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Home Improvement Repair and Remodel
Introduction
Gutter are an important part of your home’s weatherproofing
system. For many homeowners, their gutter system is a secondary concern
and often gets neglected. Don’t make that mistake! It is important that
you maintain a free-flowing gutter system as your gutter prevent rain from
running from your roof and falling too close to your house. Flowing water
away from your house properly will protect your foundation, keep stains
from developing on your siding, and keep walkways ice-free in the
wintertime.
Cleaning and Maintenance. The most basic, but necessary maintenance you
should do is cleaning your gutter system thoroughly. You should clean and
repair your gutter twice a year – once in the spring and once in the fall.
Begin by securely placing your ladder so that you can reach the gutter
easily. Do not rest the ladder directly on the gutter, as you will damage
them! You may be interested in gutter attachments that allow you to raise
your ladder higher without damaging your gutter.
1.
Using rubber gloves, manually clean out any debris that you can reach in
the gutter. It is a good idea to throw the debris into a bucket or garbage
can directly so that you do not make a mess around your home.
2.
While you are cleaning, you should hammer or replace any nails that might
have loosened.
3.
Use
a water hose and spray down the gutter of any small debris. You should see
the water flow out cleanly from the downspout.
4.
If
the water does not flow out cleanly, or your downspout flows directly into
a main drain, you should disassemble the downspout joint from the gutter.
Remove any retaining screws and hardware from the joint.
5.
Pull
the joint downward to remove it from the gutter.
6.
After removing the downspout, spray water through it until it flushes
clean. You may have to use an auger if there are very stubborn clogs.
7.
Before returning the downspout to the gutter, you will need to scrape off
the adhesive from the hardware and inspect the downspout and the gutter to
be sure that it is not damaged or dented.
8.
Use
a silicone sealant around the downspout attachment and slip the downspout
back into place.
9.
Remember to replace the retaining hardware so that the downspout is secure
to the gutter.
10.
After giving the sealant to dry, spray water down the gutter system to
ensure that it is watertight and that the water flows out properly. If
there are any damaged areas, move onto our Gutter Repair tutorial.
Materials
Needed
Gutter Caulk – Silicone caulk will work best
Sheet Metal Screws
Tools Needed
Rubber Gloves – Dish gloves will do fine
Caulk Gun
Screwdriver
Hammer
Extension Ladder
Repairing & Maintaining
Gutter
1.
Leaking and Damaged Downspout. You will sometimes find that the downspout joints loosen and lose
their ability to be watertight. Start by removing the screws holding the
joint together or the retaining hardware depending on how yours is
attached.
2.
Pull
apart the pieces in the joint and use the wire brush to remove any
existing caulk on both the outside of the male piece and the inside of the
female piece of the joint.
3.
Inspect the hardware to be sure that the hardware is not in such condition
that it is not reusable. Your downspout might be dented so that it cannot
be used or your retaining hardware may be damaged. Replace any pieces that
cannot be reused with new material.
4.
Apply caulk to the outside of the male piece of the joint, near the end,
and reattach the female piece
5.
Secure the joint with screws or other retaining hardware suitable for your
gutter.
6.
Leaking gutter sections.
If you find a leak at the joint, and there is no apparent damage
such as rust or dents, your sealant is most likely the culprit. Try to
scrape away as much of the old caulk sealant that is visible.
7.
Then, simply apply a joint caulk, such as silicone, to waterproof the
joint.
8.
Use
your putty knife to spread roofing cement onto the clean area and the
surrounding areas. Try to keep the patch as flat as possible so that water
will run down your gutter properly. If your rusted area is very large or
you want to make a more permanent fix, you should replace the entire
gutter section or cut out the damaged section and replace it.
9.
Replacing a damaged gutter section. There are times when you will have to remove and replace sections
of your gutter system that have been damaged by rust or falling debris
such as tree branches or ice. Before replacing sections of gutter that are
sagging, be sure that it is your gutter, and not the gutter support, which
has failed. You should first remove any retaining hardware from the
section of gutter that you need to replace. As shown, remove the retainers
and connectors.
10.
Use
a 4x4 block of wood and place it inside the good section of gutter as you
cut the bad section out with a hacksaw. This will keep your gutter in good
shape while you are cutting and prevent the gutter from twisting as you
cut it.
11.
Cut
out a section of gutter to replace the piece you have cut out of the
existing gutter. Cut the replacement section about 2” longer than the
section that is being replaced to allow for some overlap.
12.
Using your caulk gun, apply roofing cement to the inside of the original
gutter and place the new section into place so that it overlaps about an
inch on each side.
13.
Drill holes appropriate to your rivets into the overlapping sections of
the gutter, and securely fasten the sections together with rivets.
14.
Replace any retaining hardware that you originally removed, so that the
gutter stays in place.
Materials Needed
1.
Gutter Caulk –
Silicone caulk will work best
2.
Plastic Roofing
Cement
3.
Gutter Liner
4.
Sheet Metal
Screws
5.
Tools Needed
6.
Hammer
7.
Putty Knife
8.
Wire brush
9.
Caulk gun
10.
Screwdriver
11.
Paintbrush
12.
Hacksaw
13.
Heavy-duty
Scissors
Replacing Asphalt
Shingles
Introduction
Your home’s roof is the first line of defense in keeping the elements out.
A common problem among both new and old roofs alike is damaged shingles.
Wind, falling tree limbs, or just normal wear and tear can damage
shingles. It is critical to replace damaged shingles to prevent more
expensive damage from occurring.
This project involves standing on your roof.
f you are afraid of
heights this might not be the best project for you to attempt. Always keep
in mind that roof pitches are very deceiving. What appears to be a
moderate slope and potentially easy to stand on might be very dangerous.
It is essential that you have a good strong ladder. Please do not attempt
this project if you are unsure of your ladder’s stability.
Caution!
Always check your
ladder for structural integrity and make sure it is in good shape.
Caution! Before staring, note the location of power lines. Be sure
to place your ladder a safe distance away.
Tips! Try to pick a warm day to do this project as the shingles
will be more flexible and therefore easier to work with.
Tips! Soft bottom tennis shoes seem to give you the best traction
working on moderately slopped roofs.
1.
This tutorial deals
with replacing a single shingle. The steps are the same for multiple
shingles. In order to remove the damaged shingle, you will need to loosen
the first row of good shingles above the damaged one. Use a prybar or
putty knife to gently pry away the adjacent shingles so that good shingles
are separated from the damaged one.
2.
Once the surrounding
shingles are completely separated, gently rock the damaged shingle back
and forth to remove it. Continue this process until all the damaged
shingles have been removed.
3.
The next step is to
remove the existing nails. Lift the uppermost good shingle, and pry the
nails out, being extremely careful not to damage surrounding shingles (a
small block of wood under the pry bar will help you achieve this). Try to
remove as many nails as possible where you removed shingles.
4.
If there are nails
that cannot remove, drive them flush to the roof with a hammer. There
should be roughly four nails for each shingle. Do not leave any nails
raised above the sheathing.
5.
Now prep the area for
the new shingle by patching any holes or tears in the felt underlayment.
One of the easiest ways to do this is to apply roofing cement using a
caulk gun. Squeeze out some cement and spread it thinly and evenly over
the damaged area with a putty knife. It is also a good idea to cover the
nails that were hammered flush with the roof sheathing with the cement as
well. Have some rags or paper towels available as the cement can be very
messy to work with.
6.
If you are installing
several new shingles, always start at the lowest shingle removed and work
your way up. Align the first shingle with the existing shingles and attach
it with four galvanized roofing nails (or with the number of nails the
manufacturer recommends). Nails should be driven in 3/4 inch above the
shingle tabs. Continue applying shingles upwards and take care that the
new shingles line up properly with the existing ones.
7.
Next, gently pry up the
upper most existing shingle, being careful not to crack it and carefully
slide the final shingles into place and nail them accordingly. It's always
a good idea to put a small dab of roofing cement on the last shingle where
the top good shingle will come into contact with the new shingle. Do not
be concerned that your new shingles do not stick to each other. The
shingles are manufactured with a roofing cement strip, which becomes
extremely tacky with a few warm, sunny days and will ensure a tight seal
against the elements.
Materials Needed
·
Roofing
cement (in caulk tube)
·
Galvanized roofing nails
·
Shingles
·
Tools
Needed
·
Ladder
·
Small pry
bar
·
Putty
knife
·
Caulk gun
·
Hammer
·
Paper
towel or rags
Bag Sag - A Tip on Gutter
In August, gutter
aren't a thought, but September rains make them an issue. If your gutter
aren't draining quickly and drip long after the drizzle fizzles, water may
well be collecting in a low spot caused by sagging. If that's the case,
grab a helper and snap a chalk line along the gutter using both ends of
its top edge as your guiding points. (You should have a slope of 1 inch
for every 16 feet of gutter). Look for spots where the gutter's edge falls
below the chalk line, then refasten the spikes, straps or brackets that
hold it in place to get it back in line.
Clean
Gutter
Anyone who's cleaned
out a gutter knows it's a messy job with an even messier time cleaning up
the debris on the ground after it's been cleaned out of the gutter. But
it's a seasonal task that is necessary for your utters to be able to drain
moisture away from your roof and foundations during the winter months.
Reasons
to Clean
Water doesn't drain
from the downspouts when leaves and other debris clog at the elbows and
downspouts, causing overflow. Cleaning this is an easy, do-it-yourself
job. Simply insert a hose from the bottom and stuff the opening around the
hose with rags so that all the water's force goes upward toward whatever's
blocking the pipe.
When water overflows
from gutter and drips from joints, the leaks can be sealed with caulk.
There's no substitute for cleaning out your gutter system in the spring
and fall. Your gutter and downspouts direct rain and snowmelt away from
the foundation of the house. When your gutter is clogged with leaves and
needles, the water can overflow and collect near the house, seeping
through the foundation walls and into the basement.
Strong winds can loosen
and blow the mineral granules off asphalt shingles. These can drain into
your gutter and downspouts and clog them up.
Strainers and Guards
Leaf strainers and wire
mesh don't always work. They're designed to keep debris out of the gutter,
but the leaves may cling to the screening or the strainer, so they also
may keep water from the gutter, essentially negating the effectiveness of
your drainage system.
Copyright 1999-2003,
Service Magic, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Extend a Downspout
In a heavy rain, gutter collect an enormous amount of water from a
large roof area and typically send it down only a few downspouts. The
water should then be directed at least 3 feet away from the house (and
preferably more). Unfortunately most gutter installers simply terminate
the downspout with an elbow at the bottom. All that water can cause
surface erosion, excessive settling of the earth around the foundation,
and damp or wet basements. Fortunately it's very easy for you to solve the
problem. Add an extension, such as a 5-ft. length of downspout or any of
several devices made for this purpose, to the end of each elbow.
Materials Needed:
·
Downspout
or similar extension
·
Drill and
1/16- or 1/8-in. twist drill bits
·
Elbows (as
needed)
·
Rivet tool
·
1/8-in.-dia. x 1/8-in.-long aluminum rivets
·
Work gloves
·
3/8-in. No.
6 sheet metal screws
·
Hacksaw
with fine-tooth blade
·
Splash
block
·
Metal flat
file (fine)
·
Eye
protection
·
Screwdriver
1.
Cut the Downspout:
Downspouts are widely available in 10-ft. lengths, but can be easily cut
in two with a fine-tooth hacksaw blade. To prevent the saw blade from
binding in the cut, hold the downspout firmly in place and allow the
cutoff to fall freely.
Caution:
Wear gloves to protect your hands and goggles to protect your eyes when
sawing or drilling into metal. Use a metal file to remove any burrs and to
dull the sharp cut edges.
2.
Drill Holes:
Slide the extension over the end of the downspout elbow and drill through
the extension and the elbow with a 1/8-in. bit. If your downspout ends
with a straight section, you must install an elbow first, using the
procedure described in this and the next step.
3.
Install Rivet:
Insert a rivet in the end of the riveting tool and squeeze the handle
until the tool locks onto it. Press the rivet into the drilled hole until
it is fully seated, then squeeze the handle to compress the rivet and
"pop" off the rivet shaft. Rivets are good connectors because there's no
point to catch leaves or other debris. Alternatively, however, you can use
3/8-in. No. 6 aluminum sheet metal screws installed into 1/16-in. pilot
holes.
Tip: If
you ever need to remove a rivet to clear a clog or replace a damaged
extension pipe, simply drill through the rivet with the same-size bit that
you used to install it. Use a high-speed drill and apply very light
pressure as you drill, or the rivet may just spin in place.
Install Splash Block:
To prevent surface erosion and direct water away from the foundation,
place a splash block under the end of your downspout (shown) or downspout
extension.
4.
Install Splash Block:
To prevent surface erosion and direct water away from the foundation,
place a splash block under the end of your downspout (shown) or downspout
extension.
Written by
Roy Barnhart, home improvement expert, Fairfield, CT.
Gutter Clutter
Before fall storms come
your way, you might want to spend an afternoon in the gutter... on your
roof. First, clean out all the debris from the gutter. (If you own a leaf
blower, there's a nifty little gutter attachment that makes the job a
breeze. Ask for it at your nearest hardware store.) Or use a plastic
gutter scoop to clean it out. Next, check for rusted-out patches and other
holes in the gutter. Next, flush out the downspout with a hose. To avoid
any further clogging, install leaf guards that prevent leaves and large
debris from getting into the gutter. Cleaning gutter may be a lot or work,
but at least you won't suddenly get gutter overflows spilling onto your
sidewalks, siding or driveways.
Installing New Gutter
One of the main protectors of your home's siding and foundation
against water damage is your gutter. We rely on them to channel the water
away from the house. Unfortunately, because they get used so much, gutter
get damaged regularly. Some of the damages are easy to repair (see gutter
repairs). Other damage is so extensive that it is easier to install an
entirely new gutter system t10han repair the existing one.
There are many different types of available but the best is the
vinyl snap-together kind. These gutter are moderately priced and almost
completely maintenance free. They don't distort the way metal gutter do.
If they dent, just pop it out. And vinyl gutter are easiest to put up.
Tools and Materials You Need:
·
Extension
ladder (you need one that reaches 3 feet above the edge of your roof to
provide stability)
·
Ladder
stabilizer
·
2 stakes
and wooden pieces (act as brace for ladder feet)
·
Tape
measure
·
Vinyl
gutter sections (sold in 10-foot sections, measure total length you need
and add 15 percent as waste)
·
Vinyl
gutter hangers (one hanger for every 2 feet)
·
Vinyl
inside or outside corners (one for every corner that doesn't have a
downspout or isn't an end of a run)
·
Vinyl
connectors (2 for every corner and then one every 10 feet)
·
Vinyl end
caps (one for each end)
·
Vinyl
downspout outlets (one every 35 feet)
·
Vinyl
downspout elbows (3 for each downspout)
·
Vinyl
drainpipe (one for every downspout, sold in 10-foot sections, measure
gutter height and add 5 feet for waste)
·
Vinyl
drainpipe hangers (2 for every drain pipe)
·
Chalk line
·
Hacksaw
·
Powered
screwdriver
·
1 1/4-inch
deck screws
·
Tip:
Safety:
Use an
adjustable ladder stabilizer that attaches to your ladder and braces on
the roof. This helps keep the ladder from slipping and allows you to work
on the gutter that are directly in front of you. It is important to brace
the feet of the ladder. Put the ladder feet on blocks and then drive a
stake into the ground so that it is right behind the ladder feet.
Step 1. Plan Gutter Run:
Make a map of your house before you buy any
gutter. Figure out how long the gutter run is, how many downspouts you
need and the length of those downspouts. If your old gutter system worked
well, you want to copy it. That is, put the downspouts where the old
downspouts were, etc. Your local hardware store can help you figure out
which vinyl gutter work with your house. When making your purchase, you
have a choice of brown or white gutter to complement your house color.
Step 2. Snap Chalk Line to Guide Gutter:
There are
two ways to mark the slope of your gutter. If the gutter run is less than
or equal to 35 feet, then the high point of the run is at one end and
slopes down to the other end where the downspout is. The high point is
1-inch down from the top of the fascia (the board that the gutter hang
from) and the
slope of 1 inch for every 16 feet of gutter. If
the gutter run is more than 35 feet, then the
high point
is in the middle of the run and it slopes down to the downspouts on each
side.
Again, the
high point
is 1-inch down from the top of the fascia and the slopes are 1/4 inch
every 10 feet. (See figure at left.) If the house has a run less than
35-feet, the high point of the run is at one end of the roof. (See figure
below.) Measure 1-inch down from the top of the fascia at both ends and
slope the gutter at 1/4 inch every 10 feet toward the downspout in the
middle. Mark the slope by snapping the chalk line so that you have a
guideline when putting up the gutter. Have someone hold one end while you
hold the other.
Step 3. Install Downspout Outlets:
Attach the downspout outlets using one of the 1 1/4-inch deck screws. The
outlets should be even with the chalk line and lined up so that the
downspout attaches at the edge of the house. These outlets won't be at the
extreme end of the run because the roof goes out farther than the house.
In Step 7 you attach small sections of gutter at the very end left of the
roof.
·
Tip:
Use a powered screwdriver. This makes the project go much faster.
Step 4. Attach Gutter Hangers:
Fasten the gutter hangers to the fascia
every 24 inches. Start attaching them, using 1 1/4-inch deck screws, about
1 inch away from the ends of the roof to give the gutter support at the
ends and to make room for the end cap. Make sure that you are following
the chalk line so that the gutter are angled properly.
Step 5. Put on Gutter Corners: Attach the corners that don't have
downspouts and shouldn't be the end of the run.
Step 6. Attach End of Gutter Run and Cut Gutter:
Cut the gutter sections with the hacksaw so they fit between the downspout
outlet and the end of the roof. The section should go from about the
middle of the downspout outlet to the roof end. Put on the end cap and
snap the section into the downspout outlet. Hook the gutter onto the
hanger. Cut the other sections so that they go between the downspout
outlets. Remember that the gutter section starts from about the middle of
the downspout outlet.
·
Tip:
When cutting gutter, you need a solid base to work from, so turn the
gutter upside down and have it resting on the ground or a piece of wood as
you cut.
Step 7. Hang Gutter:
Do this step on the ground. Connect the gutter
sections together using the connectors. The connectors just snap onto the
gutter sections. Also, if you have a run that is less than 35 feet, you
need to attach the end cap to the end without an outlet. Now, with another
person, hang the gutter. The other person needs to hold one end while you
snap the gutter into the outlet and then while you hook the gutter onto
the hangers.
Step 8. Attach Beginning of Drain Pipe:
Now for the downspouts: Cut a piece of drainpipe so that it fits between
the downspout elbow on the outlet and the downspout elbow on the wall. Put
the elbows on the pipe and snap it onto the outlet. Use a drainpipe hanger
to secure the other elbow to the wall.
Step 9. Install Drain Pipe:
Cut another piece of drainpipe that fits
between the elbow on the wall and 1 foot above the ground. Snap the drain
pipe into the elbow at the top and attach another elbow to the bottom.
Fasten a drain pipe hanger at the lower elbow. Cut a section of pipe to
funnel the water away from the base of your house; this length depends on
you.
Tip:
Buy a plastic splash block. This protects you house from
the gutter water by keeping the water from seeping back toward the house.
Install
Copper Gutter
Copper Gutter
Copper is an expensive
material that is strong, durable, rust-resistant and nearly maintenance
free. It will weather green unless you coat it with a clear sealant. It
needs to be installed by a professional.
Gutter Basics
Gutter are critical
components of a house because they protect both the roof and the
foundations from moisture damage by channeling water from the roof out
away from the house.
The standard
square-edge style is also called the "box" style. It has sharp, boxy,
square edges, and you see this on a lot of commercial sites. The "ogee
detail" style, which kind of looks like an exterior crown molding, is also
called "K-style." It's slightly more decorative, giving your home's
exterior a more finished look.
You'll need a variety
of pieces to make your gutter system work. Both inside and outside corner
pieces for gutter are also known as elbow joints. They're used to make
right turns in your gutter system.
Copyright 1999-2003,
Service Magic, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Install
Galvanized Gutter
Galvanized Gutter
Galvanized is a strong
and inexpensive material choice for your gutter system. It can rust.
Gutter
Installation Basics
Gutter are critical
components of a house because they protect both the roof and the
foundations from moisture damage by channeling water from the roof out
away from the house.
The standard
square-edge style is also called the "box" style. It has sharp, boxy,
square edges, and you see this on a lot of commercial sites. The "ogee
detail" style, which kind of looks like an exterior crown molding, is also
called "K-style." It's slightly more decorative, giving your home's
exterior a more finished look.
You'll need a variety
of pieces to make your gutter system work. Both inside and outside corner
pieces for gutter are also known as elbow joints. They're used to make
right turns in your gutter system.
Copyright 1999-2003,
Service Magic, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Install
PVC Gutter
PVC
Gutter
Vinyl,
or PVC, is a tough, maintenance-free, moderately-priced material popular
with newer installations.
Gutter Basics
Gutter
are critical components of a house because they protect both the roof and
the foundations from moisture damage by channeling water from the roof out
away from the house.
The
standard square-edge style is also called the "box" style. It has sharp,
boxy, square edges, and you see this on a lot of commercial sites.
The
"ogee detail" style, which kind of looks like an exterior crown molding,
is also called "K-style." It's slightly more decorative, giving your
home's exterior a more finished look.
You'll
need a variety of pieces to make your gutter system work. Both inside and
outside corner pieces for gutter are also known as elbow joints. They're
used to make right turns in your gutter system.
Copyright 1999-2003,
Service Magic, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Install Vinyl Rain Gutter
An enormous quantity of rainwater falls on your roof. Without a
rain gutter it all gets dumped right next to the foundation. The most
popular gutter options are aluminum and vinyl systems. Of those two, a
vinyl system is probably the easiest to install and the sturdiest. Vinyl
systems are typically available in white or brown, but can be painted with
100% acrylic latex paint. (Note: Painting them eliminates the
maintenance-free benefit.) They are available in two or three profiles,
with internal or external (hidden or visible) mounting brackets.
There are two standard widths -- 4-inch for roofs up to 750 square
feet in area, and 5-inch for larger roof areas. It's better to err on
large side if you live in areas subject to downpours or if gutter are
likely to become clogged with leaves; and increase the number of
downspouts above the minimum guidelines of one per 30 to 40 feet. If you
live in snowy/icy areas, also go above the minimum recommended number of
hangers. The roof must have an effective drip edge so water will drop into
the gutter. Several manufacturers offer a combination
leaf-guard/drip-edge. To determine the area of a roof plane, multiply
length times width - but don't walk on a roof to get the distance from
peak to eaves. Just count the number of roof courses and multiply by the
exposure.
Before You Begin: Ask your supplier for an estimating and
installation guide so you can generate a shopping list. Round up a couple
of ladders that will allow you and a helper to work comfortably at the
roof edge -- measuring and installation are both two-person tasks. Ideally
a gutter should be pitched 1/16 inch/foot for drainage. But the outer top
edge of the gutter ideally should line up with the roof plane and,
therefore, be level. Most people prefer a level installation, which will
drain better and looks better. It's your call.
1. Establish a Level Line: Place a straightedge flat on the roof and so
it extends about 6 inches over the roof edge. Hold a drop outlet in
position against the fascia and slide it up until the outer edge contacts
the straightedge. Mark the location of the mounting holes with a pencil.
Do the same at the other end of this roof section. Stretch a chalk line
between marks; check that it is level; and snap a line.
·
Tip:
The
drip edge should extend 1 to 2 inches beyond the fascia. If there's too
much roof overhang, pad out the gutter with wood blocks on the fascia; if
there's too little, extend the drip edge.
2. Install Corners: To pitch a gutter, measure the length of the
roof section. On2. Install Corners Position any corners on the guideline
and secure them to the fascia with rust-resistant screws (here an inside
corner is shown). If your fascia is angled, or if there are exposed rafter
tails and no fascia board, manufacturers supply special accessories or
hangers that allow the gutter to be installed at the proper angle. the end
where you'll put the drop outlet, lower the line1/16 inch for every foot
of length. Then snap the guideline.
3. Install Drop Outlets:
Similarly, align and fasten all the drop
outlets at the planned locations. You'll need one outlet for every 30 to
40 feet of gutter. This one is at the end of a run. On a very long-run
roof edge, you might choose to install an outlet at each end. Then either
install the gutter level or pitch it from a high point in the middle.
4. Install Brackets: Install brackets on the fascia spaced between
30 and 36 inches apart (24 and 30 inches apart, if you live in an area
that gets heavy snow). Align each bracket with the guideline and fasten it
with a rust-resistant screw. An external bracket is shown here; you may
choose to use hidden brackets, which are also secured with screws.
5. Install Gutter Sections: Starting at an end or corner, snap a 10-foot
gutter onto the brackets. Attach a connector to the end of the gutter
(left). This style hooks over the back of the gutter; then it is wrapped
around the gutter, snapped over the front edge and screwed to the fascia.
Install each additional gutter section and connector this way until you
are less than 10 feet from the end of the run.
6. Cut Gutter to Fit:
Measure to determine the proper length for the
last section of gutter. Transfer the measurement to a 10-foot section of
gutter (upside down), and use a fine-tooth saw such as a backsaw to cut it
to length. If you have a miter box, use it to guide your cut. When you
complete the cut, file off any burrs and install it. Wear goggles when
cutting.
7. Attach End Caps: Lubricate the seal and attach an end cap on
the drop outlet (left). If there is a drop outlet or an open gutter at the
other end of the run, install an end cap there, too. Repeat the above
procedures until all the gutter are installed.
8. Install Elbow on Drop Outlet: Cut a short piece of downspout (or use
a special bushing supplied for this purpose). Install it between the drop
outlet and a 45-degree elbow.
9. Complete Offset: Attach an elbow to the top of a short
downspout and hold it against the wall so the open ends of the two elbows
face each other. Then measure the length of downspout for the offset, and
the length of downspout(s) to extend from the elbow to just above the
ground. Cut the downspout lengths, install the elbow between them and
attach that assembly to the elbow on the outlet.
10. Optional Elbow: If you live in an area where leaves are likely
to land in your gutter and if your downspout is connected to a closed
drain that could get clogged, consider using this special elbow instead of
a standard one. The angled grate forces leaves out the front opening but
allows water to continue on its path.
11. Attach Downspout to Wall: Secure the downspout to the wall with a
bracket at the top (near the offset) and at the bottom. On downspouts over
10 feet long, use a downspout coupler to join the sections of downspout
and install a bracket at that location, too.
12. Attach Diverter: Install a 45-degree elbow at the bottom of the
downspout to direct water away from the house. Then attach a hinged
plastic diverter to the elbow to carry the water a few feet away.
Alternately, attach a length of downspout to the elbow or let the water
drop from the elbow onto a concrete or plastic splash block. Install the
remaining downspouts and enjoy the rest of your weekend.
Tools and Materials
·
Ladders
·
Tape
measure
·
Chalk line
·
2-foot
spirit level
·
Goggles
·
Drill/driver and bits
·
Fine-tooth
saw
·
Gutter
system
Written by
Roy Barnhart, home improvement expert, Fairfield, CT. Illustrated by
artist George Retseck
Locate a Roof Leak
When a roof leaks, water is getting under or through two possible
areas:
·
the roofing
material (asphalt or wood shingles, roll roofing, etc.);
·
the
flashing and gaskets that protect valleys, edges, and penetrations such as
chimneys, vent pipes, and skylights.
Warning signs include visible dampness or mold on interior walls
and ceilings, peeling paint or wallpaper, or simply damp odors, especially
in confined spaces such as hallways.
The source of a roof leak is not always obvious. A leak may not be
directly above the water stain on a ceiling or wet spot on the attic
floor; it may travel horizontally under shingles and then down the roof
sheathing before penetrating at a seam. Some apparent "leaks" may in fact
be condensation on the underside of the roof caused by inadequate attic
ventilation.
It helps to know the most common leak locations. The most obvious
ones are wherever the roofing is visibly missing or damaged, but more
often leaks occur at flashing points (valleys and roof penetrations). In
northern climates, where roofs are exposed to snow and ice, roofs that are
otherwise in perfect condition may leak in the lower foot or two of the
roof when snow or ice build up, forming a dam that collects water from
melting snow. If leaks occur only at these locations and under these
conditions, the solution lies in preventing the dams (a matter of proper
ceiling insulation and eave ventilation).
1. Inspect Attic Floor: Pick a rainy day to go up to the attic and
look for dripping water or signs of water, such as water stains, wet or
moldy insulation, or mold on the attic floor. (If the ceiling is attached
directly to roof rafters, such as with a cathedral ceiling or flat roof,
skip to Step 4).
·
Caution:
Use caution in an unfloored attic. Lay down catwalks, making sure the ends
of boards fall over framing members. These will make getting around safer;
and by distributing your weight more evenly you are less likely to cause
"nail pops" in drywall ceilings (especially in truss ceilings or older
homes with undersized ceiling joists).
2. Inspect Roof Sheathing: Examine the underside of the roof. Follow any
water trail to its highest point. Pay particular attention to areas around
plumbing vent pipes, chimneys, and wherever changes in the roof structure
occur (valleys, dormers). Localized water, black mold, or damp wood at
these points probably mean the flashing either has holes in it or was not
properly installed. If the leak seems to occur in the middle of the roof,
you have a shingle problem somewhere above that point.
·
Tip:
To minimize any damage, tack a piece of string into the stream of water
and extending straight down into a bucket. The water will tend to follow
the string rather than run down the underside of the sheathing or rafter.
3. Take Measurements: Mark the spot with a marker or crayon and, if
necessary, take some measurements from points such as the ridge or
sidewall that will help you locate the leak from the outside.
4. Inspect Roofing:
·
a. Asphalt
shingles.
If your leak is midroof or at the ridge (rare), and is, therefore,
shingle-related, look for damaged or missing shingles.
b. Roll roofing. Inspect for damaged roofing on flat or nearly flat
roofs covered with roll roofing.
c. Wood shingles and shakes. Look for cracked shingles or shakes.
In a wood roof, leaks may also occur if the shingles were not properly
installed with a minimum sidelap of at least 1-1/2 inches between joints
of shingles in adjacent courses. (Water falling in a gap between two
shingles would therefore need to travel horizontally at least 1-1/2 inches
before getting to a joint in the course below.)
·
Caution:
To avoid damaging a roof and to avoid unnecessary risk, stay off it unless
absolutely necessary, especially in hot weather and when roofing is old
and dried out. Never walk on a wet roof. At minimum, make your initial
observations from a ladder, or use binoculars.
5. Inspect Flashings: Look for leaves and other debris that may be
slowing the downward movement of water. Look carefully for corrosion in
metal flashings or open joints where they connect to a chimney or other
roof penetration. Look for dried out rubber gaskets at plumbing vents.
(Most are replaceable.)
6. Inspect Attachments: If you have an antenna, satellite dish, or
other object attached to the roof with screws or nails, make sure that
flashing cement was used over the fasteners (or that it has not dried
out).
7. Inspect Cement Repairs: If there are any areas covered with black
flashing cement, examine the cement carefully for pinholes or cracks. The
presence of such cement usually indicates a stopgap repair of a past leak,
and such repairs are never permanent.
Mind in
the Gutter
Some leaves won't make
it all the way to the ground. In fact, they may land on your roof, blow
into your gutter and create massive leaf-clots in your downspout. Then
comes the water leaks and maybe even a flood from above, straight through
your ceilings. Scared yet? Protect yourself by installing leaf strainers
at the top of your downspouts. Or, for even better protection, cover the
whole length of your gutter with a wire mesh gutter-guard.
Mind in the Gutter
If you have a house with steel rain gutter, you'll want to check
them for rusted patches. Catch the problem early and it's a cinch to fix.
Just buff off the rust, clean off the area and coat the hole with plastic
cement. If a large hole is already there, you can treat it by laying down
aluminum foil or plastic on top of the plastic cement. If it's too big
even for this method, consider either replacing the section of gutter or
laying in a piece of metal flashing to bridge the gap.
More Products From The Internet's Largest Hardware Store
Repair Aluminum Gutter
Aluminum Gutter
Aluminum is a
moderately priced and rust-resistant material popular with newer
installations. It comes unfinished or factory-painted. The downside is
that aluminum tends to leak at joints because the metal expands and
contracts too much for sealant to hold permanently. Also it dents easily.
Gutter Basics
Gutter are a critical
component of your house because they prevent moisture damage by channeling
water off the roof and away from the foundation. But any damaged lengths
of gutter or drainpipe can cause leaks which can negate the gutter and
result in water damage to your home.
When gutter fail, you
need to evaluate the type and extent of damage in order to select the best
repair method. Some minor repairs can be done yourself.
Of course, keeping your
gutter free of debris and leaves (use a trowel if you do it yourself) and
flushing out clogged downspouts is essential. Mesh gutter guards will help
prevent clogs in the future.
Copyright 1999-2003,
Service Magic, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Repair
Copper Gutter
Copper
Gutter
Copper is an expensive
gutter material that is strong, durable, rust-resistant and nearly
maintenance free. It will weather green unless you coat it with a clear
sealant. It needs to be installed by a professional.
Gutter
Basics
Gutter are a critical
component of your house because they prevent moisture damage by channeling
water off the roof and away from the foundation. But any damaged lengths
of gutter or drainpipe can cause leaks which can negate the gutter and
result in water damage to your home.
Gutter
Problems
When gutter fail, you
need to evaluate the type and extent of damage in order to select the best
repair method. Some minor repairs can be done yourself. Gutter patching
kits are also available at hardware stores and they are useful for making
temporary small repairs.
Of course, keeping your
gutter free of debris and leaves (use a trowel if you do it yourself) and
flushing out clogged downspouts is essential. Mesh gutter guards will help
prevent clogs in the future.
Repairing Metal Gutter
Rain can bring life to your lawn and garden, but it can be murder
on your house. Gutter take the brunt of the storms and so they need to be
taken care of. If they aren’t, they can cause extensive damage to the
outside and inside of your house. Clogged, dented or torn gutter can
create pools of water which then leak into your basement.
There are some new products that have been developed that work as
preventive measures against clogs. One is a mesh gutter guard which covers
the gutter so leaves can’t get into it. To prevent things from going down
the downspout, there are downspout strainers. These items help prevent
future problems, but there are some problems that you need to take care of
now.
Some minor problems, such as holes and cracks, can be fixed by
filling them with gutter caulk or by using a gutter patching kit. (These
are applied to the inside of the gutter.) There are more serious problems
in which you’ll need to patch a tear or replace a section of gutter. If
you have extensive damage, you need to start over and install new gutter.
·
Caution: Use an adjustable ladder stabilizer that
attaches to your ladder and braces on the roof. This helps keep the ladder
f room slipping and it also allows you to work on the gutter that are
directly in front of you. It is important to brace the feet of the ladder.
Put the ladder feet on blocks (to make them level) and then drive stakes
into the ground so that they are right behind the ladder feet.
Patch a Tear in a Metal Gutter
Tools and Materials:
·
Extension
ladder (one that reaches 3-feet above the edge of your roof to provide
stability)
·
Ladder
stabilizer
·
2 stakes
and wooden pieces (act as brace for ladder)
·
Wire brush
·
Abrasive
pad
·
Putty knife
(small)
·
Roof cement
·
Metal
flashing (made of same metal as gutter and big enough to cover bottom and
side of gutter)
Step 1. Clean Area: Use the ladder with the ladder stabilizer to
reach the gutter. Make sure you brace the feet of the ladder. Clean the
damaged area with a wire brush. Go over it with an abrasive pad. Wash the
dust and residue away. Let dry.
Step 2. Apply Roof Cement: Cover the damaged area, plus a few inches
outside, with roof cement using the putty knife. You want the cement to be
about 1/8-inch thick.
Step 3. Fix Patch with Roof Cement:
Bend the flashing to fit the inside contours of the gutter. You want it to
cover the damaged area and one side. Press the patch into the cement. With
a little bit of roof cement, go over the edges of the patch. You want to
feather the edges of the cement so that you don’t cause a dam to form.
Feathering is done by using more pressure at the edges of the cement,
thereby making it thinner.
Replacing Section of Gutter
Tools and Materials You Need:
·
Extension
ladder (one that reaches 3 feet above the edge of your roof to provide
stability)
·
Ladder
stabilizer
·
2 stakes
and wooden pieces (act as brace for ladder)
·
Wood spacer
that is as wide as your gutter
·
Screwdriver
or pry bar (depends on what kind of gutter hangers you have)
·
Little
spacers (to put behind gutter when you are cutting)
·
Hacksaw
·
Gutter
(same material and shape as the old one)
·
Wire brush
·
Gutter
caulk
·
Screwdriver
(may want to use an electric one)
·
6 sheet
metal screws
Step 1. Remove Gutter Hangers: Use the ladder with the ladder
stabilizer to reach the gutter. Make sure you brace the feet of the
ladder. Take off any gutter hangers that are in or around the damaged area
using the screwdriver or pry bar (depends on what kind of gutter hangers
you have). Put the wood spacer in between the gutter to protect it. Now
when you put pressure on the gutter, you won’t distort it.
Step 2. Cut Damaged Area Out: Slip the little spacers between the
gutter and the wall. (This protects the roof and wall when you are cutting
the gutter.) Cut out the damaged section of gutter using the hacksaw.
Step 3. Make Gutter Section: Cut the new gutter section so that it
is 4 inches longer than the damaged area that you cut out. Turn the gutter
upside down and cut, making sure you have a solid base to work from.
Step 4. Position Gutter Section: Use a wire brush and scrub the inside
edges of the old gutter. Caulk the ends of the old gutter from the inside,
about 2 inches worth on sides and bottom of gutter at each end. Then place
the new piece into the old gutter. The new piece should be centered so
that the caulk is covered on both ends. Press the new section into the
caulk.
Step 5. Rehang Gutter:
Screw or rivet the new pieces together using 3 on each side. Caulk over
the screws that are exposed on the inside of the gutter. Reattach the
gutter hangers.
Copyright
1999-2003, Service Magic, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Seamless Gutter Offer Trouble-Free Service
By:
Paul Bianchina
In many parts of the country, good rain gutter can be essential. In
any rainy area, gutter can make a substantial difference in protecting
eaves, facia, and siding, and allow you to control and channel water to
desired disposal sites.
There are lots of different gutter materials to choose from,
including steel, aluminum, vinyl, copper, even wood, and many types of
gutter - steel and vinyl in particular - are sold as a system of
interlocking parts that are a tempting project for the do-it-yourselfer.
But there's a downside to these gutter systems - seams. The gutter
themselves are sold in 10' lengths, and are connected with slip couplings
at each joint and corner, resulting in dozens of seams around the
perimeter of the average home, each one of which is a weak spot and a
potential leak site.
Another alternative well worth considering is the installation of
seamless metal gutter. Seamless gutter must be fabricated on-site by a
professional contractor, so there's no do-it-yourself savings to be had.
But the improved performance of the entire gutter system is worth the
additional investment, which usually is not that much more than a DIY
system.
The seamless gutter system - also called a continuous gutter - is a
little misleading in its name, since there actually are seams in the
system. These occur only at the corners, however, and instead of slip
fittings, these joints are typically riveted and sealed for stability and
leak resistance. The gutter runs themselves are continuous, making them
both strong and visually more appealing.
Selecting a Contractor
Your first step is to select a contractor, which you can find by
word of mouth or by looking in the Yellow Pages under "Gutter and
Downspouts." As with any contractor selection, look for a company with an
established reputation, and confirm their current status with your local
licensing authority.
The contractor will need to make a site visit in order to measure
your home and discuss your options. At the time of the contractor's visit,
request a sample of the proposed gutter so you can see the size, shape and
quality of the material. You'll also want to look at a color chart, as
well as a list of past-client references with addresses so you can drive
by and take a look at the finished product.
Most seamless gutter contractors can offer you several options,
including the size and sometimes the shape of the gutter, the size and
shape of the downspout, and a palette of 20 or more color choices. If you
want to paint the gutter to match your house, select a white or primed
material for best paint coverage. If you can find a color you like,
however, go with that instead - it saves you the time and expense of
painting, and the factory colors are baked on for durability. For a truly
distinctive look - at a rather distinctive price - most contractors also
offer continuous copper gutter. Whatever your final choice, be sure and
get a detailed estimate in writing.
Installation
For the average house, installation will be done in one day. The
contractor will arrive with a truck- or trailer-mounted forming machine
and a coil of flat metal in the color you've selected. Each run of eave is
measured individually, and the metal is rolled through the forming machine
to create a continuous piece of gutter that is custom sized to that eave.
The contractor will typically also have a couple of attachment
options to offer you. One is the spike and ferrule - a hollow tube is
placed inside the gutter to keep it from bending, then a long spike is
driven through the face of the gutter at the top, through the ferrule and
into the wood facia board. A better option is the eave hook - different
companies will have different names for this - which interlocks into the
gutter for a cleaner look and which is then attached to the roof under the
shingles for superior strength. The eave hook option will probably be an
extra charge, but the added strength is well worth the investment. In
fact, some companies will offer a written guarantee against the gutter
ever working loose from the house, a real plus in areas subject to lots of
snow and ice.
The crew will work their way around the house, fabricating,
installing and sealing each length of gutter and each inside or outside
corner as they go. The last step is the installation of the downspouts,
which will be located as needed according to the amount of roof runoff
each section of gutter has to handle, as well as the where the best
location is for directing the runoff away from the house. The price of the
downspouts will be included in your estimate, but make sure the contractor
has discussed downspout locations and options for water disposal with you
so you know what to expect before the job starts.
Copyright
2001-2002 Inman News Features. Distributed by Inman News Features
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