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Building Tables
Planning
Know the safety
standards for the project. Plan ahead and gather the items that you will
be using, and place them where you will build the table. The plans shown
here are for the table built on the video. You may want to adapt them to a
design of your choice.
Wood Selection
The two basic
categories of wood are hardwood and softwood. Hardwood is more durable and
less prone to dents and scratches. It is also more expensive but will
finish to a better advantage. Soft woods, like pine, are more prone to
dents and scratches and do not have the durability of hardwood. Softwoods
are much less expensive and easier to find.
Usually it is best to purchase surfaced stock that is smooth and of a
uniform thickness. However, you can use a planer and purchase the less
expensive rough stock and finish it at home.
Assembling the Frame
There are many ways to
assemble the frame. One of the best ways is to attach the legs to the
rails by using dowels because of their strength. Dowels provide strength
and easier alignment and can be made of wood, metal or plastic. Dowels can
be pointed with spirals. Use pointed dowels with spirals to take out air
pockets because they will set more glue and provide for maximum stability.
The frame will be put
together by using dowels. The dowels are 3/8' diameter by 1 1/2" in
length. The dowel holes are 2" apart (or the setting of the dowel jig) and
begin 3/4" from the top. The centers of the dowel holes should be centered
on the inside edges of the leg and rails.
1. Drill dowel
holes according to the plans, using a dowel jig or a horizontal boring
machine. A dowel jig allows for accurate holes (directly in the center
regardless of the thickness of the wood) in both the legs and rails. A
piece of tape or a depth gauge acts as a guideline for the depth of the
whole (half the length of the dowel plus 1/4").
2. Apply the glue to
the dowels, holes, and flat surfaces. Tap the dowels in « their length
with a mallet. Clamp the side rails and legs together.
3. Glue and clamp side
rails to the end rails. At this point check the frame for square ness by
measuring on opposite corners. If the measurements are the same, then your
table is square. Let the glue dry completely (approximately 24 hours).
Attaching the Top
1. Make sure tabletop
is properly dried. Rip tabletop to exact size.
2. Crosscut tabletop to exact size.
3. Use a belt sander until you have removed all traces of glue and have a
smooth finish.
4. To add the fancy edge, the videotape uses a router, but a shaper or
multipurpose tool could also be used. Start with your end grain first to
allow for a small tear out.
5. Draw lines on the underside of the table to make sure it is centered.
There are two ways to attach the top.
The first is to use screw pockets, which attaches the top to the rails,
this requires using a brad-point bit with a smaller bit to drill a pilot
hole. Drill your pilot holes into the tabletop, and secure the top with
round head wood screws. Be careful not to go through the top.
The other method uses
mirror holders which attach the top to the rails. To use mirror holders to
attach the top to the rails, locate and drill holes for the mounting
screws and secure tabletop in place. Be careful not to drill through top.
Use a drill press to set correct depth.
Finishing the Assembled Table
Sanding
Sandpaper is graded as
medium, or numbers 60, 80, and 100. Fine sandpaper numbers are 150, 180,
and very fine 220, 240, and 280. Medium is usually used for the first
sanding, fine for smoother results and very fine for smoothing finishes
between coats.
Sand with a fine, wet sandpaper (start with 12O grit on plywood and
60-80 grit on other lumber) wrapped around a felt pad or use a pad or
orbital sander. Use aluminum oxide sandpaper because its grit material
lasts longer.
Sand slowly so you get the best job possible. Vacuum frequently to
remove dust. Finish manufacturers recommend which grit of sandpaper to use
with their specific finishes to achieve the smoothest result. Feel the
wood to check on the smoothness as you work because touch is really the
only way to get a smooth surface.
Make sure that you
remove all dust, finger marks and excess glue before applying the finish.
First vacuum or brush the entire piece clean and then wipe with a tack
cloth.
When it is time to varnish, vacuum the room and let the remaining dust
settle for 24 hours. Use a tack rag to remove dust before applying varnish
and between coats. Do not apply urethane varnish over a coat of shellac or
lacquer
Applying the Finish
Apply your finish in a
well ventilated space with lots of room. Cover the floor in the area that
you will be applying the finish so that if a spill occurs it will not
leave a permanent stain. Be sure the area is clean and dust free and can
remain so during the drying period. Your handcrafted table is a personal
source of pride and you will want to select a finish which shows it off to
its best advantage.
Another finish that can
be used is an oil finish. The advantage of the oil finish is that after
the first coat a fine grit of sandpaper can be used when wet (220) to
cause slurry of dust particles and oil. Though beautiful, those oil
finishes, do not have the durability and water resistance of the
polyurethane finishes.
Some refinishers use a sanding sealer, which makes light fuzz stiff so
that it can be sanded off. Test to make sure that a sealer will not
adversely affect the finish by applying to the underside of a shelf and
then applying the stain to see if it goes on smoothly.
If brushing on the finish, consider the following:
Position the piece in
horizontal sections.
Apply the paint, varnish or stain across the grain.
Brush out the finish with the grain using the brush as a wiping tool.
Clean the brush as it collects liquid.
Pull the brush across the table's surface with the bristles held almost
vertically.
Let each side dry between coats.
Check the varnish to
see if a certain stain is called for. Read the label for drying times and
how many coats to apply. Apply two, preferably three coats of urethane
varnish using a good quality natural bristle brush. Between coats wet sand
the finish. Rub the surface till it feels smooth.
Wipe off any residue and then apply the next coat. Be careful at the edges
of the table so varnish doesn't drip or run down the sides. For the final
touch, rub down the table using a thin paste of rottenstone. Let the
finish dry for a week before buffing with a hard paste wax or lambs wool
pad.
Tools and Materials
Tools:
Table Saw
Jointer (optional)
A doweling jig or a horizontal boring tool
Jig saw
Router
Orbital sander
Shaper (optional)
Clamps for gluing
Materials
Cabinet grade plywood
for carcass
Plywood for door, false front insert and kick plate face.
1" x 6" oak for face frame
Dowels
Hinges
Knobs
Glue
Finishing nails (6d)
Flathead wood screws
Drawer materials and slides (if needed)
Sandpaper
Counter top materials
KNOW WHERE YOUR HANDS ARE AT ALL TIMES!
Building Bookcases
Most Common Mistakes
The single most common mistake in any do it yourself project is the
failure to read and follow the manufacturer's instructions for any tool or
material being used. Other common mistakes include taking the safety
measures that are laid out for a project for granted, and poor project
planning. Here is a list of hints to successfully complete a project and
to do it safely.
1.
Follow the "Golden Rule" of measuring: "Measure twice, cut once."
2.
Provide yourself plenty of time for each step.
3.
Understand your plan. (if you have questions, review that part of
the video tape).
4.
When finishing the wood, keep dust and dirt away from the
bookcase.
5.
Follow the application instructions for your choice of finish.
6.
Allow an extra 1/4" to 1/8" when cutting the stock.
7.
Experiment with scrap wood before you work on the real piece. This
will help with finishing touches like the molding.
8.
Be sure to use a dowel jig, horizontal boring machine or dowel
centers to be sure that dowel holes are aligned.
9.
To be sure shelf will be level, mark both sides at once when laying
out for the dado cuts.
10.
Be sure
face frame is flush with the plywood sides before nailing.
11.
Assemble
entire face frame before attaching to the plywood.
12.
Use a
drilling jig to be sure holes are aligned so adjustable shelves will be
level.
13.
Do not fill
countersunk nail holes until after the stain has been applied. This
assures a better color match.
14.
Use plywood
width slightly less 16" so that you can get three pieces from a 48" sheet.
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