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Plumbing
- Introduction
How old is your
bathroom? How long should it last? Could I change it to make it
nicer?
Common Sense and Safety
Before undertaking any plumbing project, please review these safety
notes:
1.
Safety
glasses or goggles should be worn whenever power tools are in use and
when chiseling, sanding, scraping or hammering overhead, especially if
you wear contact lenses.
2.
Wear
ear protectors when using power tools as some operate at noise levels
that damage hearing.
3.
Be
careful of loose hair and clothing so that it does not get caught in
tools.
4.
The
proper respirator or face mask should be worn when sanding or sawing
or using substances with toxic fumes.
5.
Keep
blades sharp. A dull blade requires excessive force, can slip and
cause accidents.
6.
Always
use the right tool for the job.
7.
Repair
or discard tools with cracks in the wooden handles or chips in the
metal parts that could fail and cause injuries.
8.
Don't
drill, shape or saw anything that isn't firmly secured.
9.
Oily
rags are spontaneously combustible. Take care when you store and
discard them.
10.
Don't
abuse your tools.
11.
Keep a
First Aid Kit on hand.
12.
Do not
work with tools when you are tired. That's when most accidents occur.
13.
Read
the owner's manual for all tools and know the proper use of each.
14.
Keep
tools out of reach of small children.
15.
Unplug
all power tools when changing settings or parts.
Plumbing Codes and
Standards
Standards have been established in the plumbing industry to protect
the health and safety of the community. Faulty plumbing can result in
serious health and safety hazards such as noxious gas backups, back
siphoning, bursting pipes, floods or electrical shorts. To see that
these standards are adhered to, we have plumbing codes and permits.
Although there are several model plumbing codes in print,
regulations regarding design, methods, and materials may differ from
one state, county or municipality to the next and will be spelled out
clearly in local code manuals (most use the Uniform Plumbing Code
Book).
The main areas of code enforcement include:
·
The
size of drain and vent pipes,
·
Size of
supply lines,
·
Type of
materials allowed,
·
Distance from trap to vent arm,
·
Slope
of drain,
·
Height
of drains above the floor,
·
Number
and type of fixtures sharing a vent or drain pipe,
·
Height
of horizontal section of vent pipe above gutter,
·
Distance between pipe supports,
·
Placement of cleanouts, and
·
Use of
certain fittings, sanitary wyes, 45 degree bends, etc.
Contact your local town or county building department or inspector
for a copy of the codes and permits * you will be required to follow
as local codes always supercede the model codes. Materials are of
great controversy and are constantly being updated. In some areas,
plastic pipe is prohibited entirely while in others it is permitted
for the drain/waste and vent system only. Some areas may require
insulating your water pipes or puffing vacuum breakers on your outside
hose bibs. The list can go on and on.
All areas are different and change quite often. Before beginning
any work, be sure your plans conform to all local codes and
ordinances. Discuss your plan's with the local building inspector and
obtain the necessary permits at the same time. Find out what work you
may do yourself and what must be done by a licensed plumber. Be
certain to follow these codes to the letter or you will run the risk
of having to rip out all of your hard work.
Color Sets the Mood
Color is an important part of our environment, especially in the
ways it’s used to remodel our kitchens and bathroom . “Color is a free energy lift!” says Rebecca Ewing of In Living
Color,
Decatur,
Ga.“
It tickles, delights and motivates us. Our attraction to color is an
energy boost that feeds and fuels us.”
The National Kitchen & Bath Association (NKBA) recommends
selecting colors for your new kitchen or bath under lighting
conditions in which they’ll be seen in your home. Also, when designing
your space, remember that color can be used to adjust the visual
perception of an overall space, and perceived size of a room.
Cool, light and dull
colors that keep contrast to a minimum can expand a room’s dimensions
to appear larger than it actually is. While warm, dark, bright colors
with several contrasts can actually shrink a space in the mind’s eye. Although white continues to be the number one color used for
kitchen appliances and bathroom fixtures, other colors are frequently
used in designing these two rooms. Take for instance
Yellow: the color that the eye sees that fastest. Soft yellows can be
cheering and make individuals feel sunny. Bright yellow used as an
accent that attracts attention and helps to brighten a room, but in
large amounts yellow can be over-stimulating.
Green: the ultimate pacifier. Often associated with nature. It is both
relaxing and reassuring. Pale yellow-greens conjure images of growth
while deep greens are associated with status and wealth.
Blue: arouses feelings of freshness, coolness and relaxation. In lighter
hues, blue is airy and open while dark blues represent wealth,
strength and respect evoking the feelings of reassurance in
individuals.
Purple: a noble color in its deepest values, yet it can be flowery and
refreshing in pale violet colorings. Deep purple is rarely used in
large amounts, but is a great effect as an accent color.
Red: attracts attention, causes excitement, and even raise blood
pressure. Intense red is stimulating, however it can also be
distracting in large amounts. Red is associated with wealth and
sophistication, while high value reds (pinks) can make people feel
good about the way they look.
Orange:
stimulating in its pumpkin orange hue or warm in its terracotta and
peach version. As with other intense colors, orange can be
distracting, but it is ideal for attracting attention to details.
Black: evokes feelings of fright but also transcend the feelings of
elegance, excitement and wealth. Like white, black is a color of
contradictions that relies largely on the effect of the other colors
used with it. Black can make large spaces seem smaller and more
intimate.
White: sterile, airy and refreshing, depending on what other colors it is
combined with, while making smaller spaces feel larger and more
spacious.
The Color Marketing Group, consisting of over 600 professional
color designers, is predicting that the following 12 colors will be
the color trends for the new millennium.
·
Innocent Blush – a sheer pink that envelops the viewer in softness and
comfort. Feminine and nurturing, this color has slight peach
undertones.
·
Biscotti – a new neutral that is softer than the traditional carmel.
·
Wasabi
– inspired by Asia, where foliage is more yellow than in
North America and
Europe.
This sophisticated hue is a sheer wash of Celadon, faintly yellowed,
with a whisper of gray.
·
White
Veil – spoken of as nature’s white because of its coolness and lack of
purity are natural.
·
Aluminum Foil - the coldest and most urban interpretation of silver
yet.
·
Colorado Mist – whether metallic or pearlized, bridges beige and gray.
It is described as a warm silver that is both Zen and urban.
·
Spaqua
– the green side of water imagery, this hue is similar to the edge
color of a thick sheet of plate glass.
·
Aero
Blue – a timeless and spiritual color. Represented as a sky
approaching dusk.
·
Atlantis Blue – a universal blue for all cultures. Atlantis is intense
and iridescent, the slight influence of green adds a unique spark that
slightly stirs the psyche.
·
Royal
Plum – expands the purple palette with coloring that is acceptable for
all markets. In its deep hue, royal plum can serve as a neutral, a
bridge to other colors, or it can stand alone.
·
Wild
Berry – a pure, nearly true, bright red.
·
Red
Rock – an Australian-influenced metallic color that will generate a
re-introduction of iron ore hues.
NKBA recommends that color selections be made under lighting conditions
that are representative of the conditions under which they will be
used. This is an important fact to keep in mind when choosing the
color for your kitchen and/or bath.
With so many things to consider about planning and styling your new
room, you may require a little assistance. You have probably realized
by now that you can't go it alone. You'll need the help of a kitchen
and/or bathroom professional. The NKBA can provide you with a list of
member firms, including Certified Kitchen Designers (CKDs) and
Certified Bathroom Designers (CBDs). These are the professionals to
consult when planning your new space. Not only can they design the
layout of the space and supervise the installation, they can also help
you to achieve a room that fits your style.
Reprinted with permission by the National Kitchen and Bath Association
Plumbing Inspections
Your plumbing work may require inspections at several different
stages from the rough to the finished work. Inspection officers can be
tough on plumbing as faulty work can cause health problems if raw
sewage leaks out. Also, a licensed plumber may be required to attach
your pipes to the public sewer line and water supply.
Usually the plumbing is inspected in the rough and finished
plumbing stages. The code office may require that you fill both supply
and waste system with water or air under a specified pounds per square
inch of pressure to check leaks. They will check the entire waste
system for:
·
Size of
pipes and pressure rating,
·
Number
of fixtures on a drain or vent pipe,
·
Slope
of pipe,
·
Leaks,
·
Fittings used in an improper way
·
Height
of drains,
·
Height
of the horizontal runs of the vent pipes, and
·
Air gap
fitting on dishwasher waste line.
They will also check the supply system for:
·
Leaks
·
Vacuum
breaks on outside hose bibb valves,
·
Size of
pipes,
·
Galvanized pipe touching copper pipe, and
·
Air
cushions (chambers) installed on supply lines to prevent banging.
CAUTION: Never cover your rough plumbing pipes until they have been
inspected.
Plumbing Projects - Drain Waste Vent System
Most Common Mistakes
1.
Violating or ignoring code restrictions,
2.
Not
installing D/W/V with at least a 1/4" slope per one foot pipe,
3.
Not
properly venting or trapping all fixtures,
4.
Attaching too many fixtures to a drain or vent pipe,
5.
Using
pipes that are too small,
6.
Not
providing enough cleanouts or not providing cleanouts at the
prescribed places,
7.
Venting
the fixture too far from the fixture's trap,
8.
Not
properly aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the
nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an
angle will cause a leak.)
9.
Using a
fitting in a wrong position,
10.
Installing rough plumbing in the wrong location,
11.
Reducing pipe size as the pipes run downstream,
12.
Cutting
pipe too long and not allowing for the ridge in the fittings, and
13.
Forcing
the trap and waste arm fittings out of alignment and putting too much
stress on the nuts and washers in the tubing.
Make certain the compression tubing is put in the fittings so that it
is evenly tightened.
Installing Drain Waste
Vent Pipe
Running the pipe can be tricky. All different kinds of fittings are
available to turn in different and receive different sizes of pipe at
various angles. One fitting may need 3 opening ports, all
accommodating a size pipe. You will have to plan your runs and buy the
necessary fittings (always get a few extra). Keep in mind that codes
may regulate how fittings can be used* (i.e. sanitary tees may not be
used in a vertical to horizontal connections long sweep connection
must be used here). You will need to know the diameter of your pipes,
their angles, the code and their direction to determine each fitting.
While
planning may take some time and study, the cutting and assembly of
plastic pipe is very simple
1.
Using
a back saw or a fine toothed saw, cut the pipe the required length,
remembering that the pipe fits into the fitting a prescribed distance
for each diameter of pipe.
2.
Use a
small knife or rough sandpaper to remove the "burr" off the freshly
cut pipe.
3.
With a
rag and some cleaning solvent, clean the ends of the pipe and the
inside of fitting where the pipe will join. (ABS does not need this
solvent or primer. It can be wiped clean with a damp rag.)
4.
The
glue will dry almost immediately and you can never get it unglued. To
change the connection you must cut out the fitting and start over.
Because of this, you want to be sure you have it right the first time.
This is very easy in some cases, but often you will have a number of
pipes coming into a fitting from several different angles. All of
these must meet correctly once they are permanently glued. To assure
this, "dry fit" the fittings and pipe by cutting and assembling
everything without glue to assure it all fits at the correct angles
and dimensions.
5.
Make
marks across fittings and pipe so that once the pipes are removed and
the glue is spread, you will know exactly how to realign everything
when the pipes are inserted permanently into the fitting. (Be sure the
marks or lines are long enough on the pipe so that they will not be
covered by the glue you will spread on the pipe.)
6.
Spread
a generous amount of the required pipe glue around the end of the pipe
and on the inside of the fitting with a dobber.
7.
Insert
the pipe into the fitting until it "bottoms out" and give it a little
twist to be sure that the glue is spread evenly.
One of the most difficult parts about running drain waste vent
pipes is drilling the large (2-3") holes necessary to run the pipe.
You will need to purchase, borrow or rent special heavy duty plumbers'
bits that are notched to fit 1 1/2", 2" and 2 1/2" pipe. The cheaper
hole saw is just too difficult when you are doing a large project. You
will also need a heavy duty 1/2" or 3/4" drill (preferably a right
angle drill or one with a right angle attachment). Be careful, as
drilling with these large bits often causes the bit to bind and the
drill to spin.
Plumbing Projects - Water System Supply
Most Common Mistakes
1.
Violating or ignoring code restrictions,
2.
Using
supply pipes that are too small,
3.
Moving
or knocking copper pipes while the newly sweated fittings are still
hot,
4.
Creating fire hazards by leaving materials smoldering after sweating
fittings,
5.
Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric
fitting between the two,
6.
Not
using Teflon tape or pipe compound at threaded pipe joints,
7.
Not
running pipes to correct locations, and
8.
Trying
to solder a pipe joint when the water has not been completely drained.
(Be certain the main valve is turned off and that the supply lines
are drained at the lowest point of the house, at the tub/shower and at
the sinks. Flush all toilets.)
9.
If you
drain the lines at the outside hose valve, this is best. Just be sure
this valve is fed from the house main rather than from the well or
city water main.)
10.
When
turning the water back on in your home, always run the outside hose
valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This
debris can cause problems in your sink faucets and other plumbing
trim.
Joining Copper Pipe
You will need to purchase your copper fittings in accordance with
the joining method you will be using. Soldering is the method used to
join hard copper pipes together. For this you will require a small
butane or propane torch, 00 steel wool or emery cloth, a wire pipe
brush, a can of soldering flux and some solid core wire solder. Check
you local code * for the wire solder required in your area. Some
require 50/50 which is 50% tin and 50% lead which is stronger than
60/40 for a better joint connection. Others use lead free
Measuring and Cutting
Copper Pipe
To determine the length of copper pipe, you will need to measure
the distance between the fittings and add the distance the pipe will
extend into each fitting. Keep in mind that pipe insert distances will
vary for various types of joints. Although usually 1/2" pipe will
insert 1/2" and a 3/4" pipe inserts 3/4". Copper pipe can be cut with
a pipe cutter that has a blade designed for cutting copper.
Use the cutter by placing the pipe into the opening and twist the
knob until the cutting wheel just pierces the copper pipe. Then rotate
the cutter around the pipe, tightening the knob after each revolution,
until the pipe snaps in two. After you have cut the pipe, use the
special blade on the tubing cutter to ream out the "burr" on the
inside of the newly cut pipe.
Tip: Whether using hard or soft copper tubing, take care not to damage
it as you work. Cover the jaws of wrenches or vices with electrician's
tape.
Soldering
1.
Drain
the pipes completely for any water in the pipes will interfere with a
successful soldering job. Turn off the main water supply valve and
open a faucet at the low end of the pipes. Usually an outside hose
bibb works best.
Hint. Once the water has drained out, stuff some plain white
bread into the pipe near the fitting you are about to solder to absorb
any remaining moisture. Once you turn the water on again, the bread
will disintegrate.
2.
Use the
steel wool, emery cloth or very fire sandpaper to polish the last inch
of the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting down to the
shoulder. Wire pipe brushes that clean both the outside of the pipe
and the inside of the fittings, are also available in both 1/2 and 3/4
inch sizes. It is important that you clean both fitting and pipe
thoroughly. Time spent on this step will save time later fixing
leaking joints. It is much easier to do it right the first time.
3.
Apply
flux around the polished inside of the fitting and around the polished
outside of the pip end. (Some solders are available that contain the
flux within the solder.)
4.
Place
the fitting on the pipe, twisting back and forth a couple of times to
assure even distribution of the flux.
5.
Heat
the bottom of the pipe first with the propane torch. Slowly pass the
torch back and forth across the fitting to distribute the heat evenly.
Take care not to get the fitting too hot because the flux will burn
away to nothing. You can tell the joint is hot enough when the
soldering wire will melt easily on contact with it and not stick. By
touching the soldering wire to the joint occasionally as you heat it,
you can avoid overheating. The moment the wire melts, the joint is
ready.
6.
Remove
the torch and touch the soldering wire to the edge of the fitting. The
solder should pull in between the fitting and the pipe by capillary
action. Continue to solder until a line of molten solder shows all the
way around the fitting. Be certain there are no air gaps between the
solder and the pipe fitting.
7.
Wipe
off the excess surface solder with a damp rag before it solidifies,
leaving a trace of solder showing in the crevice between fitting and
pipe.
Caution!
Keep your hands well away from the hot joint and take care not to bump
or move the newly soldered joint until it has cooled.
Air Chambers or Cushions
Installing a
supply stop valve
Often pipes will bang when a faucet or valve is suddenly cut off.
This can damage the pipe and is irritating to live with. The banging
is caused because water does not compress when its flow is suddenly
stopped. To prevent this, we recommend installing manufactured air
chambers, or shock absorbers, into the hot and cold supply lines at
each fixture. These contain inert gas and bellows that absorb the
shock. These manufactured products work better than using a one foot
length of copper pipe as these must be drained every few years. These
fittings may need to be replaced or have parts within them replaced on
a regular schedule.
Plumbing Projects - Toilet
Plumbing for Your Toilet
Here we offer general instructions and precautions for roughing in,
as well as installation procedures for tying into your present drain
waste vent and supply systems. When all the roughing in has been
completed and you are ready to assemble your toilet, your rough
plumbing should resemble that shown here.
Most Common Mistakes
1.
Violating or ignoring local code restrictions.
2.
Using
pipes that are too small.
3.
Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric
fitting between the two.
4.
Not
using Teflon tape or pipe compound at threaded joints.
5.
Not
leveling your fixtures when installing them.
6.
Not
installing an air gap filling for fixtures.
7.
Cutting
supply stub outs too short to install the shutoff valves onto after
the finished wall is in place, or
8.
Not
properly aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the
nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an
angle will cause a leak.)
9.
When
turning the water back on in your home, always run the outside hose
valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This
debris can cause problems in your sink faucets and other plumbing
trim.
Installing your Toilet
Pipes required include a cold water supply stub out with a shutoff
valve, flexible tubing for above the valve, and possibly one air
chamber.
This is possibly the single, most troublesome fixture to install as
it requires its own 2" minimum vent and a drain of at least 3" in
diameter. If the toilet is situated on a branch drain, it cannot be
upstream from the sink or shower. The minimum side distance allowed
from the center of the toilet bowl to a wall is 15 inches 12 inches
to a bathtub, and clearance from the front of a bowl to a wall or
fixture should be 21 inches.
1.
The
closet bend and toilet floor flange must be roughed in first. When
replacing a toilet, you will need to scrape up the old wax gasket. A
putty knife works well for this. Remove the old bolts from the floor
flange and scrape the flange clean to prevent leaks at the base of the
new bowl. If the old flange is cracked or broken, replace it with a
new floor flange.
2.
Position the floor flange so that the underside of the flange is at
the level of the finished floor. (it is always best to install the
finished floor so that it runs underneath the toilet.) You may need to
use a piece of finished flooring material if the floor has not yet
been installed. Now you can finish tightening the screws that hold the
floor flange to the floor. Put a small level on the flange while
tightening to be sure it is level.
3.
Set the
new floor bolts in plumber's putty and insert them through the flange,
adjusting the bolts so they line up with the center of the drainpipe.
4.
With
the new toilet bowl turned upside down, position the new wax gasket
over the toilet horn on the bottom of the bowl.
5.
Apply
plumber's putty around the entire bottom edge of the bowl.
6.
Using
the bolts as guides, lower the bowl into place over the flange. Press
down firmly while giving a slight twist. It is important that you feel
the toilet being pushed into the wax ring. If you do not feel this,
the flange is set too low and you will not get a good wax seal between
the flange and the horn (waste outlet). Also, if the wax ring is cold,
it will not properly seat. You may need to warm it in the sun for
awhile until it is pliable.
7.
Use a
level to level the bowl, adding shims where necessary. Also be sure
the toilet is square and aligned with the wall. Then tighten the nuts
and washers onto the bolts by hand.
8.
Place
the rubber tank cushion (if one is needed) into position on the rear
of the bowl and fit the rubber gasket onto the flush valve opening on
the bottom of the tank.
9.
Position the tank over the bowl; then tighten the nuts and washers
onto the mounting bolts.
10.
Tighten
the hold-down bolts at the base of the bowl with an adjustable wrench.
Use your level to assure the bowl is still level.
11.
Fill
the decorative caps with plumber's putty and place them over the bolt
ends. Seal the base of the toilet bowl with plumber's putty or
silicone caulk.
12.
Cut the
end of your supply line stub out and attach a shut off valve. Then,
connect the shutoff valve to the flexible tubing and connect the
tubing to the bottom of the tank, where you will find a supply stub
out.
Plumbing Projects - Bathroom Sink
Here we
offer general instructions and precautions for roughing in, as well as
installation procedures for tying into your present drain waste vent
and supply systems. When all the roughing in has been completed and
you are ready to assemble your bathroom sink, your rough plumbing
should resemble that shown here.
Most Common Mistakes
Violating or ignoring local code restrictions,
1.
Using
pipes that are too small,
2.
Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric
fitting between the two,
3.
Not
using Teflon tape or pipe compound at threaded joints,
4.
Not
leveling your fixtures when installing them,
5.Not installing an air gap filling for fixtures,
6.
Cutting
supply stub outs too short to install the shutoff valves onto after
the finished wall is in place.
7.Not properly
aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto
the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will
cause a leak.)
8.
When
turning the water back on in your home, always run the outside hose
valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This
debris can cause problems in your sink faucets and other plumbing
trim.
Installing your Bathroom Sink
Pipes required for roughing in the bathroom sink include hot and
cold supply stubouts, shutoff valves, transition fittings, and
possibly flexible tubing for above the shutoff valves. Air chambers
may also be required*.
If you are installing the bathroom sink in a back to back
arrangement, little pipe is required. Since a sink rates low in
fixture units, it should have little effect on the present drain's
efficiency. Refer to the fixture unit chart in the Uniform Plumbing
Code Book*. This fixture can often be wet vented if it is within the
critical distance. If not, it must be back vented in some areas.
Clearance from the side of a bathroom sink to a toilet tank or
finished wall should be at least 4 inches while distance to a tub may
be as little as two inches. There must also be a minimum of 21 inches
from the front edge to a wall or fixture.
When cutting the capped supply lines to install your shut off
valves, cut the 1/2" copper supply line at least 1 1/2 inches from the
finished wall to allow for an escutcheon and shut off valve
compression nut and ring
1.
Cut
carefully and slowly so as not to compress the pipe with the cutter
wheel or flatten the pipe. The compression ring and nut will only
tighten on a round pipe.
2.
Assemble the faucet according to the directions on the package.
3.
Slip on
the escutcheon, the coupling nut, the compression ring and the valve.
Hold the valve outlet up and slide it over the compression ring.
4.
Tighten
down the coupling nut onto the valve using two crescent wrenches. It
will usually squeak when it is properly seated
5.
Connect
the trap to the drain body and the drain pipe.
6.
When
water pressure is restored, run water into the basin and check for any
leaks
Plumbing Projects - Shower and Bathtub
Here we offer general instructions and precautions for roughing in,
as well as installation procedures for tying into your present drain
waste vent and supply systems. When all the roughing in has been
completed and you are ready to assemble your shower and bathtub, your
rough plumbing should resemble that shown here.
Most Common Mistakes
·
Violating or ignoring local code restrictions,
·
Using
pipes that are too small,
·
Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric
fitting between the two,
·
Not
using Teflon tape or pipe compound at threaded joints,
·
Not
leveling your fixtures when installing them,
·
Not
installing an air gap filling for fixtures,
·
Cutting
supply stub outs too short to install the shutoff valves onto after
the finished wall is in place, or
·
Not
properly aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the
nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an
angle will cause a leak.)
·
When
turning the water back on in your home, always run the outside hose
valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This
debris can cause problems in your sink faucets and other plumbing
trim.
Installing your Shower and Bathtub
Pipes required include the hot and cold supply lines and a pipe
leading to a shower head. A mixing valve and shower head are also
needed. Air chambers may be required.
Bath/shower fixtures also rate low in fixture units and are often
positioned on branch drains and wet or back vented as are the sinks.
Both shower stalls and tubs enter the stack at floor level or below
because of the position of the floor drain trap. The faucet and shower
head assembly require an open wall for installation. Remember bathtubs
and shower stalls may require support framing. A bathtub filled with
water is extremely heavy so check building codes and framing support
before installing the tub. The minimum floor area required for a
shower stall is 1,024 square inches, and you should allow 24 inches
from the stall itself to any other fixture or wall.
1.
Install
all piping before installing the tub itself.
2.
Lower
the tub into place so that the continuous flange fits against the wall
studs and rests on 1 x 4 or 2 x 4 supports. Anchor the tub to the
enclosure with nails or screws inserted through the flanges into the
studs.
3.
Assemble the drain connections by connecting the tub overflow with
the tub drain ABOVE the trap, not beyond it. The trap will have a
compression fitting that screws over the arm of the overflow
assembly.
4.
Hot and
cold water lines are run to the tub/shower mixing valve where they are
attached, usually by, sweating these directly into the hot and cold
ports of the mixing valve.
5.
Run a
pipe up the wall for the shower head. On the top of this pipe, sweat
on a brass female threaded winged fitting that is nailed or screwed
into a framing support.
6.
Extend a piece of 1/2" pipe, according to the manufacturer's
instructions, for the tub spout. Sweat on a male threaded fitting at
the end of the pipe or use a brass nipple of the proper length and a
1/2" cap.
7.
At
this time you will need to have your rough plumbing inspected.
8.
Restore water pressure and check the drain connection and the supply
pipes for any leaks
9.
Replace the wall with moisture resistant drywall as a base for your
wall covering. Seal joints between the wall and your new tub with
silicone caulk as protection against water seepage.
10.
Install the Spout, handles and shower head. The shower head screws
onto the shower arm stub out. Whether installing a new shower head or
replacing an old one, always clean the pipe threads and apply new pipe
joint compound, Teflon tape or both to prevent leaks.
A
Very Disposable Tip About Garbage Disposers
For the most
part, garbage disposals are self-cleaning and virtually maintenance
free. However, a malfunctioning garbage disposal can mean a messy
headache, but one that can be avoided. Here are some ideas to keep
your unit in good working order.
Always run cold
water when grinding in order to move the waste all the way through the
drain lines. Fats and grease congeal and harden in cold water which
can then be flushed through the system. Don't use hot water when
grinding because it can dissolve fats and grease, which may then
accumulate in the drainline. Almost all biodegradable food waste can
be fed into disposals.
However, do not
throw down the disposal clam or oyster shells, corn husks or other
material with a high fiber content. Under no circumstances should you
put glass, plastic or metal non-food materials through a disposal.
This includes bottle caps, tin covers or aluminum foil--these are some
of the items service technicians commonly find in clogged or broken
disposals.
Maintenance is
easy. Grinding small bones and egg shells actually helps clean the
disposal by scraping away stubborn deposits or citric acid and pulp.
Grinding a little ice is another way to clean out deposits and get rid
of odors.
How to Install a Kitchen Sink
When redecorating your kitchen, don't forget to replace the sink. A
new sink can beautifully accent the kitchen and give it a whole new
look. Instead of looking at that old, outdated sink, you can install a
new sink with just the right colors to accent your redecorated
kitchen. When installing a kitchen sink, there are many different
decisions that need to be made. Even the simplest of sinks are
available in different types, styles and colors so choosing the
perfect one for your kitchen is not quite as easy as you may think.
Regardless of the type that you choose for your kitchen, the
installation is nearly the same for each sink.
Styles & Materials: Consider the space available to you and the style
of sink that would be preferable for it. Most sinks are made in either
single-bowl or double-bowl styles, but triple-bowls are also
available. Consider a triple-bowl if you need extra room for pots and
pans. Triple-bowls are also beneficial if you wish to have an extra
sink specifically for your garbage disposal. The third sink is usually
smaller to take up less space, while still separating your garbage
disposal from your dishes. When choosing a sink size and type, keep in
mind exactly what are your kitchen sink needs.
Kitchen sinks are also available in several different materials.
Stainless steel is very durable and usually inexpensive, but
it tends to have an industrial look to it. Although stainless steel is
an economical choice, its shine is difficult to maintain so your most
easy-to-care-for choice would be a matte or brushed finish.
A more expensive surface finish is enameled cast iron which is a
very heavy, durable material. The enamel finish is available in an
array of colors to accent any kitchen. Most stainless steel or enameled cast iron sinks are
available in 18 gauge, 20 gauge, or 22 gauge, depending on your needs.
All are equipped with holes for the assembly of faucet and other
accessories.
Types of Sinks: The most commonly used sinks are self-rimming
sinks and surface-mounted sinks. The self-rimming sink has its own rim
which is built into the sink itself, whereas the surface-mounted sink
must be attached by a separate metal rim and tightening screws. Both
types are similar in installation and fairly easy to install. One type
of sink which is slightly more difficult to install is the undermount,
also known as recessed, sink. This sink eliminates the upper ring, so
food and debris can be wiped directly into the sink. When installing
an undermount sink, it is important to pay close attention to the size
of the hole you are sawing to avoid water leaks.
Tools and Materials You Need:
Sink of choice
Strainer assembly, faucet and accessories of
choice
Pencil
Drill
Saber saw (or hand saw and keyhole saw)
Plumber's putty
Supply tubing
Flat wrenches
Step 1: Trace an Opening on the Countertop: Begin by
marking your countertop for cut out. Most kitchen sinks are installed
directly into the countertop or the existing plywood if you plan to
install tile around the sink. When tracing your opening on the plywood
or countertop, leave at least 1 1/2 inches on the front edge of the
sink. Remember that if your countertop is wider than 24 inches, you
should leave more than 1 1/2 inches depending on the size of the
countertop, but do not leave more that 3 to 4 inches. Once the sink is
positioned in a preferable spot, trace around the edge of the sink.
After removing the sink, draw a line 3/8-inch to 1/2-inch inside the
traced outline of the sink.
·
Caution:
The easiest method to ensure the correct size
opening for the sink is to place the sink upside down on the
countertop or plywood sheet and trace around the outer edge of the
sink. If you are installing a surface-mounted sink, use the metal rim
as the template to trace around.
Step 2: Cut the Sink Hole: Now you are ready to cut the opening for the
sink. Drill 4 holes, one in each corner inside the inner line. These
holes will be starting points for the sawing, so they must be large
enough to fit the blade of a saber saw. Once your holes are drilled,
saw along the inner line between each hole with a saber saw. Since the
rim of the sink will cover the sawed edges, it is not necessary for
the edges to be perfectly straight. Pay close attention to staying
close to the inner line while sawing to ensure correct placement of
the sink. Remember to attach the faucet and sink accessories to the
sink before sink installation.
·
Tip: If a saber saw is not available to you, a hand saw will work
just as well for the straight edged sawing and a keyhole saw will work
for the curved edges.
Step 3: Insert the Sink: Apply a layer of plumber's putty around the rim
of the sink. Use sealant if included with the sink. Position the sink
in the hole and press down firmly. After the sink is positioned and
securely in place, you can attach the faucet to the plumbing source.
Using a length of supply tubing, attach the faucet to each angle stop.
Once the faucet is connected, tighten each nut with a flat wrench.
Step 4: Assemble and Attach the Drain: Finally, install the drain piece
into the sink. Distribute plumber's putty along the edge of the drain
opening and press the strainer body into place. Once the drain is
correctly in position, tighten the locknut with a wrench. By following
the manufacturer's directions, assemble the p-trap and connect it to
the drain opening. You will want to use two slip nuts to connect the
assembled piece to the drain stubout. Once the assembled drain is in
place, tighten the nuts firmly by hand.
·
Tip: While tightening with a wrench, hold the drain steady with a
pliers the keep the strainer from turning out of place
Faucet Basics
IMPORTANT: Read this before you start
Introduction
Faucets are available in an ever-increasing variety of types and
styles, no matter if they are for the kitchen or bathroom. Aside from
the standard chrome faucet with compression type valves, there are
also faucets that use ball valves, cartridges and even ceramic discs,
all available in stainless steel, brass, or colored enamel finishes.
Choosing the right faucet may seem confusing, but it really boils
down to just three considerations, size, finish, and function. Size
refers to how the holes are configured on your sink as well as general
considerations of whether or not the handles will have enough room to
swing around. The finish, aside from what you think looks good, is
best evaluated by the length of any guarantee the manufacturer offers.
Finally, function refers to the method in which the faucet operates;
one or two valves, or a levered operation.
Before you start...
·
Caution:
Make
sure to wear safety glasses when working under the sink as bits of
rust and metal can fall into your eyes as you are working.
·
Helpful Tips:
Before doing any work on your faucet make sure
to close the drain so small parts do not fall in it.
·
Helpful Tips:
When
choosing a faucet, especially a shower/bath faucet, choose handles
that can be easily griped and turned with soapy hands. Round, sleek
handles may look nice until your hand slips trying to turn off water
that is too hot.
·
Helpful Tips:
If your
faucet or shower pressure is low or uneven, try cleaning the aerator
or showerhead. Just unscrew it, take it apart being careful to keep
track of the parts and their order, and clean any grit out of the
showerhead. Then reassemble and reinstall it.
Learning Tips
1.
The
basic parts of a faucet are as follows; the tail piece (a), The
distance between tail pieces (b), the mounting nut (c) to hold the
faucet to the sink, the supply tube (d) for supplying the water to the
faucet, the shutoff valve (e) where the supply of water to the faucet
can be turned off before commencing repairs, the aerator (f) mixes the
water coming out of the spout with air to prevent splashing, the
control valve (g) detailed in the next four steps, controls the flow
of water out of the spout.
2.
Faucets
with compression valves are almost always made with separate hot and
cold valves. What distinguishes a compression valve from other types
is that it will have a rubber washer at its base that compresses
against a valve seat to shut off the water. Often this action of the
washer compressing against the valve seat can be felt as a slight
increase in turning resistance as you shut off the water. To repair a
compression type valve you most likely will have to replace the rubber
parts or replace/resurface the valve seat.
3.
Faucets
with Ball-type valves are found on single handle faucets. Typically, a
ball valves action is like a car stick shift only with left and right
motions controlling the hot and cold and front and back to control the
flow. Repair involves replacing the rubber parts, which are typically
sold in kits. Sometimes you may need more than a repair kit as some
moving parts that not included in repair kits, such as the ball, can
also cause leaks from wear.
4.
Faucets
with cartridge type valves are available in both single and double
handle styles. The double handle styles operate just like compression
valves with the exception that the action is completely consistent
with no need to apply any extra pressure when closing the valve as you
do sometimes with compression valves. The action for single handle
faucets resembles that of ball valves except that the flow is
controlled by raising or lowering the handle, instead of pushing it
front or back. Repair of these valves involves replacing the entire
cartridge. This is convenient as the cartridge often contains all the
parts subject to wear. However, it should be noted that the cartridge
could also be expensive.
5.
Faucets
with ceramic discs are a relatively recent development. Their
operation is virtually indistinguishable from cartridge type valves,
however because of the durable materials used, if there are problems
you should only have to take them apart and clean the parts to repair
leaks.
6.
There
are three basic hole configurations for mounting faucets on sinks. The
most popular configuration is two holes that are four inches apart on
center (measured from the center of the holes, see "a") with a center
hole between them (three holes total). Another similar configuration
is two holes eight inches apart on center with a center hole between
them (often called a spread set configuration). Finally, there might
be just a single hole, a common configuration for newer sinks and
faucets.
7.
Working
on faucets requires some specialized tools. Aside from the usual
wrenches and pliers that can be found in most toolboxes, you should
also have a basin wrench (a) for turning faucet mounting nuts from
under a sink, a set of deep sockets (b) for removing shower/bath
valves, a seat wrench (c) for unscrewing valve seats, a seat-dressing
tool (d) for resurfacing non removable seats, and a handle puller (e)
to safely remove handles that are stuck.
How to Install a Faucet
When redecorating or modernizing your kitchen, don't forget the
faucets. The beauty of a new faucet can bring a modern look to any
kitchen. Modern faucets are very different from those made years ago.
Since they have acquired many more parts, they have become slightly
more difficult to install. Although the process can be confusing, the
modern sinks are much more durable and last longer so it is worth your
while. In addition, the many different parts on the modern faucet
working together result in fewer leaking problems. This is a project
that anyone can do.
Types: The 2 main faucet types most commonly used are compression faucets
and mixing faucets. The compression faucet has a handle that gives
water pressure by twisting on and off. It is usually seen in hose
bibs, which are outdoor faucets, washing machine hookups, and
dual-handled sink fixtures. The modern type is the mixing faucet or
the washerless faucet. It has a lever or knob that controls water flow
and temperature. The mixing faucet is more durable than the
compression faucet so it has become more frequently used. This type is
used for sinks, bathtubs, showers and wash basins.
Faucet Variations: If you are buying a new faucet without supply
yubing, buy two supply tubes of either braided steel or vinyl mesh to
be attached to the faucet. You can also use BP plastic or chromed
copper for supply tubing, or just buy a faucet that comes with
pre-attached copper supply tubes, which connect directly to the water
supply.
Tools and Materials You Need:
·
Penetrating oil
·
Basin
wrench or channel-type pliers
·
Putty
knife
·
Caulk
gun
·
Adjustable wrenches
·
Faucet
of choice (including sink sprayer)
·
Silicone caulk or plumber's putty
·
Two
flexible supply tubes
Removing the Old Faucet
Step 1: Remove Coupling Nuts:
Turn off the water before you begin. Using penetrating oil, spray the
tailpiece mounting nuts and coupling nuts to loosen them for
detaching. Using a basin wrench or channel-type pliers, remove the
coupling nuts. Turn off the water before you begin. Using penetrating
oil, spray the tailpiece mounting nuts and coupling nuts to loosen
them for detaching. Using a basin wrench or channel-type pliers,
remove the coupling nuts.
Step 2: Unscrew Tailpiece:
Use a basin wrench or channel-type pliers to unscrew the tailpiece
mounting nuts and remove the faucet.
Step 3: Clean the Surface:
After removing the faucet, scrape away the old putty from the surface
of the sink with a putty knife.
Installing New Faucet with Separate Supply Tubing
Step 1: Insert the Faucet: Insert the new faucet into the sink's holes.
Using either silicone caulk or plumber's putty, apply a bead 1/4-inch
thick to the base of the faucet as seen in figure 3. Attach the faucet
to the sink making sure the base is parallel to the back of the sink.
Press the faucet down firmly so that it is sealed tightly to the sink.
Wipe the excess caulk from the surface of the faucet after it has been
pressed into place.
Step 2: Tighten the Nuts:
Connect the metal friction washers and then the
mounting nuts to the tailpiece using a basin wrench or channel-type
pliers.
Step 3: Attach the Tubing:
Attach the supply tubes to the tailpiece and
use a basin wrench or channel-type pliers to tighten the coupling
nuts.
Step 4: Connect the Water Source:
When the supply tubing is attached to the sink, connect it to the
water source at the shutoff valves using compression fittings. Tighten
the nuts by hand then, using an adjustable wrench, tighten the nuts
1/4 of a turn. This will ensure that the nuts are not on too tight.
·
Tip:
When
tightening the supply tubing to the valve, hold the valve with another
wrench to keep it from turning out of place.
Installing Faucet with
Pre-attached Tubing
Step 1: Install the Faucet: Follow the same instructions as you would when
installing a faucet with separate tubing. It is not necessary to
connect tubing to the faucet since it is already pre-attached, so
leave out step 3.
Step 2: Connect Supply Tubing: Using a basin wrench or channel-type
pliers, connect the pre-attached supply tubes to the shutoff valves.
The tubing labeled red connects to the hot water source and the tubing
labeled blue connects to the cold water source.
Attaching a Sink Sprayer
Step 1: Insert Sprayer: Using plumber's putty or silicone caulk, apply
a bead 1/4 inch thick to the base of the sprayer. Insert the end of
the sprayer hose into the sink opening and press the sprayer into
place.
Step 2: Attach Mounting Nut: Screw the mounting nut onto the
tailpiece of the sprayer after placing a washer over the tailpiece.
Tighten the mounting nut with a basin wrench or channel-type pliers
and remove the extra putty from the base of the sprayer.
Step 3: Attach the Hose to the Faucet:
Connect the hose to the hose nipple found on the bottom of the faucet.
Using a basin wrench or channel-type pliers, tighten the screw 1/4 of
a turn.
How To Replace a
Faucet
Faucets are replaced for a variety of reasons. There are several
things to look out for when choosing a new faucet. The hole patterns
of your old faucet should match the pattern of the new faucet. If
there is any doubt about the pattern, take the old faucet with you or
measure carefully for the hole placement.
Step 1
. Cut water supply off at the shut off valves. These are usually
under the sink; if not cut the water off to the home from outside at
the main water valve.
Step 2 . Remove the supply lines with a crescent wrench. Some water is
left in the lines so a catch basin or bucket will be needed.
Step 3 . With the supply lines disconnected, you can now remove the
faucet by releasing the nuts under the counter top. Use a basin wrench
to do this because it is a tight area to work in. If the nuts are
difficult to remove use penetrating oil to loosen the nuts. Disconnect
the other end of the supply lines and lift the faucet out after
removing the nuts.
Note: The pop-up stopper in the sink will need to be disconnected
before removing the faucet. The three most common assemblies are:
1.
Those
that sit on top of the pivot rod and simply lift out.
2.
Those
that require a twist to free them because of a slot that hooks the
body to the arm.
3.
Stoppers that are attached with a pivot rod. The pivot rod is released
by loosening a clevis screw on the lift rod assembly. Know which type
of stopper you have. It is a good idea to draw a diagram when
disconnecting the stopper to help with the reassembly.
Step 4 . Apply Teflon tape to prevent leaks at each new nipple. Check the
new faucet for a gasket. If the new faucet does not have a gasket, use
plumber's putty to create a seal.
Step 5 . Replace the basin nuts and attach the supply lines. Check the
seat of the lines. Make sure the brass washer is in good shape and
fits down properly before tightening the supply line nuts.
Salvaging that Unreplaceable Faucet Stem
I have an outside shower that the family uses all summer long. The
faucet stems are old and the flat ends (that support the washer) have
broken and present a partial flat end thereby making it impossible to
place even pressure on the washer and seat. Therefore the darned thing
leaks no matter how often the washers are replaced and replaced and
replaced! Drilling a hole in the middle of a penny (pennies are NOT
considered legal tender, so this is a lawful act) and screwing the
penny into the stem firmly, makes it easy to grind it on a grinding
wheel to the appropriate size. I then use acid flux to sweat-solder
the penny in position using a torch for heat. Use a steel screw to
hold the penny in position for the soldering job. The solder won't
hold to the screw so it will come out after the whole thing cools
down. You can then use the typical brass screw to mount the washer.
This helpful article was provided by
DoItYourself.com community member Walter Kast.
Repair a Leaky Washer-Type Faucet
If you're not into water torture, then you probably can't stand the
drip, drip, drip of a leaky faucet. Fortunately, you don't need to
call a plumber to save you. These steps detail how to fix the leak in
a washer-type faucet in no time.
Washer-type faucets work with a rubber or composition washer that
closes onto a metal washer seat When the washer becomes hardened, worn
or the washer seat wears, it causes the faucet to leak. You can close
the faucet tighter to stop the leaking temporarily, but this increases
the internal damage to the faucet. Here's how to fix it.
Step 1. Turn off the Water: If there's a shutoff valve beneath the
fixture, turn off the water at that point. Otherwise, turn it off at
the main house shutoff valve in the basement, utility room, or
crawlspace. Turn off the hot water supply at the water heater.
Step 2. Take the Faucet Apart: Start by removing the handle (this may
not be necessary on some older faucets). Loosen the Phillips-head
screw, which usually is beneath a decorative cap in the center of the
handle. The cap either unscrews or snaps off when you pry it with a
knife blade. Next, lift or pry the handle off its broached stem.
Unscrew the packing nut beneath the handle, exposing the rest of the
stem. Remove the stem by rotating it in the "on" direction. It will
thread out. Reinstall the handle if you have difficulty turning it .
Clean chips from the faucet cavity, but do not use harsh abrasives or
a file.
·
Tip:
If you must use pliers on decorative faucet parts, pad them with
electrical tape or cloth to protect the finish. And take special care
with the plastic parts found on many modern faucets.
Step 3. Examine the Stem: If the threads are badly corroded or worn,
take it to your retailer and get a new stem to match. Clean the stem
if it's dirty.
Step 4. Check the Washer: The washer is located on the lower end of the
stem and held in place by a brass screw. If the washer is squeezed
flat or has a groove worn in it, replace it - this should stop any
dripping. Take the washer to your True Value store or dealer to ensure
an exact match in size and style. If the brass screw is damaged,
replace it with a new brass screw.
·
Tip:
It's important to install the correct type of faucet washer. A
swiveling washer is preferable to either A or B. To install washer
style C, file the shoulder off the end of the stem, drill out the
threads of the screw hole. Instead of rubbing against the seat as it
closes, a swiveling washer closes with a straight-down, frictionless
action - this allows it to outlast fixed washers.
Step5. Look at Washer Seat: Any faucet that needs frequent washer
replacement usually has a damaged seat. The washer seat is located
inside the faucet body. The seat should either be refaced with a
seat-dressing tool or replaced:
Replace Washer Seat: Some washer seats can be unthreaded and
replaced. Check the faucet body with a flashlight to see if it has a
square or hexagonal hole through its center or is slotted for a
screwdriver; if so, it is replaceable. (However, if the seat simply
has a round hole through its center and no slots, it is not
replaceable. In this case, reface it with a seat-dressing tool.) To
replace it, you'll need a faucet seat wrench, which comes with a
combination of square and hex heads to fit most faucet seats. Turn the
washer seat counterclockwise to loosen, clockwise to tighten. Add a
little silicone rubber sealant (RTV) or pipe joint compound around the
threads of the seat before you install it to make it easier to remove
during future repairs.
Reface Washer Seat: A seat-dressing tool is not costly and every
home with washer-type faucets needs one. Use the tool according to the
manufacturer's directions, placing it in the faucet along with the
packing nut. Then rotate until the seat is smooth, and blow out the
chips.
Step 6. Put Back Together:
Following this seat and washer service, your faucet should be like
new. Put the parts back together in the reverse order of taking them
apart. Spread a bit of petroleum jelly or silicone grease on the
threads of the stem to lubricate the faucet's action.
Step 7. If Faucet Leaks Around the Stem:
If your faucet is leaking around the stem rather than from the spigot,
install new packing. You may want to install one of the newer
nylon-covered or graphite-impregnated packings - their lubrication
allows the faucet handle to turn more freely. Wrap one turn of this
packing around the stem just beneath the packing nut. Use three
complete wraps if you're applying string-type packing. Some stems use
O-rings, rather than packing. For these stems, replace the O-ring with
a matching one to stop a leak. Hand tighten the packing nut, then
tighten it another half-turn.
Tools and Materials:
·
Smooth-jaw adjustable wrench
·
Screwdrivers, standard and Phillips
·
Pliers
·
Faucet
washers
·
Brass
screws
·
Stem
·
Silicone grease or petroleum jelly
·
Seat
dressing tool or Seat & Seat wrench
·
Silicone rubber sealant or pipe compound
·
Socket
wrench
·
Packing
·
Cleaning cloths
·
Hand
cleaner
Filtering Faucets Offer Convenience and Clean Water
By: Paul
Bianchina
Many people are
concerned about what's in the water they drink, but until recently,
there have only been two options: bottled water or bulky home
filtration systems. Within the last couple of years, however, at least
two of the major faucet manufacturers -- Moen and Price Pfister --
have combined in-home filtration with the convenience of a standard
kitchen faucet.
Know as
"filtering faucets," both of these units are attractive, easy-to-use
faucets that are designed to replace almost any standard sink-mounted
kitchen faucet. The faucets from both manufacturers -- Moen's "Pure
Touch" and Price Pfister's "Pfilter Faucets" -- are top-quality
single-handle units with a pull-out faucet head and are available in
chrome and white. The Moen faucet is also available in almond.
Both units
operate in essentially the same manner. When you turn on the tap,
unfiltered water flows through the faucet head at a full-pressure flow
as with any conventional faucet. This allows for dishwashing,
cleaning, and other normal faucet operations at full flow and does not
use up any of the filtering capacity. There is also a button that
switches the standard water stream to a spray, also unfiltered.
At the touch of
the button located on the faucet head, the unit switches into
filtering mode. Water is diverted through the filter and comes out the
faucet head fully filtered and ready to drink. The faucet heads are
designed with two separate water channels in them, so the flows of
filtered and unfiltered water never mix. As you would expect since the
water is being diverted through a filtering mechanism, the flow rate
is considerably reduced from the unfiltered flow.
Both faucets
contain a replaceable filter cartridge that's conveniently located
right in the faucet head and can be changed without any tools. Simply
unlock the filter compartment, slide out the used filter cartridge,
and replace it with a new one. Both faucet models have filter
cartridges that will filter about 200 gallons of water -- about a
three-month supply of filtered water for the average family.Moen's Pure
Touch units are more expensive than the Price Pfister models, in the
$400 range as opposed to around $200. For the additional money, Moen
gives you a few more features as well as some additional filtering
options.
With the Moen
unit, you have a choice of three filters, all of which are
manufactured by Culligan. The MicroTech 5000 filter reduces chlorine
to improve taste and odor as well as lead and two potentially harmful
water-borne microorganisms: Cryptosporidium and Giardia. The MicroTech
3000 filter reduces chlorine for taste and odor as well as lead. The
2000 model filter is for chlorine only. All of the cartridges run
around $25. Another nice feature of the Moen PureTouch is a
battery-powered alarm in the faucet head which signals you when the
filter has reached capacity and needs to be changed, and also tells
you if you've reinstalled the new cartridge correctly.
Price Pfister's
Pfilter Pfaucet is designed for taste and odor, filtering out about
95% of the chlorine. Their replacement filter cartridges, which use a
ceramic-disk valve, cost around $10.Both of these
filtering faucets are available at most plumbing supply retailers as
well as some of the larger home centers and discount outlets -- either
in stock or by special order. The cartridges for both are typically
available wherever you buy the faucet. Both will fit the 8"-on-center
holes found in just about any kitchen sink.
Either faucet can be
installed with standard tools, although you may need a basin wrench to
reach up to the nuts that hold the faucet to the underside of the
sink. Basin wrenches can be purchased wherever you buy the faucet, or
if you only need it once, they can be rented as well. If you are
purchasing the faucet for the removal of specific microorganisms for
health reasons, be sure and read all of the manufacturer's filtering
specifications carefully and discuss them with your doctor.
Copyright
2001-2002 Inman News Features. Distributed by Inman News Features
Below
the tank that holds the assembly in place, then lift the entire ball
cock assembly out of the tank and discard it. If you have trouble
removing the nut, soak it in oil for ten minutes or so -- don't force
it, or you run the risk of cracking the porcelain of the tank.Installing the new ball cock or float cup assembly is the reverse
of the removal process. Install the new rubber washer under the bottom
of the assembly, and pass the lower threaded portion through the
bottom of the tank. Install the lower washers, secure the assembly
with a new nut, and reinstall the water line. All of the necessary
washers, nuts and other parts are supplied with the new unit, so don't
reuse any of the old stuff. Complete installation instructions are
included.
Turn the water back on, and let the tank fill. Following the
instructions supplied with the unit, adjust the assembly to achieve
the proper water level inside the tank. For a ball assembly, this is
done by moving the float ball in or out on the float arm, and also
moving the adjusting screw located where the float arm meets the valve
assembly. To adjust a float cup assembly, squeeze the retaining clip
on the cup and move the cup up or down to the proper level. Finally,
flush the tank a couple of times to check for smooth -- and now quiet
-- operation.
Copyright 2001-2002 Inman News Features. Distributed by Inman News
Features
Opening a Clogged Toilet
Step 1: A regular suction cup plunger will seldom do the job (B). A force
ball-type plunger exerts a great deal more pressure for cleaning
toilets than the regular type.
Be sure to have sufficient water in the toilet bowl when using the
plunger.
Step 2: If the plunger does not clear the clogged drain, use a closet
auger (Fig. 10). Start the auger or snake into the bowl and continue
to crank it until it becomes tight. This cranking and pulling action
will usually bring up the object that is causing the stoppage.
Step 3: If the closet auger is not effective, use a small snake
in the same way as described for opening lavatory drains.
Step 4: If neither the plunger, the closet auger, nor the snake
removes the obstruction, you may need to remove the toilet from the
floor, turn it upside down, and force the obstruction out from the top
or bottom.
Step 5: If you must remove the toilet from the floor, use
either a wax preformed O-ring or fresh plumber's putty in reseating
the toilet.
Courtesy
of National Retail Hardware Association
Plunging Without a Plunger
A quick, clean and easy way to unclog a toilet
Tools:
A nearby waste basket or water bucket
Tips:
An alternative to using a plunger to clear a clogged toilet when
the water level in the bowl is low is to use hydrostatic pressure.
To accomplish this, fill a bucket or plastic wastebasket with water (I
usually use warm water) and pour it into the clogged toilet from waist
level or above . This is usually enough force to clear the
clog. Sometimes it's necessary to repeat the process. There's no
clean-up required, other than splash-back, and the tools are usually
handy.
This helpful
article was provided by DoItYourself.com community member Chuck Cook.
If you are interested in sharing your do-it-yourself knowledge and
know-how with the DoItYourself.com's community,
How to Remove and
Replace a Toilet
Step 1 Turn the water off at the supply lines. Flush the toilet several
times to remove water from the bowl and tank. Use a sponge to remove
any remaining water from the tank and the bowl.
Step 2
. Remove the wing nuts that attach the tank to the bowl. If they
are corroded, use penetrating oil to help loosen them.
Step 3 . Disconnect the water supply lines. Now the tank is ready to
remove from the bowl.
Step 4
. Remove the caps at the base of the toilet. These may be severely
corroded and require penetrating oil. If the corrosion is severe you
may have to grind or cut off the nuts. Use a utility knife to cut the
caulk at the base of the bowl for easy removal.
Step 5
. Lift off the bowl. The seal is now visible. Be careful to get the
right wax seal. Some wax seals come with extensions for floors that
have been built up. Some wax seals can be joined back to back to
create a double height seal as well. If there is any question about
the seal you need, take the old seal with you and the name of the
toilet MANUFACTURER so a perfect match can be made.
Step 6 . Make sure the seal is room temperature or warmer before
refitting the bowl. Lift the bowl back over the nuts into position.
Rotate the bowl back and forth several times to seat the seal. Line
the bowl up with the wall and check to make sure the bowl is level.
Step 7 . Replace the nuts at the bottom of the bowl and fill the caps
with plumbers putty to keep water out.
Step 8 . Put the tank on the bowl. Check the spud washer for any damage.
If damaged replace it now.
Step 9
. Tighten up the wing nuts and reconnect the water supply lines.
Turn the water on and flush the toilet several times to check for any
leaks.
Step 10
. Re-caulk the base of the bowl to create a water proof seal which
protects the floor and provides additional stability.
Replacing the Toilet
Tank Parts
The parts inside a toilet tank are used several times each day and
are constantly submerged in water. This causes a lot of wear and tear
on these parts, but the good news is, they are very easy to replace.
There are three main parts in the tank:
·
Handle
·
Flush
valve
·
Ballcock
Replace the Handle
The handles need to be changed every once in a while because they
crack or break. Also, if you are redecorating you might want to get a
brass handle to go with a brass faucet.
Tools and Materials:
·
Adjustable wrench
·
Handle
with hand lever
Step 1: Remove Handle: Detach the old handle by turning the mounting
nut clockwise (the nut has reversed threads)
Step 2: Attach New Handle: Place the new handle through the handle hole
on the tank. Inside the tank attach the new handle lever, or reuse the
old one, to the handle. Tighten the mounting nut using the wrench by
going counterclockwise.
Replace Flush Valve
Tools and Materials:
·
Sponges
·
Flat
head screwdriver
·
Adjustable wrench
·
Spud
wrench or channel-type pliers
·
Flush
valve
·
Rubber
flapper
·
Lift
chain
Step 1: Empty Tank:
Shut off the water by turning the angle stop,
the knob on the bottom left of the toilet. Flush the toilet to get rid
of the water in the tank. Mop the remaining water with the sponge.
Step 2: Remove Supply Tube: Disconnect the supply tube from the tank using
the wrench. This is the tube that runs from the tank to the angle
stop.
Step 3: Remove Tank: Unbolt the tank from the bowl. It might be
stuck on well, so grab the bolt with the wrench and use the
screwdriver to unscrew the bolt. Lift the tank off the bowl and turn
it over.
Step 4: Take Out Old Flush Valve:
Take
the spud washer off the pipe that sticks out of the bottom of the
tank. Use the spud wrench or channel-type pliers and unscrew the spud
nut. Remove the flush valve.
Step 5: Replace Old Flush Valve:
Put the
cone washer over the tailpiece so that the beveled edge of the washer
faces up toward the pipe. Turn the tank right side up. Put the flush
valve into the hole in the tank so that the little tailpiece sticks
out the bottom. Position the valve so that the overflow pipe is next
to the ballcock.
Step 6: Install Spud Nut:
Turn the tank over and use the spud wrench or
channel-type pliers to tighten the spud nut onto the tailpiece. Put
the spud washer over the spud nut. Turn the tank right side up.
Step 7: Reattach Tank: Place the tank onto the bowl making sure that
the spud washer goes through the hole in the bowl. Bolt the tank to
the bowl using the wrench and the screwdriver.
·
Caution:
Don't
over tighten the bolts or it can break the porcelain. The bolts should
just be snug.
Step 8: Put In Flapper:
Attach the flapper to the overflow pipe inside
the bowl. There are little lugs that it attaches to. Attach the lever
chain from the flapper to the handle lever. The chain should be taut.
Step 9: Attach Supply Tube:
If there are no more repairs, reattach
the supply tube to the tank and turn the water on.
Replace Float-Cup
Ballcock
The ballcock comes in different types. A newer style, to replace
the old float-arm ball type, is the float-cup ballcock. This is
recommended because it is more water efficient and is made of plastic,
which wears better. The float ball-arm is made of brass which can
warp, affecting the water level. The following instructions use the
float cup ballcock because it is new and better.
Tools and Materials:
·
Sponges
·
Adjustable wrench
·
Ballcock
Step 1: Empty Tank: Shut off the water by turning the angle stop,
the knob to the bottom left of the toilet. Flush the toilet to get rid
of the water in the tank. Mop the remaining water with the sponge.
Step 2: Undo Supply Tube and Remove Ballcock:
Disconnect the supply tube from the tank using the wrench. The supply
tube is the tube that runs from the angle stop to the tank. Take off
the mounting nut and remove the ballcock.
Step 3: Install New Ballcock: Place the new ballcock through the hole
in the tank. Adjust it so that the lid fits on the toilet. Bend the
refill tube so the tip fits into the overflow tube on the flush valve.
Step 4: Reattach Supply Tube:
Attach the coupling nut on the underside
of the tank. If you have no more repairs, attach the supply tube to
the tank.
Step 5: Open Angle Stop: Turn the water back on at the angle stop.
Step 6: Correct Water Level: Adjust the water so that it is 1/2 inch
below the top of the overflow tube. You adjust the ballcock by
pinching the spring clip. This moves the float cup up and down. Move
the float cup up to raise the water level and move the cup down to
lower the water.
Written
by Roy Barnhart, home improvement expert, Fairfield, CT.
Replacing Your Toilet
The toilet is often looked at as a set feature of your bathroom.
But it isn't. You'll want to replace the toilet when remodeling your
bathroom so it matches your new decor. Or you may want to get one
that's more efficient.
There are two main versions that look similar but have some
different operations. However both meet the federal law that states
that new toilets can only use 1.6 gallons of water per flush.
·
Gravity-Operated Toilet: Most commonly used today, it carefully
regulates the inflow of water. Gravity-operated toilets are best used
in houses that have low water pressure.
·
Pressure-Tank Toilet: Named so because it pressurizes the water when
it is filling and rapidly releases the pressure when flushed. This
causes the water to be forcefully pushed from the toilet. One possible
drawback is that when it flushes it makes a loud noise. However, this
is a good toilet when the sewer is far away (such as in the country)
or it often clogs. The increased pressure helps break up any debris in
the pipe.
Prices range from the blue collar toilet to the royal throne. You
just need to choose the model type, color and shape that you want.
Measure first: Before you buy, make sure the toilet will fit.
Measure the distance from the wall to the pipe that is in the floor.
Measure from the wall (not the baseboard) to the center of the bolt
that holds the toilet to the floor. Measure to the closest bolt if
there are two. The customary distance is 12 inches but it could be
more, or less.
Tools and Materials You Need:
·
Sponges
and rags
·
Plunger
·
8-inch
adjustable wrench
·
8-inch
flat head screwdriver
·
Hacksaw
·
Pan
·
Putty
knife
·
Wax or
rubber closet seal
·
Toilet
·
Parts
for inside the tank: ballcock, flush valve, handle, handle lever,
rubber flapper, chain for flapper (you need to buy these but some
parts might come as a kit so you might not have to buy them all
individually)
·
Brass
closet and tank bolts (some toilets come with these but they might be
plated steel, you want brass)
·
Level
·
Spud
wrench or 10-inch channel-type pliers
·
Flexible supply tube (if old one won't reach new tank)
·
Tubing
bender (need if using new supply tube)
·
Tubing
cutter (need if using new supply tube)
·
Brass
compression fittings
·
Pipe
joint compound
·
Adjustable wrench
Tip:
There are different types of ballcocks that you can get. The most
durable and water efficient is the float cup ballcock. This ballcock
regulates the water better and it is made from plastic which protects
it from rust and warping. Avoid the ballcock made from brass, which
can bend and warp.
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