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Alarm System Safety
Don’t leave a key outside
your home even if you think it’s well hidden. Instead leave one with a
trusted neighbor or friend. An experienced intruder can uncover most places
you might hide a key. Make sure you close and lock all doors and windows
that are accessible from outside your home.
Leave a light on in your home at night after you retire. Lighting is a
deterrent to intruders and should be used when you’re away from your home.
Timers are inexpensive and can make potential intruders wonder whether the
home is occupied. A timer should control a radio when you’re away as well.
Deadbolt locks should be used on all doors. Windows should be well secured
with latches available from your local hardware store. You might also
consider shatterproof glass.
Make sure you replace the batteries in your smoke detectors on a regular
basis. A good time to do this is when you set your clocks forward in the
spring. You should periodically check your locks to see if they’ve been
tampered with.
Don’t admit anyone to your home that you’re not expecting. In the event that
a person represents themselves as an official employee of a utility or
public agency, ask for identification and don’t be reluctant to refuse entry
if you can’t verify by telephone that they are who they say. Use a chain and
peephole whenever answering your door.
Test your alarm system at least monthly, we would recommend weekly.
Make sure to have a friend or neighbor pick up your mail and any newspapers
or packages when you leave your home unattended.
Arm your alarm system, whenever you leave the home and when you retire for
the night
Courtesy of
NextAlarm.com: Home Security Products and Alarm Monitoring Services
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Automatic Renewal for Monitoring Services: A Benefit or
Detriment?
Recently, there has been much discussion on the topic of automatic renewal
for alarm monitoring services. Many experts believe the process of
automatic renewal for monitoring services is a valuable asset. However,
while clearly an alarm system is a very useful instrument in deterring
crime, I would, argue that the automatic renewal clause solely benefits the
monitoring service provider.
Industry lenders extend credit, in part, using the assumption that the
subscriber will continue to pay for service at the base rate or higher, for
a period extending beyond the initial contract term. Attrition projections
assume that most customers will do nothing at the end of the initial
contract term and therefore renew by default.
The typical situation used to promote the automatic renewal of alarm
monitoring services describes a subscriber’s failure to call the alarm
company on Monday to renew their service, being cut off on Tuesday and being
burglarized on Wednesday. However, this is not an example of real world,
alarm company, accounts receivable dynamics.
In fact, where there is no automatic renewal clause in place, no contract at
all, or even an extended failure to pay by the subscriber, general industry
practice is to carry the customer for several months, while escalating the
collection process. Very few, if indeed any, central stations will
knowingly fail to respond to an alarm signal, without several notification
attempts by mail, telephone and finally certified mail with return receipt.
We as an industry should, in my opinion, consider crediting our customers
with a modicum of intelligence and the ability to choose. The fact is that
after a subscriber’s initial contract term has been met, the subscriber is
free to choose another monitoring service provider or indeed no provider at
all.
In general, satisfied customers will continue to pay for their alarm
service, whether or not an automatic renewal clause exists in their
contract. Unhappy customers will not only fail to renew but in many
cases attempt to leave before completing the term of the contract.
Courtesy of
NextAlarm.com: Home Security Products and Alarm Monitoring Services
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Converting An
Alarm System Monitoring Firm - FAQS
What is the
cost of converting my system from one alarm-monitoring vendor to another?
In most cases there is no cost for the conversion. This is usually
predicated on the ability to download new data to your alarm system's
control panel. In most instances, if your system cannot be downloaded, a
trained technical support personnel will attempt to walk you through a
process that will enable reprogramming of your system to accept downloading.
This is usually done from your alarm system keypad and sometimes done from
the alarm control panel. If your system is still unable to be downloaded,
the next option is usually an in-home service call. Your system will be
reprogrammed on-site to accept downloading and the on-site service
technician will also thoroughly test the system. The cost for this on-site
service is generally $50.00 to $75.00, depending upon location and the time
required.
How long does it take to
convert my alarm system?
If your system can be downloaded, then converting your system can usually be
accomplished within 24 hours. If you use an answering machine, fax machine
or modem on the same telephone line your alarm system is connected to, then
you may be need to be available on the phone for a few minutes to complete
the conversion process.
How do I know
my system works properly after conversion?
After the conversion is completed, you will immediately be asked to test
your system. You should test your system at least monthly. We recommend
weekly.
Is my
Security System connected to local police and fire departments?
Consistent with most local laws, your alarm system does not directly connect
to local emergency response agencies. Instead, most security systems utilize
your pre-existing telephone line as the primary communication link to an
alarm company’s 24-hour call center facilities.
What will the
response time be?
When your alarm activates, call centers respond immediately. And, consistent
with local laws, will notify police, fire or ambulance services after
verifying a true emergency. Please note: Some local governments have placed
various conditions or restrictions on their response policies and do not
dispatch emergency personnel based solely on alarm signals. You should
contact your local government, police or fire department to determine
response policies.
Suppose the
electricity goes out?
Most alarm systems use equipment that includes back-up batteries to provide
a secondary power supply for your security system. In the event electricity
fails, the system automatically switches to the battery. Most secondary
power supplies will recharge once electricity is restored to the system. For
specific information concerning use of the secondary power supply, please
consult your alarm system user manual.
What if I
forget the code that arms/disarms my system?
In the event you cannot remember your access code, please contact your Alarm
Company’s Customer Service Department. Most companies have representatives
available 24/7 to assist you with changing the code.
What if my
alarm system needs service?
Most companies will attempt to resolve any problems by telephone or by
downloading to your alarm control panel. If this is unsuccessful, you
generally have the option of an in-home service call by a trained
technician. The cost of this is generally $50.00 to $75.00 depending upon
location and the time required.
Courtesy of
NextAlarm.com: Home Security Products and Alarm Monitoring Services
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Installing
a Home Alarm System
Home alarm
systems fall into two general categories: hard wired and wireless alarm
systems.
For
DoItYourselfers, wireless alarm systems are more easily installed and can be
added to or moved to a new location with ease. Hardwired systems, on the
other hand, have a lower equipment cost, but are more time consuming to
install and require the ability to hide wires in walls for a neat
installation.
The typical
alarm system, as sold to most middle income homes by alarm dealers, consists
of the following components:
Major alarm
companies and their authorized dealers, using telemarketing, direct mail,
media advertising and other marketing techniques, market these alarm
systems.
The cost of
these alarm systems, both wired and wireless to the consumer is as follows:
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Installation fee: Free to $199.95 depending on
optional equipment bought by the customer.
-
Monthly fee: $29.95 – $39.95 presented as the
“monitoring” fee, more on this below
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Term of contract: 2 – 5 years
The average
system profile for the median home:
-
Monthly Fee: $34.95
-
System type: hard wired
Average dealer
cost for this system:
Once the system
is installed and the consumer has signed the term contract, the dealer sells
the contract to the major alarm company that he represents. Typically the
dealer receives 32 times the monthly fee for the sale. This fee is known in
the traded as RMR (recurring monthly revenue).
The contract
that the customer signs, although presented, as a “service agreement” is in
reality a form of financing, with no interest limitations. In some cases
the contract includes in-home service, but in most cases service is billed
after the initial warranty period of 90 days to 1 year has passed.
Service on
modern alarm systems is minimal; in fact most consumers never see a
technician after the installation is complete other than to add devices to
the system.
Monitoring of
the alarm system is included in the monthly fee.
In our examples
shown above the dealer would receive:
-
Dealer cost: $625.00 - $700.00
-
Contract sale: 32 X $34.95 = $1118.40
-
Gross profit = $418.40 - 493.40
In actual fact,
most homeowners or apartment dwellers can easily install a wireless alarm
system themselves, of the same quality and even the same brand as
professionally installed alarm systems and save themselves hundreds of
dollars on installation fees.
Additionally,
low cost alarm service monitoring can be obtained from reputable established
companies at a cost significantly less than the monthly fee charged by major
alarm companies and their dealers. Most will require a term contract or
prepayment of 1 year or more, however others may bill on a month-to-month
basis with no term contract.
The result for
DoItYourselfers is a security system purchased at reasonable cost, without
any long-term commitment for monitoring and providing exactly the same
benefits as a professionally installed system.
Courtesy of
NextAlarm.com: Home Security Products and Alarm Monitoring Services
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Secrets About How the
Alarm Industry Overcharges
Why you are
paying more than $29.95 per month.
More than
likely, you signed up for your home alarm system on a two-year contract with
an independent dealer. The dealer then sold, that's right, SOLD your
contract to the major Alarm Company. The dealer was paid upwards of $900.00
for your contract.
Why would the alarm company be willing to pay $900 for a two-year contract
worth only $720?
Here’s the
industry’s little secret:
The Alarm
Company
knows you'll pay the bill month after month, without question, even after
the initial term of the contract has expired. In fact, studies show that
customers continue to pay this rate for seven and one half years on average.
Courtesy of
NextAlarm.com: Home Security Products and Alarm Monitoring Services
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Become Unappealing to
Thieves
Nothing ruins a great getaway like coming home to
realize you've had unwelcome house guests. To help avoid being burglarized
take the following pre-vacation steps:
-
Call the post office to
stop mail and suspend newspaper delivery
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Get a few timers to turn
several lights, the TV or radio on and off during the day and night
-
If you have a second car,
park it in the driveway
-
If you'll be gone long,
ask a neighbor to put some of their trash in your garbage cans
-
Ask a friend or neighbor
to house sit by dropping by regularly and checking up on things and
picking up junk mail and flyers that can accumulate. (Remember to describe
this house sitter to your neighbors, so burglars can't claim to be house
sitting and house sitters don't get arrested.)
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If you have a baby
monitor, leave the monitor with a neighbor and the base unit turned on at
your home. If the security or smoke alarms go off, or if your neighbors
hear something they shouldn't, they can immediately call 911.
Deadbolts and New Entrance
Locks
Regardless
of the strength of your doors, an intruder can still gain entry if the locks
you use are not adequate. Since there are several standard measurements for
locking mechanisms, the bored holes on your door and frame may not always
match the new lock to be installed. When possible, try to match the holes or
enlarge existing holes. There is hardware available that aids in adaptation
to existing holes. If all this fails, you will need to install a new door.
Four commonly used lock
systems are described below and illustrated here. I recommend installing the
key-in-knob or the deadbolt for the best security and the most ease for the
do-it- yourselfer.
-
Key-In-knob locks.
These are the most common exterior door locks, but they can be easily
jimmied. Better ones have a hardened steel pin with the beveled latch.
This is called a deadlocking latch.
-
Deadbolt locks.
These are an excellent way to add entrance security. Look for a bolt of at
least one inch; a rotating steel pin within the bolt for hacksaw
resistance; and a free-spinning brass cover over the outside cylinder
which resists wrenches.
-
Full mortise locks.
Almost always these have to be installed by a professional locksmith. They
offer double lock protection, including a deadbolt.
4.
Rim-mounted locks.
These are sometimes called “vertical deadbolts.” They mount to the interior
surface of the door
and
serve as a good second lock because of their ability to resist prying
Foiling Alley Rats
To your average urban burglar, an alley resembles a
smorgasbord. Garages hold all kinds of goodies (from bikes to power tools),
they sometimes provide easy entrance to the home and, best of all for a
thief, they're rarely occupied. So make sure to thwart those easy access
routes into your garage by putting sturdy locks on doors and windows. Here's
another precaution: If you can, change the frequency on your electric-door
opener. Police routinely report that thieves
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Going in
Motion
Now that it's getting darker sooner, you'll want
to return home at night to a lighted outside, but you don't want to leave
the lights on all day long. Then consider motion-detector outdoor fixtures
that light up only when you approach the house. This saves money by only
paying to light up your driveway or backyard when you're actually using it,
not to mention the fact that you'll make your home more resistant to
burglars, too.
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Alarm
Systems
Modem
electronics has improved our quality of life in many ways. For example,
electronic alarms have become very popular within the last decade. Their
popularity is well earned, since they are both effective and affordable. Be
careful, however, to not put all of your faith into them. When combined with
other safety measures discussed in this chapter, they will make your house
relatively secure. But if you rely totally on alarm systems, you will be
vulnerable.
Professional
burglars know how to silence or incapacitate even the most complicated alarm
systems. Most home burglars are not really professional. Remote alarms -
alarms that ring only at the police station or at a private security office
often allow burglars time to get away before help arrives. Also, false
alarms are becoming so common that a lot of alarms are ignored. Local Bells
or sirens, mounted both inside and outside the house, are preferable in
conjunction with remote alarms.
There are several different types of alarm
systems on the market. Some of these are well suited to the
do-it-yourselfer, while others are best left to a professional alarm
company. You need to consider seriously your family's lifestyle when you
choose an alarm system. Motion sensor detectors will not work well if you
have pets. If you have several children, or overnight guests or other
visitors, alarm systems that demand you enter codes upon entering and
leaving your home may not work.
I remember visiting my brother and entering her
house alone late one night The soft buzzer went off on the alarm system,
indicating that I had ten seconds to enter the code before the alarm would
blast. I had forgotten the code and stood there helplessly in the hallway as
the alarm woke my brother's family as well as all the neighbors. If the
police's or security company's response time is too slow you will need an
alarm that rings at the house, thereby warning the neighbors.
As you review
the different types of alarm systems, determine which one will work best for
you. Be sure to buy a high-quality system. Hopefully, you will never need
it, but, when you do, you will want it to work properly.
All systems
have three basic components: the alarm itself, the sensor that senses the
intrusion, and the control that causes the alarm to engage once the
intrusion has occurred. These systems can be either battery operated or
operated off the electrical currents in the house. The battery-operated
units, though easy to install, often are not sophisticated enough to satisfy
all your needs.
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Self-Contained Alarm Systems
These have the alarm, control, and sensor all in
one unit. They are mostly used in small houses offices, or apartments where
there are a limited number of doors and windows. Sometimes these are as
simple as a cigarette box- size alarm that hangs on the door or chain guard
and that activates in the case of an intrusion. Others can be plugged into
any wall outlet and are activated with a simple motion detector.
The more
sophisticated models may work off a change in air pressure (as when a door
or window is opened) or off of high-frequency sound waves. These units are less expensive and easier to
install than some others. Their drawbacks are that burglars can quickly
locate them (since the alarm is with the control). Also, the ones that work
off of air pressure or sound waves can often give a false alarm resulting
from noisy upstairs neighbors or high winds.
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Alarm
Systems with Separate Components
These units separate the sensor from the control
and from the alarm and work well where you want to guard several rooms at
once. Individual sensors (often a metallic tape with a current running
through it) can be placed at the windows and doors, and the alarm and
control hidden from the burglar. This makes it much more difficult for the
burglar to dismantle the system.
These units
often have several control stations around the house so that you can
activate or deactivate all or part of your sensors.
Some units even tell you
which doors and windows are open or closed. They also have panic buttons
that can be used when you think you hear someone prowling around out- side.
These systems are usually activated and deactivated by a code and can alarm
at the house or the police station (or security office) or both. Also, some
alarms can be wired to automatically dial a number and give a recorded
message. You can change the number it dials and be reached wherever you are,
in case the house is burning or you have been robbed. If you are installing
an alarm, put decals on your doors that tell burglars your house is alarm
equipped. They will probably go away.
The Home
Security Survey
The place to
start in implementing home security measures is a security survey done by a
professional. Usually a local police force will send a security expert out
to a home to walk the house and grounds with the owner. If this service is
not available in your community, they may provide you with pamphlets or
other materials that will allow you to do your own survey. Several books are
on the market as well. Also, if you plan to have a professional install an
alarm system, the company will often perform the survey Be careful, because
they might have a hidden agenda to sell you a more expensive security system
than you need.
To really do
the survey correctly, you need to think like a burglar. Imagine that you
want to break into your home without getting caught Where would you enter?
When? How? What do you think would give you away?
A little
imagination on your part will lead you to the following conclusions:
-
Your points of entry—doors and windows are where
you are most vulnerable.
-
Burglars fear two things: being heard, and being
seen.
Almost all home
security is focused around these two facts, the mainstays in all burglary
work.
A walk around
your home, preferably with a professional, should quickly point out to you
your weaknesses in home security. If you are like most of us, locking
yourself out from time to time, you probably already know these points of
vulnerability You probably know as well just how easy it really is to break
into most homes.
Windows
are the most vulnerable point of entry. Your windows and screens may be
equipped with the standard, older (sometimes newer) types of screens and
window latches. These are often inadequate in deterring a burglar. The
common window latch can be opened from the outside with a
butter knife and just five seconds; the screens require a penknife and an
additional five seconds.
Many doors are
equipped with simple spring locks. These can be opened with a credit card or
a knife. Even if they are equipped with a more secure deadbolt, if the frame
of the door is not se- cure, a forceful shove can often break the wooden
frame and trim around the door. Walk through your home and make a list of
all your vulnerable areas, especially those easily accessible from the
ground, including the first floor, basement windows, and doors. Also check
out second-floor entry points that are quickly accessible with the use of a
ladder.
Ask yourself,
What would make my house a house a burglar would not want to hit? (Park the
Jaguar in the back the VW in the front) Are there high bushes for burglars
to hide in? Are there areas of the house that are well hidden? Is there
inadequate lighting? Are there several vulnerable points of entry? Are there
valuable items in plain view through first-floor windows?
If burglars
believe they would be in full view of neighbors, you can be sure they will
avoid your home. You may need to cut back some shrubs. If you live where
there are no neighbors close by, noise from an alarm system is your best
deterrent. At night, outdoor lighting is recommended.
Also, check to
see if your exterior doors are hollow core or the more durable solid or
metal doors. Do any trees offer easy access to second-story windows? Are
sliding-glass or garage doors vulnerable? What type of windows do you have?
Are they vulnerable? After you complete your security survey, you are ready
to make some decisions concerning what security measures you want to
implement. This section discusses ways of installing these measures
yourself.
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How to
Child-Proof Your Home
Years ago, parents never really thought about
"baby proofing" their home. That's because back then there wasn't as much
danger lurking in every corner as there is today. Luckily, all it takes is
some basic common sense and a few simple procedures to make your home safe.
In the end, some parts of your house may look a little prison-esque with new
latches and guards, but it's worth the peace of mind.
Your living
space is loaded with all kinds of possible land mines for little ones. Check
out the list of danger spots below, then conduct a simple experiment: Crawl
around your house on your hands and knees to see it through the eyes of a
toddler. Chances are, you'll spot problem areas you'd normally overlook.
Then (on just your two feet this time) visit the babyproofing section of
your local hardware store for all their safety solutions. They're easy to
install, but be sure to double check each device to make sure it works. Of
course, you'll still want to keep an eye on your child. After all, tots can
be pretty resourceful...just think of how they open "childproof" caps.
What You
Need:
-
All the appropriate babyproofing equipment
-
Basic installation tools including drill,
hammer, screwdrivers, etc.
-
Area:
Electrical outlets
Danger: Shock
Solution: Safety plugs that cover the outlet when not in use. Also, if you
must use extension cords, make sure the outlet-part isn't easily accessible;
run it high up on a wall or behind heavy furniture.
Area:
Windows
Danger: Falling out
Solution: Latches that lock to the frame and keep the window from opening
wide enough for your child to fit through. Also, if your sash cords dangle
near the floor, install a hook to hang them higher up--they're a
strangulation risk.
Area:
Doors
Danger: Access to other dangers
Solution: Make sure all your doors close tightly and that handles can't be
reached by little ones climbing on nearby chairs or other perches. If they
can, put a simple hook-and-eye safety latch high up on the frame.
Area:
Drawers
Danger: Slammed fingers and sometimes worse...finding what's inside the
drawers
Solution: Safety latches, installed at the top of the drawer, keep the
drawer from opening more than a half-inch or so, unless you reach inside to
trigger the latch.
Area:
Stairways and ledges
Danger: Falling and sliding
Solution: Gates at the top of the stairs, and at the bottom if your child
tends to crawl up the stairs when unsupervised.
Area:
Stair railings
Danger: Falling
Solution: If the gap between railings on a stairway or at the landing is
wide enough to crawl through you should rig a device to stop kids from doing
so. Try netting or ropes (we warned you that this may not be pretty, didn't
we?).
Area:
Toilet
Danger: Drowning
Solution: Latches that mount onto the basin can keep the lid closed when
it's not in use. (And, no, we don't have any tips on training the man of the
house to close the lid.)
Area:
Bathtub
Danger: Drowning and bruising
Solution: Add non-slip mats on the bottom of the tub and soft-foam spout
covers to avoid contact with the metal that can cause cuts and contusions.
Area:
Medicine cabinet
Danger: Drug overdose
Solution: Keep the most dangerous medicines at the top of the cabinet or,
better yet, in a separate locked container. And keep in mind that to a small
child even something "safe," like vitamins or aspirin, is OD material.
Area:
Stove
Danger: Burning
Solution: Knob covers on the stove can foil a child playing with fire, but
also make sure a child can't crawl along the counter to the burners.
Area:
Cleaning-supplies closet
Danger: Poisoning
Solution: Latches and locks keep the door from opening but, just to be safe,
we suggest moving all cleaning products to high, inaccessible spots. They're
poisonous enough to kill you, who probably outweighs your kid by at least
500 percent.
Area:
Shelves, TV stands, etc.
Danger: Falling objects
Solution: Brackets that attach the shelf or appliance to a wall (or other
stable surface) keep them from falling on a kid who climbs up it. Again,
think about this when doing "the crawl-through inspection."
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Window
Security
Windows are
perhaps as popular as doors are as entry points for burglars. Unfortunately,
they are much harder to secure than doors, because the glass can always be
broken. There are several approaches you can take to reduce the threat of
entry through your windows. Attaching them to a central alarm system is one
of the best ways to do this.
Also, the
glass can be replaced with tempered glass or polycarbonate, but this is
costly. Metal bars can be in- stalled over the windows, but it doesn't
enhance your view and can be a real life-threatening situation in case of
fire. Unless you plan to use one of these techniques, perhaps the best way
is to install security latches and other such devices onto your windows.
These are inexpensive and easy to install and will usually deter burglars,
unless they are willing to break the glass despite the noise.
You may think
that the older type of locks on your windows are effective, but often this
is not the case. These clasp locks can be opened with a butter knife or
spatula inserted between the two windows. There are several different types
of window locks on the market. All are relatively easy to install. Some
locks even allow you to leave the window locked in a partially opened
position, if you want to leave some of them open when you leave home.
Battery operated alarm locks are also available for windows.
Keyed locks for
windows are sometimes used. These have one drawback in that, in case of
fire, they are hard to open if you cannot find your key. Casement windows,
which have cranks, can be secured by simply removing the handle. Leave it in
an accessible place in case of fire. You may need to secure only the windows
on the first floor, if you feel the second- and third-floor windows are not
vulnerable.
Also, make note
of air conditioners or fans installed in windows. Often these can be removed
by a burglar. Be sure the units are bolted to the house in such a way that
they cannot be removed from the outside. And be sure that the window cannot
be raised.
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No Light
Concern
During the day, chances are someone would notice
a burglar trying to force open your first-floor window or kicking in your
back door. But at nighttime the criminal has a convenient cover of darkness
to help commit his crime. So a smart and easy home defense is to install
security lights that bathe your home and its surroundings at night. Some
lights are motion-sensitive; others turn on when it gets dark; a third
category works off a timer. Whatever type you choose, each can make your
house less inviting to burglars and a lot safer for you.
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Installing Video Security Cameras
Security cameras are becoming an increasingly popular way for
the public to protect property and people. Once considered the exclusive
realm of the rich, video surveillance, like most high-tech products, has
become increasingly affordable.
Gone are the days when a business would install "dummy" cameras as a
deterrent because of the liability and law suits which have resulted from
this practice. Rather, most video security systems almost always consist of
several cameras, even if only one is visible. They can be concealed in many
places, including smoke detectors, telephones, exit signs and even in the
frames of artwork hanging on the wall.
It is also possible to have remote monitoring, allowing someone with the
proper equipment installed on their personal computer to look in on a video
surveillance system at another location. This is is a feature offered to
parents at a growing number of daycare centers and is becoming increasingly
popular for parents who want to check on their older kids who are home alone
after school, etc.
Cameras can be watched live from a monitor or recorded onto videotape. It is
even possible to record sound at the same time, although signs warning
consumers that they are being filmed and recorded must be posted on the
doors in all public places that use audio and video systems. There are no
such requirements in private homes.
Copyright 1999-2003, ServiceMagic, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
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Safes and Hiding Places
After you
have taken all possible precautions to keep burglars from breaking into
your home, you may want to consider taking some other precautions to
keep them from locating valuables, if they do break in. This can be done
by hiding valuables or placing them in safes so that, even if they are
located, they cannot be removed. Nowadays there are some very simple
hiding devices available that are inexpensive and clever. There are some
mail order catalogues, for example, from which you can order a small
container that looks like a head of lettuce, put your valuables in it,
and place it in the refrigerator.
Unless
the burglar decides to make a salad or is aware of such new gimmicks,
you're safe. Similar containers are available as soft drink cans and
hollow books. You can buy hollow electrical outlet boxes as well An
imaginative tour of your home may reveal many other effective hiding
places. Remember, burglars often don't have much time to search, so they
usually grab what they see or can quickly find.
If you feel
it's worth the effort, you can strengthen a closet to serve as a small
vault. This can be done simply by installing a metal or solid wood door and
a couple of deadbolts. It is a good idea to line the interior with plywood,
since drywall can be easily busted through. If you have an older home with
wide (6" - 12") baseboards, you can remove a section, hollow out the areas
between the studs, put small valuables in, and tack the baseboard in place.
Many
models and sizes of residential safes are available. Though somewhat more
expensive than these other devices, they can be effective if properly
installed. Smaller ones concreted into place are an excellent deterrent But
remember, a safe will only serve to alert a burglar to what's inside, so be
sure it is well secured.
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