Flush the toilet to get rid of the water
in the tank. Mop the remaining water with the sponge.
Step 2: Undo Supply Tube and Remove Ballcock: Disconnect the supply tube
from the tank using the wrench. The supply tube is the tube that runs from
the angle stop to the tank. Take off the mounting nut and remove the
ballcock.
Step 3: Install New Ballcock: Place the new ballcock through the hole in
the tank. Adjust it so that the lid fits on the toilet. Bend the refill
tube so the tip fits into the overflow tube on the flush valve.
Step 4: Reattach Supply Tube: Attach the coupling nut on the underside of
the tank. If you have no more repairs, attach the supply tube to the tank.
Step 5: Open Angle Stop: Turn the water back on at the angle stop.
Step 6: Correct Water Level: Adjust the water so that it is 1/2 inch below
the top of the overflow tube. You adjust the ballcock by pinching the
spring clip. This moves the float cup up and down. Move the float cup up
to raise the water level and move the cup down to lower the water.
Written by Roy Barnhart, home improvement expert, Fairfield, CT.
Replacing Your Toilet
The toilet is often looked at as a set feature of your bathroom. But it
isn't. You'll want to replace the toilet when remodeling your bathroom so
it matches your new decor. Or you may want to get one that's more
efficient.
There are two main versions that look similar but have some different
operations. However both meet the federal law that states that new toilets
can only use 1.6 gallons of water per flush.
Gravity-Operated Toilet: Most commonly used today, it carefully
regulates the inflow of water. Gravity-operated toilets are best used in
houses that have low water pressure.
Pressure-Tank Toilet: Named so because it pressurizes the water when it
is filling and rapidly releases the pressure when flushed. This causes the
water to be forcefully pushed from the toilet. One possible drawback is
that when it flushes it makes a loud noise.
However, this is a good toilet
when the sewer is far away (such as in the country) or it often clogs. The
increased pressure helps break up any debris in the pipe.
Prices range from the blue collar toilet to the royal throne. You just
need to choose the model type, color and shape that you want.
Measure first: Before you buy, make sure the toilet will fit. Measure the
distance from the wall to the pipe that is in the floor. Measure from the
wall (not the baseboard) to the center of the bolt that holds the toilet
to the floor. Measure to the closest bolt if there are two. The customary
distance is 12 inches but it could be more, or less.
Tools and Materials You Need:
Sponges and rags
Plunger
8-inch adjustable wrench
8-inch flat head screwdriver
Hacksaw
Pan
Putty knife
Wax or rubber closet seal
Toilet
Parts for inside the tank: ballcock, flush valve, handle, handle lever,
rubber flapper, chain for flapper (you need to buy these but some parts
might come as a kit so you might not have to buy them all individually)
Brass closet and tank bolts (some toilets come with these but they might
be plated steel, you want brass)
Level
Spud wrench or 10-inch channel-type pliers
Flexible supply tube (if old one won't reach new tank)
Tubing bender (need if using new supply tube)
Tubing cutter (need if using new supply tube)
Brass compression fittings
Pipe joint compound
Adjustable wrench
Tip: There are different types of ballcocks that you can get. The most
durable and water efficient is the float cup ballcock. This ballcock
regulates the water better and it is made from plastic which protects it
from rust and warping. Avoid the ballcock made from brass, which can bend
and warp.
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