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Kitchen
Remodeling - Replacing The Cabinets
This
website includes the major steps taken to remodel an existing kitchen.
However, it is not meant to be a complete guide to kitchen remodeling.
Depending on the scope of your particular project, you may also be
involved with tearing out walls and replacing windows and doors as well
as upgrading the electrical and plumbing systems.
SAFETY:
As you
exercise your do it yourself skills, develop safe work habits and stick
to them.
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Work patiently. If
you become confused, frustrated or in too much of a hurry, chances are
greater that mistakes will be made.
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Read and follow
the specific safety rules of every tool and material you will be
using.
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Unplug tools when
changing blades or making adjustments.
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Wear heavy soled
boots on any construction site; rubber soles when working on the roof;
gloves while handling lumber; and protective eyewear whenever power
tools are in operation.
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Wear ear
protection when using power tools as some operate at levels that can
damage hearing.
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Tie long hair back
so as not to catch it accidentally in power tools.
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Keep work surfaces
and traffic areas free from scraps and debris.
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Select the
appropriate tool for the job and keep all tools sharp and in good
working condition.
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If an object is
too heavy or awkward, get assistance in moving it; bend from the knees
when picking up large and heavy items.
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Hard hats are
recommended when working under or around overhead construction.
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Turn off all
utilities before beginning work. Remember that pilot lights must be
relit.
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Use the proper
protection, take precautions and plan ahead. Never bypass safety to
save money or rush a project.
Kitchen Remodeling - Uninstalling Kitchen Appliances
Because all appliances are different, we suggest consulting the
instructions for the individual appliance when dismantling. If you no
longer have the literature or something is not clear to you, seek
professional advice.
NOTE:
if modifications have been made to your kitchen in the past, it will be
a good idea to measure the door openings and the larger appliances
before attempting to get them through the doorways. Old carpet samples
or large pieces of cardboard are great for sliding appliances out of
position, while at the same time, protecting the floor from gouges or
scratches.
Kitchen
Remodeling - Uninstalling Kitchen Plumbing
1.To disconnect the Dishwasher you will need to trace your lines from
under the sink where they ma have been threaded through holes in the
cabinetry. A small diameter copper pipe will be the water supply line,
a black rubber pipe will go to the air gap or the disposal, and the
power cord will be nearby. If you do not find these under the sink,
look for mounting brackets on either side of the dishwasher at floor
level. Disconnect these.
Then, slowly and carefully pull the dishwasher forward (you will need
to pull hard) until you have enough access to work behind it.
Dishwashers are not usually hardwired so you will probably only have
to disconnect the plug from the outlet. If yours happens to be one of
those that is directly wired, make sure the electricity is turned off
at the circuit box before disconnecting the wires from their junction
box and capping the wires that remain in the box.
2. The next step is
to turn the water off at the shut off valve and detach the rubber hose
at the air gap or the waste fitting or the collar of the garbage
disposal. Loosen the screw clamps on the hose fittings or unthread the
pipe fittings and disconnect the waste line from the plumbing system.
Feed the hose through the cabinet to the back of the dishwasher. Then
pull the unit forward onto your dolly.
3. To disconnect the
Sink and remove the Garbage Disposal, shut off the water supply at the
shut off valves below the sink. If these valves are not present, it
will be necessary to shut off the main valve. You will not be able to
turn the water back on until you have installed a shut off valve or
reconnected the sink. Installing a shut off valve can be difficult as
you need to get ALL the water out of the supply lines before screwing
the fittings on. You will need a plumbers wrench to disconnect the
fittings at the sink and cap them with caps of the same metal and
threading as your pipes.
4. Place a bucket
under the trap to catch the water that stands in the trap. You will
need a 1 - 1-1/2" pipe wrench to disconnect the chrome fittings
between the garbage disposal or the sink and the P-trap.
5. To disconnect the
garbage disposal, pull the plug out of the socket; or, if yours is
directly wired, turn off the power and disconnect the wires at the
box. Cap those wires, remaining in the box, as described previously.
Unscrew the screws that hold the disposal to the bottom of the sink or
unclasp the snap ring and rubber sleeve. The unit will then drop down.
If you plan to reuse it, store it carefully with the P-trap.
6. Use your plumber's
wrench to disconnect the water supply lines to the sink; then, open
the faucets to let the water drain. You will have to crawl into the
cabinet under the sink to locate the connections (nuts) between the
faucet lines and the hot and cold water lines. loosen and remove those
nuts that connect the faucet to the sink. Pull out the faucet and, if
you plan on reusing it, store it carefully with the nuts and the
copper and chrome connections.
7. If your sink is
recessed under tiles, you may have to remove some tiles. This will
enable you to remove t e entire counter- top unit in one piece. A
self-rimming stainless sink or a surface mounted sink may be attached
with clips underneath the counter top. loosen the clips with a
screwdriver and you should have no trouble wriggling them free. A
self-rimming porcelain sink must be pried loose from the adhesive
before it can be lifted out.
Note: The old cast iron sinks are much heavier than other types. If this is
the type you are removing, you will need an extra pair of hands when
removing it.
Kitchen Remodeling
- Uninstalling Kitchen Cabinets
1. Once the sink
and its fittings have been removed, the next step will be to disassemble
the counter tops and remove the cabinets. For this you will need a
hammer, pry-bar, putty knife, screwdriver, crowbar, ladder and saw. Many
counter tops are made of plywood, nailed to the base cabinets, with the
finish material laid on top. With the exception of a plastic laminated
counter top, the only part worth saving is the finish material - the
tile, marble or wood.
Tile can be
difficult to save as they are mostly glass and could crack and fly off
in pieces. Synthetic marble slabs can usually be pried off with a putty
knife and the appropriate solvent Plastic laminate counter tops and wood
slabs are generally nailed or screwed to the base cabinet. These
fasteners are located by looking up under the counter top inside the
cabinet.
2. At this point,
you will be ready to remove the cabinets from their permanent positions.
We recommend that you remove the base units first so that you can get
underneath the wall cabinets for easier disassembly.
3. It will make
the job much easier if you remove all doors and drawers before
attempting to remove the cabinets. Then you can easily look inside the
cabinet to see where and by what means it is attached.
4. If the units
are attached to each other, you can either detach them and lower them
separately or lower them as one. If you plan to reuse the hardware,
clean and store all the pulls, knobs and their screws in plastic bags.
Cabinets can be attached in a variety of ways.
Older types are usually
nailed to the wall, to the soffit and/or to each other and may even be
built into the wall itself. (in this latter case it will be necessary to
demolish all or part of the wall.) Newer units will more likely be held
into place with screws. Some models may even be hung on metal or wood
cabinet hangers.
Metal cabinets are
usually attached with hangers. These can simply be lifted out and away
from the wall at the bottom then lifted up off of the hangers . Unscrew
the hangers from the wall. If screws were use, remove them. If the
cabinet is nailed into place, ease the flat end of a pry bar between the
unit and the wall. Do this at both the top and the bottom.
Pry the cabinet
loose while another person supports it from below. Add a block of wood
between the wall surface and the pry-bar to avoid marring the wall. If
this method does not loosen the nails, pound the cabinet toward the wall
in an effort to make the nail heads protrude enough to draw them out.
5. Lower cabinets
are often attached to the wall at the top and can be unscrewed or pried
loose. Remove the cove molding or carefully pry away the baseboard at
the floor. Remove any nails and lift the cabinet away from the wall.
Preparation for Installation of a New Kitchen Walls, Floors and
More
After
the demolition phase, there is usually some preparatory work to be done
before you can install your new kitchen. If extensive structural,
electrical, plumbing, drywall or paneling work is included in your plans
it should take place at this time as well.
WALLS
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Gouges or holes in
the walls must be repaired with wall board compound, spackle, or
patching plaster. Stuff larger holes with newspaper or fine wire mesh
to hold the compound. If you have gaping holes or many gouges it may
be necessary to replace the surface with dry wall.
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Usually,
installing new cabinets will call or some changes in the position of
the cabinets, requiring that the walls be painted. If drywall or large
patches of filler are being used to prepare the walls, a coat of
sealer or primer should be applied before the color coat.
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Locate and mark
the wall studs on the floor and ceiling as a reference for attaching
the new cabinetry.
FLOORS
If you
plan to replace your floor, the time to prepare for it is BEFORE
installing the cabinets and permanent appliances. Ceramic tile floors
are usually placed before the installation of cabinets while vinyl
flooring can be laid either before or after the cabinets are in place.
If the new floor will go directly on top of the existing one, it is very
important to fill any areas that may have dipped, buckled or bulged, as
well as any holes or gouges, and nail down protruding boards. Remove
glue or paint that may have spilled. Countersink nail and screw heads
that are sticking up above the surface. If the old floor is embossed or
has dips and/or hollows in it, these should be filled in with cement
filler using a 5 to 10-inch wide putty knife.
Water
damaged floors must be repaired before laying down a new floor. You will
need to remove the existing flooring to expose the damaged subfloor.
Damaged portions of sub-flooring must be replaced. Should you find the
entire sub floor to be too badly damaged for salvage, it will be best to
lay new one. This can be laid directly on top of the existing floor.
THE
ORDER OF INSTALLATION
These
instructions are to be used as a guide but you should always follow the
specific manufacturer's instructions where there are deviations. Putting
the kitchen together should occur in a logical sequence.
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Primer and paint
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Ceramic tile,
vinyl or hardwood flooring*
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Wall cabinets
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Base cabinets and
islands
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Cabinet doors,
drawers and hardware
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Plywood base for
tile countertops
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Recessed sink
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Counter tops -
wood, marble, tile
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Surface mounted
sink & fittings
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Disposal
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Dishwasher
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Ice-maker
connection
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Over the range
hood/vent
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Cook top
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Wall oven and
microwave
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Vinyl Flooring
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Range
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Refrigerator,
freezer, trash compactor & icemaker
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Lighting fixtures
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Finishing touches
- trim
NOTE: Hardwood flooring and ceramic tile are always laid before cabinets
are installed while vinyl flooring can be placed after the cabinetry is
in place.
Installing New Kitchen Cabinets
Most Common Mistakes:
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Not installing
level or plumb,
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Not attaching to
studs,
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Damaging or
marring cabinets,
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Not aligning
cabinet doors,
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Damaging the walls
during installation,
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Not cutting sink
opening to proper dimension,
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Drop-in appliances
not properly fitted and installed,
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Not making exact
fits and cuts, or
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Not installing all
needed utilities.
Whenever installing stock cabinets, accurate measurements are critical
to assure a snug fit. Custom made cabinetry is usually sold with a
warranty conditional on having the cabinets installed by the dealer. In
fact, the dealer will probably send someone out to make their own
measurements.
Most
ready-made cabinets come with a scribe allowance at the edges to allow
you to adapt them to irregular walls. Scribing simply involves running a
strip of masking tape along the side to be scribed; then, positioning
the cabinet. (See Fig. J) Set the points of a pencil compass to the
width of the widest gap between the side of the cabinet and the wall.
Run the compass down the wall and the irregularities will be pencil
marked on the tape. Now you can plane or sand down to the line so the
cabinet will rest flush against the wall. If the scribe edge is not
included on your cabinets or if your cabinets go all the way to the
ceiling, plan on trimming the edges with a small piece of molding.
It is
easier to install the upper wall cabinets first because you have room to
work with them. Since they will hang from the wall, you must make
certain they are securely attached.
Before
installing any of our new cabinets, remove all the drawers, doors and
hardware and label them as to their original locations for quick
reassembly. This will make the units much lighter a n more manageable.
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Use a chalk line
to mark the position of the wall studs on the walls from ceiling to
floor.
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Measure the height
of the base cabinets. If your floor is not level, measure from the
highest point. Add to that measurement the thickness oft e counter
top. Measure this distance up from the floor and draw a horizontal
line across the wall. Use a level to assure this line will be true
horizontal. This will indicate the surface of the counter top.
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Measure to another
point above the line to where the bottom of the upper cabinet will
rest (usually 18' to 19" above your 1st line) and draw another
horizontal line across the wall. This line (approximately 54 inches
above the floor) should also be made with a level to assure it is true
horizontal and parallel to the line for the counter top.
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Nail a temporary l
x 2 ledger board to the wall so that the top of the board is even with
the line for the upper cabinets.
Be sure you are nailing into the studs. Now mark the cabinet widths
along the length of the ledger strip.
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You will need to
make a few temporary jacks to support the wall cabinets while you
attach them to the wall. The total length of the jack should reach
from the floor to the bottom of the upper cabinets. Wide blocks of
wood nailed to both ends of a 2 x 4 work well for this purpose. Put
the jacks into position near the ledger.
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When
readying the cabinets for installation, we recommend you first prepare
those cabinets that will house a hood/vent, ducts and plumbing: Place
the cabinet upside down on the floor with the hood in position upside
down on the (bottom of the) cabinet. Trace the outline of the vent
hole onto the base of the cabinet. Drill a starter hole for your sabre
saw, then, cut around the outline and remove the cutout, Next, make a
paper template of the ceiling or wall where the cabinet will be placed
that shows where the end of the duct will enter. Place the template
into position on the cabinet top or back and outline the duct hole.
Again, drill a starter hole and cut out the circle with your sabre
saw. Mark the location of the Wall studs on each cabinet's hanging
cleats; then, drill pilot holes for screws at these points.
Self-drilling bugle head screws can also be used. These require no
pre-drilling, except when using at face frames. With the doors
removed, lift the first cabinet into position onto the ledger board
and the temporary jacks. Check to see that the cabinet is both level
and plumb in position and, if needed, add shims at the back of the
cabinet to bring it into a plumb position.
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Screw the 2-1/2 inch No. 8 flathead wood screws through the cleat at
the back of the cabinet and into the wall studs - two at the top and
two at the bottom. Use longer screws if needed to assure at least 1
-1/4" to 1-3/4" penetration into the studs. Each unit should be
attached to a minimum of two studs. If only one stud is located behind
a unit, add a toggle bolt as an additional fastener.
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Attach each of the upper cabinets in this manner. Then, go back and
screw the adjacent units together. When connecting adjoining cabinets,
it may be necessary to loosen wall screws to allow the faces of the
cabinet to be attached flush to each other. Use hand screws or a C
clamp with soft wood screws between the jaws of the clamp and the face
frame often cabinet to hold the units flush while you screw them
together.
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Recheck all for level and plumb.
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Remove the jacks and the ledger board and repair any holes in the
wall.
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If
your lower cabinets have freestanding bases, set the bases in position
and level them, shimming if necessary. Also, use a framing square to
square them where your base cabinets meet in a comer. When placing
shim material, place a block of wood between the shim and the hammer
so as not to damage the flooring. Then anchor them to the floor
and place the cabinet units on top of them. Those cabinets without
freestanding bases must be leveled and anchored in position as a unit.
As you set the base cabinets in place, measure and leave room for our
appliances, adding a 1/4 inch for clearance - more if you will be
adding end panels. Check the position of your base units against the
line on the wall, making certain the tops are equally below the line
by the thickness of your counter top.
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Attach the cabinet units together so that the faces are flush. Slide a
level down the entire length of the cabinets, adding a shim where
there is a gap or to bring it up to level. Place your level front to
back on the top of the cabinet to check for plumb - a again shimming
if necessary. Then, screw the entire length o cabinets into the wall
with the 2 - inch screws through the top cleat and into the wall
studs. often, due to some unevenness in the wall, there will be gaps
between the back of the cabinet and the wall. To avoid pulling your
cabinets out of kilter as you position them to the wall, shim the gaps
at the fastening point (where the stud is located) before screwing the
cabinet into place.
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Island cabinets must have the individual units screwed together and
laced into position before leveling and plumbing on all four sides. I
the base is separate, level and plumb it. Then, fasten it to the floor
With toe nails or angle brackets. Place and anchor the cabinets to the
base. When installing an island unit, it is important to square it to
the cabinets along the wall and to the wall itself, as well as lining
it up properly with the overhead fixtures (stove vent or lighting).
Measure off on both ceiling and floor to determine the exact location.
Installing Pre-Formed Kitchen Counter Tops
The two
common types of countertops are pre-formed and self-rimmed. Pre-formed
tops come assembled from the manufacturer while self-rimmed tops are
built at the jobsite using raw materials (laminates and plywood or
particle board).
Most
Common Mistakes:
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Not sanding
counter tops to the contours of the wall,
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Not applying the
finish surface accurately,
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Not cutting the
sink opening to the proper dimension,
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Scratching the
countertop over the course of the installation,
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Puncturing the
counter top with screws while fastening it to the base units, or
Preformed counter tops are available only in standard sizes so you'll
generally purchase one a little longer than you need and cut it to
length.
To
measure for the size counter you will need, add the counter overhang
(usually between 3/4 and 1 inch in front and on open ends) and add it to
the dimensions of your cabinet.
2. If
an end splash is to be included, subtract 3/4 inch from the length of
the counter top on that side. Plan your cut for an end which will have
an end cap or end splash. Cut the excess off with a handsaw; but first,
mark the cut line with some masking tape to protect against chipping.
Smooth the edges of the cut with a file or sandpaper
3. The
end splash will be screwed directly onto the edge of the counter top or
into wood batons previously attached to the edge. Apply silicone sealant
to all surfaces to be joined and hold the end splash in place with
C-clamps while driving in the screws.
4. An
end cap is a pre-shaped strip of matching laminate which will be glued
to the end of the counter top.
5. U-
and L-shaped counter tops will need to be ordered mitered or cut to
order as it is difficult to accurately miter these sections at home.
These pre-mitered sections should have small slots for draw bolts cut
into the bottom edges. Again, coat the edges with silicone sealant
before aligning the edges and tightening the bolts.
6.
Fasten the adjoining backsplashes together with wood screws.
7. As
with the cabinets, counter tops rarely fit perfectly against the back or
side walls. Often, they come with a scribing strip that can be trimmed
to the exact contours of your irregular walls. Scribing simply involves
running a strip of masking tape along the edge to be scribed then
positioning the counter top. Set the points of a pencil compass to the
width of the widest gap between the counter top and the wall. Run the
compass along the wall and the irregularities will be pencil marked on
the tape. Now you can plane or and down to the line so the counter top
will rest flush against the wall. Follow the same technique for scribing
as explained in the section on cabinets.
8.
Once your contours are correct, position the counter top on the cabinet
base. Check that all is level and shim where needed. Check also that
drawers and doors may be opened freely.
9.
Fasten down the counter top by running screws up from below through the
top frame and corners. If there are no corner brackets, install them on
the base units. This will allow you to install the counter to easily.
Again, self-drilling bugle head screws are great for t is job. Round
head screws work best here because they will not be seen so do not have
to be counter sunk and they bear more weight in this position. Use
screws that will be long enough to reach 1/2 inch into the counter core.
Applying Laminate to Counter Tops
When
spreading the adhesive for the counter top, it is most easily done with
a paint tray and a mohair-covered paint roller. Lay the cut plastic
laminate on the floor on top of newspapers and roll the contact cement
on, covering the entire surface. Apply a slightly thicker coat of cement
near the edges. Next, cover the counter surface and allow both to dry
about 15 minutes or until the brown paper will not stick to the
adhesive.
2. Wood
dowels work better to keep the laminate from sticking to the cemented
counter surface than brown par when laying the counter top. Place them
at one foot intervals. Then lay the laminate, adhesive side down, on the
wood dowels. Put the factory edge against the backsplash and set the tip
of the diagonal cut into the comer. This corner is where you will begin.
3. Pull out
the wood strip nearest the corner while pressing the laminate into
position. Again, be sure the laminate is exactly where you want it. Use
a sweeping motion so no air bubbles are trapped beneath the laminate.
Work along the counter, pulling out strips of wood and pressing down the
laminate. Then, immediately roll the surface with your rolling pin or
hand roller, applying extra pressure near the edges.
4. When
placing the second piece, make certain the diagonal seam at the corner
is very tight and roll the seam thoroughly.
5. If the
laminate fails to form a bond or creates a bubble at some point, place a
piece of the brown wrapping paper over the spot and place a hot iron
(set for cotton) on to of the paper until the laminate feels hot to the
touch. he heat should soften the contact cement enough to regain some of
its stickiness. Then use the roller again with a firm, steady pressure
until the laminate has cooled.
6. Before router trimming the counter top, put
masking tape around the newly laminated edges so as not to mar them.
Router off the excess as you did with the edges, moving the router from
left to right. Then, replace the bit with a 22 degree bevel bit and
bevel the seam at the top of the counter moving, as always, left to
right.
Tip:
Practice this technique on some scrap before doing the final project.
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Finish the bevels with a 14-inch single cut mill
file. Apply pressure on the downward stroke. Check each angle with
your finger tip to assure there are no rough edges that may later
result in cracks. Inside corners are particularly prone to cracking if
they are not filed smooth.
Installing a Hood Vent System in
Kitchens
Install the
hood/vent before the range or cook top so that you can reach all
connections easily.
1. Connect a
section of 6 or 7 inch metal ducting to the duck pipe entering the
cabinet and to the hood. If these holes are too close for a turn, you
may need to have a sheet metal box with nailing flanges made to your
specifications.
2. Lift the hood
into position and trace the holes for attaching the unit with the screws
provided.
3. Connect the
wiring in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
4. Connect the
hood collar to the duct by tightening the metal collar provided or by
wrapping duct tape around both collar and duct.
VARIOUS CABINETS INFORMATION
Cabinet Doors and Drawers
By:
Paul Bianchina
Got a
cabinet door in the kitchen that keeps sagging to one side? Is that
drawer in the bathroom vanity still sticking, despite trying to
lubricate it with toothpaste? There are all sorts of little nuisances
that can occur with the doors and drawers in your home’s cabinets, and
here are some repair ideas for a few of the more common problems.
Cabinet Doors
Sagging cabinet doors are a fairly common occurrence, and the larger and
heavier the door is, the more likely it is to sag. Sagging typically
results from the hinge trying to pull away from the frame of the
cabinet, and while this can occur at any of the hinges on the door,
gravity dictates that the weight of the door will make the topmost hinge
the most likely to fail.
Unscrew the hinges from the frame, and retain the screws. Using a 1/8"
drill bit, drill a clean hole into the cabinet at the location of each
of the screws, then glue in a small piece of 1/8" hardwood dowel –
larger holes and matching dowels can be used if needed. When the glue
has dried, trim the dowel off flush with the cabinet, drill a small
pilot hole into the end of the dowel, and reinstall the door with the
original screws.
A door
that will not stay closed against the face of the cabinet is another
common occurrence, and the method of repair depends on the type of hinge
you have. First, sight along the edge of the door to see if it’s warped
– if it is, adjusting the hinges probably won’t help, and you’ll either
have to have a new door made or use a cabinet door latch (see below). If
the door is straight and the hinges mount to the inside edge of the
cabinet faceframe, try loosening the screws in the cabinet and sliding
the door in or out. If the hinges mount to the face of the cabinet,
placing a thin piece of shim behind one or more of the hinges may do the
trick.
European-style cabinets, which do not have a face frame, typically
employ a sophisticated hinge that has a number of adjustments in it.
Typically, you will need to remove a small decorative cap on the face of
the hinge – pop it off with a small screwdriver – to access the
adjustment screws underneath. Turning the different screws in or out
will move the door in different directions.
Cabinets with older hinges can often be repaired by replacing the hinges
with newer, self-closing ones – the force of the self-closer spring will
usually hold the door tight against the cabinet. There are dozens of
self-closing hinges available, so look for ones that fit the style of
your cabinets and obscure the old screw holes.
When
all else fails, you can resort to a simple door latch. Door latches come
in many different styles and include corresponding magnets that mount to
the door and the cabinet; rollers that mount on the cabinet and grab
onto a round pin on the door; friction catches that mount on the cabinet
and grab onto a metal tab on the door; and bullet catches which have a
small, spring-loaded ball that engages into a recessed ring. Pick the
style that best suits the look and construction of the cabinets.
Cabinet Drawer Repairs
Before
you can effectively repair the operation of a drawer, you need to first
repair the drawer itself. Remove the drawer from the cabinet, and
examine it carefully for damage. Check to see that there are no large
cracks in the wood, that the wood is not warped, and that all of the
joints are tight.
Wood
that is cracked, warped, or badly worn will need to be replaced.
Depending on the drawer’s construction and the materials used, you may
be able to separate the pieces of the drawer by tapping them apart with
a rubber mallet, and make a new piece to replace the old one. If the
drawer is in too bad of a condition, or if it won’t come apart without
damaging it further, your best bet would probably be to take it to a
cabinet shop and have a whole new one made to match – they can typically
salvage the drawer front to eliminate the problems with matching grains
and stain colors.
If the
drawer itself is okay and you’re still having problems with its
operation, replacement or repair of the guide system should solve the
problem. Most cabinet drawers operate on metal guides, which support and
guide the drawer in and out of the cabinet, and also keep it aligned
properly. The most common type of guide today consists of a pair of
metal channels attached to the side of the cabinet, with a matching pair
of rails that are attached to the drawer. Some older styles have a
single rail along the bottom of each drawer opening, with a plastic
guide that’s attached to the drawer itself.
With
either style, you need to check the connection points where the guides
are attached. Check for loose or missing screws – you may need to use
the dowel trick outlined above. If parts of the guide are held by
staples, you may need to replace them with screws. For European style
cabinets, adjustments to the guides will typically need to be done by
inserting thin shims between the guides and the cabinet and/or the
drawer. If readjustment won’t work, a complete replacement of the guides
will probably be necessary.
All of
the repair parts you need – including complete new guide systems –
should be available at any home center or hardware store.
Copyright 2002 Inman News Features. Distributed by Inman
News Features
Cabinet Refacing, Part 2: Preparing the Cases
Once
the materials arrive, it's time to remove the contents of your cabinets
in preparation for the next stage of the process: refacing the cases, as
the cabinet boxes are called.
In Part 1, you ordered your cabinet refacing materials and completed any
related improvements and repairs. Now it's time to reface the cabinets.
You do this by applying over the cabinet face frames a veneer that
matches your new doors and drawer fronts, and by covering cabinet end
panels with either matching plywood or door panels identical to the ones
you will be installing over cabinet openings. Drawer and door
installation (covered in Part 3) can be done at your leisure with the
cabinets stocked. So if it better suits your schedule (and sanity) to
get your kitchen functioning as soon as possible, restock your cabinets
and put the still-loaded drawers back in place after completing Part 2
of the project.
Tools
& Materials
-
Refacing materials
(veneer, door fronts, etc.)
-
Combination
countersink/pilot hole bit
-
#1 and #2 Phillips
head screwdriver
-
1" wood screws
-
Trim pry bar
-
Wood putty and
putty knife
-
Hammer
-
Sanding block and
80-, 120-, and 150-grit sandpaper
-
Cleaning supplies
-
Spray adhesive
-
Block plane
-
Shears or utility
knife
-
Scribe (compass)
-
30" (min.) metal
straightedge
-
Wood glue and
brads, or contact cement
-
Combination square
or try square
-
Electric
drill/driver with #1 and #2 bits
-
Plexiglas scraper
1.
Remove the Old:
Remove all doors by unscrewing the hinges from the cabinet. Lift out the
drawers. False fronts on sinks are held in place with clips or blocks
that are accessed from the back. Use a trim pry bar to remove any
molding that is to be replaced.
2.
Clean:
Clean dirt and grime off face frames and end panels with dishwashing
liquid (or other mild detergent) and water. Do not use solvents as they
may soften the finish and cause the veneer adhesive to not stick.
3.
Cover End Panels:
Whether using plywood or a door panel to cover an end panel, it should
be installed so the front edge is flush with the front face of the
cabinet.
-
Install plywood:
If the face frame projects beyond the side of the cabinet, plane the
wood until it is flush. If you ordered plywood at 1/4 inch wide to
allow for a scribe to the wall, make that 1/4-in. scribe as follows:
With the panel on the cabinet and against the wall, adjust it until
the front edge is exactly parallel to the face of the cabinet; and
hold a pencil or scribe against the wall and mark the profile on the
panel. Plane and/or use a belt sander to remove the wood to your line.
Attach plywood with panel adhesive and brads and sand it flush with
front edge.
-
Tip:
Whenever you use panel adhesive to glue panels to a surface, apply
beads of adhesive, press the panel into place, but then lift an edge a
few inches away from the surface and press it back in place. The
adhesive will bond better and cure faster.
-
Attach door
panels:
Instead of planning any projecting edge of a face frame, you can build
out the cabinet sides with strips of wood lattice or plywood before
you install the door over the end panel. Attach doors from inside the
cabinets. Drill pilot holes through the cabinet wall and into the door
stiles. Make sure that the drill and screws are not too long!
4.
Fill and Sand:
Use wood filler to fill any screw holes, depressions, and the exposed
edge grain of any plywood end panels that you installed in Step 3. Sand
to level the repair with the surrounding area. Sand the face frames with
80-grit sandpaper to degloss them and make the pressure-sensitive
adhesive bond better. To avoid rounding over the corners use a hard
rubber or wooden sanding block, not a power sander.
5.
Treat Bare Wood:
Apply spray adhesive on all bare wood, such as the edges of end panels
and repaired areas on face frames. Some professionals like the extra
measure of protection that a bonding agent, such as a water-based
contact cement, provides.
6.
Veneer the Stiles:
To veneer the face only: Cut strips of peel-and-stick veneer
about 1/2 inch wider and 1 inch longer than the height of your cabinets.
Use shears or a sharp utility knife and a metal straightedge. Peel back
a couple inches of the paper backing and apply the veneer centered on
the stile so it overlaps all edges. Peel off the rest of the paper as
you press it into place. With a new blade in a utility knife, score the
veneer front then back, flush with the stile on all edges; and bend it
to complete the cut. Cut horizontal notches where it meets the rails.
-
To veneer the
edges and faces:
Cut the strips wide enough to cover the face and edge(s) plus 1/2
inch. Apply to the face as above, but do not trim the veneer along the
front edge of the stile. Instead, make the horizontal notches where
the veneer meets the top and bottom rails; and bend the veneer around
the corner and press it onto the side(s) of the stile.
7.
Veneer Rails:
Cut similarly oversized veneer for rails and lightly press it in place
centered on the rail and overlapping the two stiles about 1/2 inch. Trim
the rail veneer that extends beyond the top or bottom of the cabinet.
Place a combination square or try square over the rail so the blade is
in line with the edge of the stile. Then using the blade as a guide, cut
through both veneer layers (called double-cutting). Peel back veneer as
needed to remove the cutoffs; and when you press the pieces back you'll
have a perfect joint. Trim excess until it is flush with the inside edge
of the face frame.
8.
Press Veneer:
Press and slide a Plexiglas scraper all along the veneer to bond it to
the face frame. Do not use a wallpaper seam roller. Sand all corners
very lightly with a sanding block and 150-grit sandpaper.
Cabinet Refacing, Part 3: Install Doors and
Drawers
Now
it's time to complete the installation by installing the doors and
replacing the drawer fronts. If you have not already done so, you'll
need to lift out the drawers and empty the contents.
In the two previous parts of this project we've ordered parts and
prepared existing kitchen cabinets, and veneered the cases and refaced
the end panels. The time has come to finally put your kitchen back
together starting with the doors and drawers!
Tools
& Materials
1.
Prepare Drawers:
For a four-sided box drawer with a false front - the part you will be
replacing - simply remove any screws, pulls, or knobs to disconnect the
false front from the drawer front. For a three-sided box-type drawer,
which is built so the drawer front is the front side of the drawer box,
first remove the metal drawer slides from the drawer. Then trim the
drawer fronts with a saw so the ends are flush with the drawer sides.
Turn the drawer so the old front is the back and reinstall the slides so
they are flush with the new face.
2.
Make a Jig:
If you're careful you can measure to locate holes for pulls and knobs.
However, a jig (a template) will make the job go faster and lessen any
chance of error. Make two jigs, one for the drawers and one for the
doors. To make a jig, attach a couple of strips of wood to the square
corner of a small scrap of plywood that is at least 3 inches longer than
half the width of your largest drawer front and 1/2 inch wider than half
of the drawer front height. Drill holes in the plywood (two holes for a
pull, one for a knob) that correspond to the desired location of the
pulls or knobs on the door and drawer front.
3.
Bore Holes:
Place the jig over the corner of the door (or drawer front) and place a
small board behind the door. This backer prevents the bit from
splintering the wood as it exits the back side. Clamp the assembly
together and drill through the holes in the jig and through the door (or
drawer front). Use a bit slightly larger than the diameter of the
machine screws for these clearance holes.
4.
Install the Doors:
With hinges already attached to the doors, hold the door in place. For
an overlay-type door, make the overlay at the top and bottom equal and
screw the hinge to the stile. For an inset door, clamp a block of wood
to the face of the lower rail at the proper height to support the door
while you mark the hinge location of the stile. Screw hinges to the
stiles.
5.
Adjust the Doors:
Many hinges allow vertical and horizontal adjustment, and some permit
depth adjustment, too. Follow the instructions that come with the hinge
to adjust each door until all are level and plumb and are in line and
parallel with each other.
6.
Position First Drawer Front:
Hold a drawer front in place, centered over the opening and with the
desired spaces above and below. Drill through the clearance holes and
into the face of the drawer box. (It may help to have someone keep some
outward pressure on the drawer box.) Install the pulls with the machine
screws provided. For an inset drawer, shim under the drawer front until
the space above and below is equal, then drill the holes. Install the
pull with machine screws provided.
-
Tip:
If you need to adjust a skewed drawer front, remove the pull and
enlarge the clearance holes in the face of the drawer box. Reinstall
the front and the pull, but just until the screws are snug. Close the
door to adjust the front and then open it to tighten the screws.
-
When pulls are not
used, position the drawer front as follows: Drive two 1-inch wood
screws through the front of the drawer box so the points project about
1/8 to 3/16 inch. Position the drawer face and press it in place.
Remove the drawer front to locate holes made by the screw points.
Drill 1/2 inch deep pilot holes. Reposition the doors, and drive in
the wood screws.
7.
Install Remaining Drawer Fronts:
Use the same method to install the remaining fronts. An alternative is
to measure the distance from the top of the front to the top of the
drawer box face on the drawer you just completed, and use it as a guide
in positioning subsequent drawer fronts.
8.
Install Door Pulls or Knobs:
Use the machine screws provided to secure the door pulls or knobs in the
clearance holes that you drilled in Step 3.
9.
Install Sink Front:
Position the sink front on top of the closed door and against the face
frame to mark the sides of the opening on the back of the sink front.
Reuse the false-front clips from the old sink front, attaching them
inside your marks. Alternatively, attach 3/4-inch thick blocks of wood
at your marks and install a thumb screw at the edge which will lock over
the back of the stiles when the front is placed in position.
10.
Install Moldings (optional):
Installing mitered prefinished moldings requires considerable skill and
care. While many pieces may be precut, the ones that aren't must be
precisely cut using power miter saws with top-quality blades. All joints
must be glued and the trim fastened with brads, preferably using
pneumatic nailers, which leave very small fastener holes. Unless you are
skilled and properly equipped, consider having a trim carpenter handle
this task.
Tip:
To gain convenient storage space for sponges and other sink supplies,
install the sink front tray using fall-front hinges or a sink front
drawer mechanism.
Illustration provided by Rockler.com
Choosing
Your Cabinets
By:
Katherine Salant
When
most people think about the cabinetry for their new house, what they're
focusing on, and frequently obsessing about, is the door style.
Contemporary? Traditional? Which wood? What stain? Light or dark? Faux
blue? There's a surfeit of choices, but the first step in the winnowing
process is deciding on a price range and a cabinet grade.
The
three main divisions or grades of cabinets are stock, semi-custom, and
custom. There is much overlap between them; the only hard and fast
distinction is price. Custom cabinets are the most expensive, stock
cabinets are the least expensive and semi-custom cabinets are in
between.
With
custom cabinets, the cabinet boxes are made with higher grade materials,
the finishes are hand applied, there is a greater choice of wood species
and stains, and the detailing is more refined. Most of the higher cost
however, is due to the custom factor--custom cabinets are made to order
in any size requested.
With
stock cabinets, there are fewer choices of wood species for the doors
(but they can be stained to mimic other woods), fewer coats of finish
that are machine applied, and less expensive materials are used for the
cabinet boxes. But some stock cabinet lines, such as Merrilat, now
include features that were once the hallmark of custom cabinet makers,
such as base cabinets with roll-out trays and solid wood drawers with
dovetail joints and under-mounted drawer glides (these are stronger
drawers with a tonier look).
The
critical distinction between stock and custom cabinets, however, is the
sizing. Stock cabinets only come in fixed sizes, so there is less
flexibility in designing a kitchen with them. Since custom cabinets can
be ordered in any size you want, the sizing issue may point you in one
direction over the other. For example, if your new kitchen will be oddly
shaped, or it's small and you want to get as much cabinet storage as you
possibly can, custom cabinets may be the way to go.
Semi-custom cabinets occupy an ill-defined, gray area between the other
two grades. Most of them are made by either a custom cabinet maker or a
stock cabinet maker that wants to increase its market share, so the
features offered depend on the parent company. If it is a stock cabinet
maker, the semi-custom line will offer more wood species and finishes
and more sizes. Conversely, if the parent company is a custom cabinet
maker, its semi-custom line will have fewer features and finishes and
there will be some limitation on the sizing.
A few
high-end production builders use semi-custom cabinets, but these are
more often specified by semi-custom and custom home builders.
Nearly
all production home builders use stock cabinets. Price is certainly a
factor in this preference, but almost as important is the easy
availability of stock cabinets. They can be delivered within three weeks
of placing an order, whereas a custom or a semi-custom cabinet order
generally takes eight to twelve weeks, at a minimum. For a home builder
on a very tight construction schedule, as all production builders are,
this is critical. If the wrong size or cabinet style is inadvertently
ordered or delivered, the problem can be quickly rectified.
If you
end up with stock cabinets, either because you are working with a
production builder or your budget dictates it, don't fret that you are
unduly compromising. Over the last fifteen years the quality of stock
cabinets has vastly improved in appearance, detailing and durability. In
fact, stock cabinets may be the most sensible choice for you, even if
you can afford more expensive ones. Do you really care about the
costlier hand applied finishes or ball-bearing drawer glides that are
standard issue with any custom line?
Once
you've dealt with the preliminaries -- what's the difference between
cabinet grades, which one is the right choice for you, and you've
narrowed the field to one or two cabinet lines -- you can start
obsessing about the door styles with abandon. Custom and semi-custom
lines offer the most choices in the doors, but stock lines also offer
enough to keep you lying awake at night.
Most
cabinet doors are wood and broadly speaking, there are two types. The
door will be either completely flat, which gives it a contemporary look,
or have a panel which can be raised or flat, which gives the door a
traditional look.
With
stock cabinets, the least expensive wood door will have a single panel
of veneered plywood (this is the standard cabinet door for many
production builders). A medium-priced stock cabinet door will have a
raised panel that is veneered wood over particle board. The most
expensive stock cabinet door will have a solid wood panel (it looks and
wears the same as the other one, but you will know the difference!).
A
flat-paneled stock cabinet door is fine for a bathroom. But in a high
use area such as a kitchen, try to upgrade to a raised panel type if
possible. The increased thickness of the door gives it more strength and
rigidity. The type of hinge can also affect door strength. A concealed
European-type hinge that is commonly used on a full overlay door is
generally stronger than standard hinge, which is partially exposed.
Although children hanging on the cabinet doors can weaken the hinges and
cause them to break, Debby Saling, a certified kitchen designer in
Beltsville, Maryland, observed that a more common problem is adults who
bend down to get something out of a base cabinet and then lean on the
door to boost themselves up.
With
semi-custom and custom cabinet lines, the wood doors will be solid wood.
The flat paneled doors can have more panels as well as more refinements
that give it a Shaker look. This type of flat-paneled door is usually
stronger than the stock cabinet type and it should work in any room in
the house.
With
all three cabinet grades, the size of the cabinet doors will affect both
price and appearance. Larger doors and drawers that cover the front of
the cabinet box when they're closed (the ";full overlay" type) are more
expensive. The difference is subtle, but it can give a ‘traditional
look" a more ";contemporary feel." With standard door and drawer sizes,
the front of the cabinet box is partially exposed when the doors are
closed.
Nearly all stock cabinet lines offer oak, maple, hickory, cherry, and
vinyl wrapped white doors. At the semi-custom level, birch and poplar
doors are also available, and white doors are lacquered, a more
expensive process that gives a more refined look. The number of stains,
which can affect appearance dramatically, increase. At the custom level,
tropical hardwoods such as teak and mahogany doors are also possible.
Nearly all cabinet lines, in all grades, offer wall cabinets with glass
doors, which will add an upscale look if your dishes, cups and glassware
match (if you have a hodge-podge, though, this type of cabinet will look
terrible).
Some of the semi-custom and custom lines offer colored stains such as
";Sherwood green" or ";Nantucket blue." These may look intriguing, but
they're trendy and will soon look as dated as the purplish ";pickled
maple" finish that was popular in the early 1990's. You're better off to
stay with a natural wood color; a perennial favorite such as red oak is
always a good bet.
Before
you make your final decision on the doors, try to see an entire kitchen
with the one you have selected, even if this requires some doing (ask
the cabinet dealer if you can see a completed job of a former client or
ask the builder if you can see the finished house of someone who got
them). This is especially important if you want a dark wood or stain
because dark cabinets will make a kitchen appear darker and smaller than
you expect.
Copyright 2001-2002 Katherine Salant. Distributed by
Inman News Features
Install Base - Cabinet Rollouts
Improve the efficiency of your kitchen cabinets
Accessorizing your kitchen cabinets increases the amount
of storage and vastly improves convenience. But if your cabinets are
like most, they have a single fixed shelf in the base units, a couple of
adjustable shelves in the wall units, and a big empty space under the
sink. There are lots of easy-to-install wire baskets and accessories
that you can buy; or you can make your own with readily available
hardware. Since there's lots of underutilized space in base cabinets,
why not start there by installing rollout wire baskets or simple
custom-made drawers installed with drawer slides.
Materials List
-
Tape measure
-
Drill/driver and bits
-
Screwdriver
For wire rollout basket:
-
Bottom-mount rollout
wire basket
-
Side-mount rollout
wire basket
For custom rollout drawer:
-
1/2" or 3/4" plywood
-
1x4 pine
-
Carpenter's wood glue
-
4d finishing nails
-
22" side-mount drawer
slides
1. Remove Fixed Shelf: The fixed shelf is likely set into the sides of
the cabinet and also attached to the thin back. Be careful removing it
or you might damage the cabinet. Often it's helpful to make a couple of
cuts through the shelf from front to back with a jigsaw and then pry the
pieces free.
2. Install Wire Rollout Basket:
2a. Assemble the Kit: Measure your cabinet opening and
note whether your cabinets have a face-frame around the opening. Buy a
suitable rollout kit. Check that you have all the necessary parts and
assemble the unit according to the manufacturer's instructions using a
screwdriver and/or a supplied wrench.
2b. Attach the Slide Guides (Tracks): Locate the tracks
according to the measurements given in the instructions or by using a
paper template if one is provided. Mark the mounting screw locations,
drill the recommended pilot holes, and secure the tracks with screws
provided. Depending on the unit, the tracks may be side-mounted or
bottom-mounted like the one shown here.
2c. Install Assembled Kit: Fit the assembled basket into
place as directed, and check for smooth operation. (If it does not roll
smoothly, it's likely due to improper positioning of the guide tracks.)
3. Install Custom Rollout Drawer:
3a. Measure for the Rollout: The rollout must be no wider
than the space between the doors when they are open to 90 degrees.
Depending on the type of hinges this may be the same as the width of the
cabinet opening or less.
3b. Cut and Assemble Rollout: Cut the floor and sides of
the shelf. To determine the drawer bottom dimension, subtract from the
opening width 1 inch for the slides (unless otherwise specified by the
drawer-slide maker), and 1-1/2 inches for the sides of the rollout.
Subtract 1-1/2 inches from the cabinet depth for the front-to-back
dimension of the shelf. Attach the front and back first, then the side
pieces. Use glue and 4d finishing nails for assembly. Sand all surfaces
well, apply two to three coats of polyurethane according to directions,
and allow the final coat to dry completely.
3c. Install Slides and Rollout Drawer: Attach the drawer
slides as directed to the bottom of each side of the rollout and attach
the mating track to the cabinet wall. If you have face-frame cabinets or
the cabinet doors require that the rollout be narrower than the cabinet
opening width, you'll need spacers from the manufacturers.
Alternatively, build out the wall of the cabinet as required for the
rollout to clear the doors. Slide the rollout into its tracks. Repeat
these three steps for a second shelf.
Garbage Disposal Installation
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