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In depth information on do it yourself home property maintenance, covering all aspects of residential home, commercial, business, and apartment building repair, remodeling, and renovation projects Featuring tips, advice, how-to and step-by-step information to help you maintain and improve the value of your business building and home.

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Home Security Tips

Don’t leave a key outside your home even if you think it’s well hidden. Instead leave one with a trusted neighbor or friend. An experienced intruder can uncover most places you might hide a key. Make sure you close and lock all doors and windows that are accessible from outside your home.

Leave a light on in your home at night after you retire. Lighting is a deterrent to intruders and should be used when you’re away from your home. Timers are inexpensive and can make potential intruders wonder whether the home is occupied. A timer should control a radio when you’re away as well.

Deadbolt locks should be used on all doors. Windows should be well secured with latches available from your local hardware store, and you might also consider shatterproof glass.

Make sure you replace the batteries in your smoke detectors on a regular basis. A good time to do this is when you set your clocks forward in the spring. You should periodically check your locks to see if they’ve been tampered with.

Don’t admit anyone to your home that you’re not expecting. In the event that a person represents themselves as an official employee of a utility or public agency, ask for identification and don’t be reluctant to refuse entry if you can’t verify by telephone that they are who they say. Use a chain and peephole whenever answering your door.

Test your alarm system at least monthly, we would recommend weekly.

Make sure to have a friend or neighbor pick up your mail and any newspapers or packages when you leave your home unattended.

Arm or turn on your burglary alarm system, whenever you leave the home and when you retire for the night

Courtesy of Home Security Products and Alarm Monitoring Services


Automatic Renewal for Monitoring Services: A Benefit or Detriment?

Recently, there has been much discussion on the topic of automatic renewal for alarm monitoring services.  Many experts believe the process of automatic renewal for monitoring services is a valuable asset. However, while clearly an alarm system is a very useful instrument in deterring crime, I  would, argue that the automatic renewal clause solely benefits the monitoring service provider.

Industry lenders extend credit, in part, using the assumption that the subscriber will continue to pay for service at the base rate or higher, for a period extending beyond the initial contract term.  Attrition projections assume that most customers will do nothing at the end of the initial contract term and therefore renew by default.

The typical situation used to promote the automatic renewal of alarm monitoring services describes a subscriber’s failure to call the alarm company on Monday to renew their service, being cut off on Tuesday and being burglarized on Wednesday. However, this is not an example of real world, alarm company, accounts receivable dynamics.

In fact, where there is no automatic renewal clause in place, no contract at all, or even an extended failure to pay by the subscriber, general industry practice is to carry the customer for several months, while escalating the collection process.  Very few, if indeed any, central stations will knowingly fail to respond to an alarm signal, without several notification attempts by mail, telephone and finally certified mail with return receipt.

We as an industry should, in my opinion, consider crediting our customers with a modicum of intelligence and the ability to choose.  The fact is that after a subscriber’s initial contract term has been met, the subscriber is free to choose another monitoring service provider or indeed no provider at all.

In general, satisfied customers will continue to pay for their alarm service, whether or not an automatic renewal clause exists in their contract.  Unhappy customers will not only fail to renew but in many cases attempt to leave before completing the term of the contract.


Courtesy of Home Security Products and Alarm Monitoring Services




 Converting An Alarm System Monitoring Firm - FAQS

What is the cost of converting my system from one alarm-monitoring vendor to another?

In most cases there is no cost for the conversion. This is usually predicated on the ability to download new data to your alarm system's control panel. In most instances, if your system cannot be downloaded, a trained technical support personnel will attempt to walk you through a process that will enable reprogramming of your system to accept downloading. This is usually done from your alarm system keypad and sometimes done from the alarm control panel. If your system is still unable to be downloaded, the next option is usually an in-home service call. Your system will be reprogrammed on-site to accept downloading and the on-site service technician will also thoroughly test the system. The cost for this on-site service is generally $50.00 to $75.00, depending upon location and the time required.

How long does it take to convert my alarm system?

If your system can be downloaded, then converting your system can usually be accomplished within 24 hours. If you use an answering machine, fax machine or modem on the same telephone line your alarm system is connected to, then you may be need to be available on the phone for a few minutes to complete the conversion process.

How do I know my system works properly after conversion?

After the conversion is completed, you will immediately be asked to test your system. You should test your system at least monthly. We recommend weekly.

Is my Security System connected to local police and fire departments?

Consistent with most local laws, your alarm system does not directly connect to local emergency response agencies. Instead, most security systems utilize your pre-existing telephone line as the primary communication link to an alarm company’s 24-hour call center facilities.

What will the response time be?

When your alarm activates, call centers respond immediately. And, consistent with local laws, will notify police, fire or ambulance services after verifying a true emergency. Please note: Some local governments have placed various conditions or restrictions on their response policies and do not dispatch emergency personnel based solely on alarm signals. You should contact your local government, police or fire department to determine response policies.

Suppose the electricity goes out?

Most alarm systems use equipment that includes back-up batteries to provide a secondary power supply for your security system. In the event electricity fails, the system automatically switches to the battery. Most secondary power supplies will recharge once electricity is restored to the system. For specific information concerning use of the secondary power supply, please consult your alarm system user manual.

What if I forget the code that arms/disarms my system?

In the event you cannot remember your access code, please contact your Alarm Company’s Customer Service Department. Most companies have representatives available 24/7 to assist you with changing the code.

What if my alarm system needs service?

Most companies will attempt to resolve any problems by telephone or by downloading to your alarm control panel. If this is unsuccessful, you generally have the option of an in-home service call by a trained technician. The cost of this is generally $50.00 to $75.00 depending upon location and the time required.

Courtesy of Home Security Products and Alarm Monitoring Services



Installing a Home Alarm System

Home alarm systems fall into two general categories: hard wired and wireless alarm systems.

For DoItYourselfers, wireless alarm systems are more easily installed and can be added to or moved to a new location with ease. Hardwired systems, on the other hand, have a lower equipment cost, but are more time consuming to install and require the ability to hide wires in walls for a neat installation.

The typical alarm system, as sold to most middle income homes by alarm dealers, consists of the following components:

  • An alarm control panel

  • Keypad control to turn the system on and off

Major alarm companies and their authorized dealers, using telemarketing, direct mail, media advertising and other marketing techniques, market these alarm systems.

The cost of these alarm systems, both wired and wireless to the consumer is as follows:

  • Installation fee: Free to $199.95 depending on optional equipment bought by the customer.

  • Monthly fee: $29.95 – $39.95 presented as the “monitoring” fee, more on this below

  • Term of contract: 2 – 5 years

The average system profile for the median home:

  • Monthly Fee: $34.95

  • System type: hard wired

Average dealer cost for this system:

  • Equipment: $100.00 - $200.00

  • Installation: $150.00 - 175.00 Sales commission: $350.00     

  • $625.00 - $700.00

Once the system is installed and the consumer has signed the term contract, the dealer sells the contract to the major alarm company that he represents.  Typically the dealer receives 32 times the monthly fee for the sale.  This fee is known in the traded as RMR (recurring monthly revenue).

The contract that the customer signs, although presented, as a “service agreement” is in reality a form of financing, with no interest limitations.  In some cases the contract includes in-home service, but in most cases service is billed after the initial warranty period of 90 days to 1 year has passed.

Service on modern alarm systems is minimal; in fact most consumers never see a technician after the installation is complete other than to add devices to the system.

Monitoring of the alarm system is included in the monthly fee.

In our examples shown above the dealer would receive:

  • Dealer cost: $625.00 - $700.00

  • Contract sale: 32 X $34.95 = $1118.40

  • Gross profit =   $418.40 - 493.40

In actual fact, most homeowners or apartment dwellers can easily install a wireless alarm system themselves, of the same quality and even the same brand as professionally installed alarm systems and save themselves hundreds of dollars on installation fees.

Additionally, low cost alarm service monitoring can be obtained from reputable established companies at a cost significantly less than the monthly fee charged by major alarm companies and their dealers.  Most will require a term contract or prepayment of 1 year or more, however others may bill on a month-to-month basis with no term contract.

The result for DoItYourselfers is a security system purchased at reasonable cost, without any long-term commitment for monitoring and providing exactly the same benefits as a professionally installed system.

Courtesy of Home Security Products and Alarm Monitoring Services


Secrets About How the Alarm Industry Overcharges


Why you are paying more than $29.95 per month.

More than likely, you signed up for your home alarm system on a two-year contract with an independent dealer. The dealer then sold, that's right, SOLD your contract to the major Alarm Company. The dealer was paid upwards of $900.00 for your contract.

Why would the alarm company be willing to pay $900 for a two-year contract worth only $720?

Here’s the industry’s little secret:

The Alarm Company knows you'll pay the bill month after month, without question, even after the initial term of the contract has expired. In fact, studies show that customers continue to pay this rate for seven and one half years on average.


Courtesy of Home Security Products and Alarm Monitoring Services



Become Unappealing to Thieves


Nothing ruins a great getaway like coming home to realize you've had unwelcome house guests. To help avoid being burglarized take the following pre-vacation steps:

  • Call the post office to stop mail and suspend newspaper delivery

  • Get a few timers to turn several lights, the TV or radio on and off during the day and night

  • If you have a second car, park it in the driveway

  • If you'll be gone long, ask a neighbor to put some of their trash in your garbage cans

  • Ask a friend or neighbor to house sit by dropping by regularly and checking up on things and picking up junk mail and flyers that can accumulate. (Remember to describe this house sitter to your neighbors, so burglars can't claim to be house sitting and house sitters don't get arrested.)

  • If you have a baby monitor, leave the monitor with a neighbor and the base unit turned on at your home. If the security or smoke alarms go off, or if your neighbors hear something they shouldn't, they can immediately call 911.

    Deadbolts and New Entrance Locks

 Regardless of the strength of your doors, an intruder can still gain entry if the locks you use are not adequate. Since there are several standard measurements for locking mechanisms, the bored holes on your door and frame may not always match the new lock to be installed. When possible, try to match the holes or enlarge existing holes. There is hardware available that aids in adaptation to existing holes. If all this fails, you will need to install a new door. 


Four commonly used lock systems are described below and illustrated here. I recommend installing the key-in-knob or the deadbolt for the best security and the most ease for the do-it- yourselfer. 

  1. Key-In-knob locks. These are the most common exterior door locks, but they can be easily jimmied. Better ones have a hardened steel pin with the beveled latch. This is called a deadlocking latch.

  2.  Deadbolt locks. These are an excellent way to add entrance security. Look for a bolt of at least one inch; a rotating steel pin within the bolt for hacksaw resistance; and a free-spinning brass cover over the outside cylinder which resists wrenches.

  3. Full mortise locks. Almost always these have to be installed by a professional locksmith. They offer double lock protection, including a deadbolt.

   4.    Rim-mounted locks. These are sometimes called “vertical deadbolts.” They mount to the interior surface of the door

           and serve as a good second lock because of their ability to resist prying



Foiling Alley Rats


To your average urban burglar, an alley resembles a smorgasbord. Garages hold all kinds of goodies (from bikes to power tools), they sometimes provide easy entrance to the home and, best of all for a thief, they're rarely occupied. So make sure to thwart those easy access routes into your garage by putting sturdy locks on doors and windows. Here's another precaution: If you can, change the frequency on your electric-door opener. Police routinely report that thieves



Going in Motion


Now that it's getting darker sooner, you'll want to return home at night to a lighted outside, but you don't want to leave the lights on all day long. Then consider motion-detector outdoor fixtures that light up only when you approach the house. This saves money by only paying to light up your driveway or backyard when you're actually using it, not to mention the fact that you'll make your home more resistant to burglars, too.




Alarm Systems


Modem electronics has improved our quality of life in many ways. For example, electronic alarms have become very popular within the last decade. Their popularity is well earned, since they are both effective and affordable. Be careful, however, to not put all of your faith into them. When combined with other safety measures discussed in this chapter, they will make your house relatively secure. But if you rely totally on alarm systems, you will be vulnerable.


Professional burglars know how to silence or incapacitate even the most complicated alarm systems. Most home burglars are not really professional. Remote alarms - alarms that ring only at the police station or at a private security office often allow burglars time to get away before help arrives. Also, false alarms are becoming so common that a lot of alarms are ignored. Local Bells or sirens, mounted both inside and outside the house, are preferable in conjunction with remote alarms.


There are several different types of alarm systems on the market. Some of these are well suited to the do-it-yourselfer, while others are best left to a professional alarm company. You need to consider seriously your family's lifestyle when you choose an alarm system. Motion sensor detectors will not work well if you have pets. If you have several children, or overnight guests or other visitors, alarm systems that demand you enter codes upon entering and leaving your home may not work.


I remember visiting my brother and entering her house alone late one night The soft buzzer went off on the alarm system, indicating that I had ten seconds to enter the code before the alarm would blast. I had forgotten the code and stood there helplessly in the hallway as the alarm woke my brother's family as well as all the neighbors. If the police's or security company's response time is too slow you will need an alarm that rings at the house, thereby warning the neighbors.


As you review the different types of alarm systems, determine which one will work best for you. Be sure to buy a high-quality system. Hopefully, you will never need it, but, when you do, you will want it to work properly.


All systems have three basic components: the alarm itself, the sensor that senses the intrusion, and the control that causes the alarm to engage once the intrusion has occurred. These systems can be either battery operated or operated off the electrical currents in the house. The battery-operated units, though easy to install, often are not sophisticated enough to satisfy all your needs.




Self-Contained Alarm Systems


These have the alarm, control, and sensor all in one unit. They are mostly used in small houses offices, or apartments where there are a limited number of doors and windows. Sometimes these are as simple as a cigarette box- size alarm that hangs on the door or chain guard and that activates in the case of an intrusion. Others can be plugged into any wall outlet and are activated with a simple motion detector.


The more sophisticated models may work off a change in air pressure (as when a door or window is opened) or off of high-frequency sound waves. These units are less expensive and easier to install than some others. Their drawbacks are that burglars can quickly locate them (since the alarm is with the control). Also, the ones that work off of air pressure or sound waves can often give a false alarm resulting from noisy upstairs neighbors or high winds.




Alarm Systems with Separate Components


These units separate the sensor from the control and from the alarm and work well where you want to guard several rooms at once. Individual sensors (often a metallic tape with a current running through it) can be placed at the windows and doors, and the alarm and control hidden from the burglar. This makes it much more difficult for the burglar to dismantle the system. These units often have several control stations around the house so that you can activate or deactivate all or part of your sensors.


Some units even tell you which doors and windows are open or closed. They also have panic buttons that can be used when you think you hear someone prowling around out- side. These systems are usually activated and deactivated by a code and can alarm at the house or the police station (or security office) or both. Also, some alarms can be wired to automatically dial a number and give a recorded message. You can change the number it dials and be reached wherever you are, in case the house is burning or you have been robbed. If you are installing an alarm, put decals on your doors that tell burglars your house is alarm equipped. They will probably go away.



The Home Security Survey


The place to start in implementing home security measures is a security survey done by a professional. Usually a local police force will send a security expert out to a home to walk the house and grounds with the owner. If this service is not available in your community, they may provide you with pamphlets or other materials that will allow you to do your own survey. Several books are on the market as well. Also, if you plan to have a professional install an alarm system, the company will often perform the survey Be careful, because they might have a hidden agenda to sell you a more expensive security system than you need. 


To really do the survey correctly, you need to think like a burglar. Imagine that you want to break into your home without getting caught Where would you enter? When? How? What do you think would give you away? 


A little imagination on your part will lead you to the following conclusions:

  1. Your points of entry—doors and windows are where you are most vulnerable.

  2. Burglars fear two things: being heard, and being seen.


Almost all home security is focused around these two facts, the mainstays in all burglary work.


A walk around your home, preferably with a professional, should quickly point out to you your weaknesses in home security. If you are like most of us, locking yourself out from time to time, you probably already know these points of vulnerability You probably know as well just how easy it really is to break into most homes.


Windows are the most vulnerable point of entry. Your windows and screens may be equipped with the standard, older (sometimes newer) types of screens and window latches. These are often inadequate in deterring a burglar. The common window latch can be opened from the outside with a butter knife and just five seconds; the screens require a penknife and an additional five seconds.


Many doors are equipped with simple spring locks. These can be opened with a credit card or a knife. Even if they are equipped with a more secure deadbolt, if the frame of the door is not se- cure, a forceful shove can often break the wooden frame and trim around the door. Walk through your home and make a list of all your vulnerable areas, especially those easily accessible from the ground, including the first floor, basement windows, and doors. Also check out second-floor entry points that are quickly accessible with the use of a ladder.


Ask yourself, What would make my house a house a burglar would not want to hit? (Park the Jaguar in the back the VW in the front) Are there high bushes for burglars to hide in? Are there areas of the house that are well hidden? Is there inadequate lighting? Are there several vulnerable points of entry? Are there valuable items in plain view through first-floor windows?


If burglars believe they would be in full view of neighbors, you can be sure they will avoid your home. You may need to cut back some shrubs. If you live where there are no neighbors close by, noise from an alarm system is your best deterrent. At night, outdoor lighting is recommended.


Also, check to see if your exterior doors are hollow core or the more durable solid or metal doors. Do any trees offer easy access to second-story windows? Are sliding-glass or garage doors vulnerable? What type of windows do you have? Are they vulnerable? After you complete your security survey, you are ready to make some decisions concerning what security measures you want to implement. This section discusses ways of installing these measures yourself.




How to Child-Proof Your Home


Years ago, parents never really thought about "baby proofing" their home. That's because back then there wasn't as much danger lurking in every corner as there is today. Luckily, all it takes is some basic common sense and a few simple procedures to make your home safe. In the end, some parts of your house may look a little prison-esque with new latches and guards, but it's worth the peace of mind.


Your living space is loaded with all kinds of possible land mines for little ones. Check out the list of danger spots below, then conduct a simple experiment: Crawl around your house on your hands and knees to see it through the eyes of a toddler. Chances are, you'll spot problem areas you'd normally overlook. Then (on just your two feet this time) visit the babyproofing section of your local hardware store for all their safety solutions. They're easy to install, but be sure to double check each device to make sure it works. Of course, you'll still want to keep an eye on your child. After all, tots can be pretty resourceful...just think of how they open "childproof" caps.


What You Need:

  • All the appropriate babyproofing equipment

  • Basic installation tools including drill, hammer, screwdrivers, etc.


Area: Electrical outlets
Danger: Shock
Solution: Safety plugs that cover the outlet when not in use. Also, if you must use extension cords, make sure the outlet-part isn't easily accessible; run it high up on a wall or behind heavy furniture.


Area: Windows
Danger: Falling out
Solution: Latches that lock to the frame and keep the window from opening wide enough for your child to fit through. Also, if your sash cords dangle near the floor, install a hook to hang them higher up--they're a strangulation risk.


Area: Doors
Danger: Access to other dangers
Solution: Make sure all your doors close tightly and that handles can't be reached by little ones climbing on nearby chairs or other perches. If they can, put a simple hook-and-eye safety latch high up on the frame.


Area: Drawers
Danger: Slammed fingers and sometimes worse...finding what's inside the drawers
Solution: Safety latches, installed at the top of the drawer, keep the drawer from opening more than a half-inch or so, unless you reach inside to trigger the latch.


Area: Stairways and ledges
Danger: Falling and sliding
Solution: Gates at the top of the stairs, and at the bottom if your child tends to crawl up the stairs when unsupervised.


Area: Stair railings
Danger: Falling
Solution: If the gap between railings on a stairway or at the landing is wide enough to crawl through you should rig a device to stop kids from doing so. Try netting or ropes (we warned you that this may not be pretty, didn't we?).


Area: Toilet
Danger: Drowning
Solution: Latches that mount onto the basin can keep the lid closed when it's not in use. (And, no, we don't have any tips on training the man of the house to close the lid.)


Area: Bathtub
Danger: Drowning and bruising
Solution: Add non-slip mats on the bottom of the tub and soft-foam spout covers to avoid contact with the metal that can cause cuts and contusions.


Area: Medicine cabinet
Danger: Drug overdose
Solution: Keep the most dangerous medicines at the top of the cabinet or, better yet, in a separate locked container. And keep in mind that to a small child even something "safe," like vitamins or aspirin, is OD material.


Area: Stove
Danger: Burning
Solution: Knob covers on the stove can foil a child playing with fire, but also make sure a child can't crawl along the counter to the burners.


Area: Cleaning-supplies closet
Danger: Poisoning
Solution: Latches and locks keep the door from opening but, just to be safe, we suggest moving all cleaning products to high, inaccessible spots. They're poisonous enough to kill you, who probably outweighs your kid by at least 500 percent.


Area: Shelves, TV stands, etc.
Danger: Falling objects
Solution: Brackets that attach the shelf or appliance to a wall (or other stable surface) keep them from falling on a kid who climbs up it. Again, think about this when doing "the crawl-through inspection."




Window Security

Windows are perhaps as popular as doors are as entry points for burglars. Unfortunately, they are much harder to secure than doors, because the glass can always be broken. There are several approaches you can take to reduce the threat of entry through your windows. Attaching them to a central alarm system is one of the best ways to do this.

Also, the glass can be replaced with tempered glass or polycarbonate, but this is costly. Metal bars can be in- stalled over the windows, but it doesn't enhance your view and can be a real life-threatening situation in case of fire. Unless you plan to use one of these techniques, perhaps the best way is to install security latches and other such devices onto your windows. These are inexpensive and easy to install and will usually deter burglars, unless they are willing to break the glass despite the noise.

You may think that the older type of locks on your windows are effective, but often this is not the case. These clasp locks can be opened with a butter knife or spatula inserted between the two windows. There are several different types of window locks on the market. All are relatively easy to install. Some locks even allow you to leave the window locked in a partially opened position, if you want to leave some of them open when you leave home. Battery operated alarm locks are also available for windows.

Keyed locks for windows are sometimes used. These have one drawback in that, in case of fire, they are hard to open if you cannot find your key. Casement windows, which have cranks, can be secured by simply removing the handle. Leave it in an accessible place in case of fire. You may need to secure only the windows on the first floor, if you feel the second- and third-floor windows are not vulnerable.

Also, make note of air conditioners or fans installed in windows. Often these can be removed by a burglar. Be sure the units are bolted to the house in such a way that they cannot be removed from the outside. And be sure that the window cannot be raised. 


No Light Concern

During the day, chances are someone would notice a burglar trying to force open your first-floor window or kicking in your back door. But at nighttime the criminal has a convenient cover of darkness to help commit his crime. So a smart and easy home defense is to install security lights that bathe your home and its surroundings at night. Some lights are motion-sensitive; others turn on when it gets dark; a third category works off a timer. Whatever type you choose, each can make your house less inviting to burglars and a lot safer for you.


   Installing Video Security Cameras

Security cameras are becoming an increasingly popular way for the public to protect property and people. Once considered the exclusive realm of the rich, video surveillance, like most high-tech products, has become increasingly affordable.

Gone are the days when a business would install "dummy" cameras as a deterrent because of the liability and law suits which have resulted from this practice. Rather, most video security systems almost always consist of several cameras, even if only one is visible. They can be concealed in many places, including smoke detectors, telephones, exit signs and even in the frames of artwork hanging on the wall.

It is also possible to have remote monitoring, allowing someone with the proper equipment installed on their personal computer to look in on a video surveillance system at another location. This is is a feature offered to parents at a growing number of daycare centers and is becoming increasingly popular for parents who want to check on their older kids who are home alone after school, etc.

Cameras can be watched live from a monitor or recorded onto videotape. It is even possible to record sound at the same time, although signs warning consumers that they are being filmed and recorded must be posted on the doors in all public places that use audio and video systems. There are no such requirements in private homes.

   Copyright 1999-2003, ServiceMagic, Inc. All Rights Reserved.



  Safes and Hiding Places 

After you have taken all possible precautions to keep burglars from breaking into your home, you may want to consider taking some other precautions to keep them from locating valuables, if they do break in. This can be done by hiding valuables or placing them in safes so that, even if they are located, they cannot be removed. Nowadays there are some very simple hiding devices available that are inexpensive and clever. There are some mail order catalogues, for example, from which you can order a small container that looks like a head of lettuce, put your valuables in it, and place it in the refrigerator.

Unless the burglar decides to make a salad or is aware of such new gimmicks, you're safe. Similar containers are available as soft drink cans and hollow books. You can buy hollow electrical outlet boxes as well An imaginative tour of your home may reveal many other effective hiding places. Remember, burglars often don't have much time to search, so they usually grab what they see or can quickly find.

If you feel it's worth the effort, you can strengthen a closet to serve as a small vault. This can be done simply by installing a metal or solid wood door and a couple of deadbolts. It is a good idea to line the interior with plywood, since drywall can be easily busted through. If you have an older home with wide (6" - 12") baseboards, you can remove a section, hollow out the areas between the studs, put small valuables in, and tack the baseboard in place.

Many models and sizes of residential safes are available. Though somewhat more expensive than these other devices, they can be effective if properly installed. Smaller ones concreted into place are an excellent deterrent But remember, a safe will only serve to alert a burglar to what's inside, so be sure it is well secured.

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     3. Get FREE mold advice, mold help, and/or answers to your mold questions, by emailing mold expert Phillip Fry at You can also email pictures of your mold problems in jpeg file format as email attachments.


Helpful Environmental & Health Websites
| Mold Attorney | Caribbean Mold InspectionCertified Hygienists DirectoryCertified Mold Inspectors Directory | Condominium Mold Inspection | Environmental ProductsEnvironmental Hygienist Training | Factory Mould Inspection |Government Building Mold InspectionHospital Mold InspectionHotel Mold Inspection | Inspector Del MoldeLos Angeles Mold Inspection | |Miami Mold TestingMold Inspector Training | Mold Inspection | Mold Inspector | Mold Inspector Training | Mold Products and Services |Mold School | Mold TrainingMold Training And Certification | Office Mold Inspection | Orange County Mold InspectionPublic Building Mold Inspection | Sacramento Mold Inspection | San Diego Home Inspection | San Diego Mold Inspection | San Francisco Mold Inspection | San Jose Mold Inspection | School Mold Inspection | Senior Housing Mold Inspection |Store Mold InspectionToxic Mold Inspection | Toxic Mold Inspector | Warehouse Mold Inspection | Natural Supplements | Dietary Supplements | Male Performance Supplement | Tongkat Ali | Hong Kong Sex Pills | China Mould Testing | Air Conditioning Mold | Mold Test Kits | Ozone Blasting | Ozone Generator | Household Mold Removal | Workplace Mold | Mold Health | Mold Remediation Safety Gear Home Repair |  Home Renovation | Home Remodeling |

Find Hidden Toxic Mold Growth by inspecting inside walls, ceilings, and heating/cooling ducts and equipment with your own Video PRO Inspection Scope


Buy Boric Acid as a Non-Toxic and Natural
 Way To Remove, Kill and Prevent Household Mold and Toxic Mold, as well as Kill Cockroaches



Do-It-Best-Yourself Mold Solutions

Phil can help you fix your own property’s mold problems at low-cost, more safely, and better-in- results than what is done by many mold inspectors and mold contractors.  How can Phil help you?

     1. Read Phil’s five plain-English,
mold advice books to master mold inspection, testing, removal, remediation, and prevention for your house, condo, apartment, office,  or workplace.

     2. Buy do-it-yourself, affordable mold test kits, mold lab analysis, video inspection scope, mold cleaner, mold killer,
and a mold-killing high ozone generator for the  successful toxic and household mold inspection, mold testing, mold species identification and quantification, mold cleaning, mold removal, and mold remediation to find mold, kill mold, clean mold, and remove mold from your residence or commercial building.

     3. Get FREE mold advice, mold help, and/or answers to your mold questions, by emailing mold expert Phillip Fry at . You can also email pictures of your mold problems in jpeg file format as email attachments.

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