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In depth information on do it yourself home property maintenance, covering all aspects of residential home, commercial, business, and apartment building repair, remodeling, and renovation projects Featuring tips, advice, how-to and step-by-step information to help you maintain and improve the value of your business building and home.

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Your Toilet's Running

It may seem a minor thing, but toilets that don't stop running can waste hundreds of gallons of water a year. Even if your toilet's not making any noise, you may have a silent leak that you can test for by putting a dozen drops of colored food dye into your tank, then wait a half hour and see if any of the color leaked into the bowl.

If so, take a thick pencil, mark the tank's water level and turn off the toilet's incoming water valve. Wait another half hour, then check the tank. If the water's dropped, then you have a leak at the seal between the tank and the bowl; check for a worn-out tank ball or a cracked seal and replace it right away.

Replacing a Toilet

IMPORTANT: Read this before you start


You may want to replace the toilet in your bathroom for a number of reasons. Perhaps you have a cracked toilet, an antiquated model or one that uses a significant amount of water. There are a number of new models which will match the décor of your home and reduce the amount of water required per flush. Also, new toilets come in a variety of shapes that are more comfortable. Replacing a toilet is not as difficult as it may seem. The toughest part is dealing with its weight. The shape of the toilet makes it difficult to maneuver in what is usually a tight space. A few tools and a little bit of muscle this project will be wrapped up before lunch.

Before you start...

Skill Level & Time to complete

Beginner - 5 to 6 hours

Intermediate - 4 to 5 hours

Advanced - 3 to 4 hours


Caution! Be sure water supply to the unit is off.


Caution!  Inspect for the water damage to the sub floor before installing the new unit.


Common Mistake: Do not attempt to tighten the toilet base flush to the floor. Due to the installation of the new wax ring it is common for there to be gap between the base and the floor around an eight of an inch, which you can caulk.   

Helpful Tips: Because toilet manufacturers vary, always install hardware supplied with the new unit.

Helpful Tips:  Use a second person to help install the base

Learning Steps

1. Shut off the water supply to the toilet and flush the toilet holding the handle down to empty the tank of the remaining water. If there is any water left in the tank use a sponge to wipe it dry

2. Disconnect the water supply line to the tank by reaching into the tank and unthreading the connector.

3. To remove the tank from the bowl, loosen the bolts on the inside of the tank with a screwdriver while holding the nut on the outside of the tank with pliers. Set the tank aside and then remove any water that is left in the bowl with a sponge.

4. Remove the bolts that are located at the base of the toilet. There are times when these bolts may be difficult to remove. If there is any old plumbers putty around the bolt use a scraper to remove it or apply some penetrating oil to release the bolts if they are corroded. If neither of these methods works, your only option is to use a hacksaw and cut the bolts off.

5. Now rock the toilet back and forth to break the seal between the toilet and the piping. Carefully remove the toilet and set it aside. With rubber gloves on, stuff a large rag into the drainpipe to keep the sewer gases from escaping and polluting your bathroom air. Unscrew and remove the flange around the drain pipe and with the plastic scraper remove any old plumbers putty around the floor so that the new toilet makes a tight seal.

6. Turn the new toilet bowl on its side or upside down on a towel or soft cloth to prevent damage to the bowl. Run a bead of plumbers putty around the base of the toilet bowl, which will make a watertight seal with the piping that runs to the sewer.

7. Place wax gasket on the base horn pressing hard enough to make it stick in place.

8. Use plumbers putty around the base of the bolts to hold them in place and fit the flange over the top of the bolts. Screw the new flange into the drainpipe & floor.

9. Now turn the toilet upright and lower it into position so that the bolts align into the base. Be sure that you remember to remove the rags from the drainpipe!

10.  Level the bowl using a level. You can place shims into position if the toilet is not level.

11.  Slip a metal washer over each bolt and tighten the nuts to secure the toilet. Alternately tighten the bolts very slowly or the bowl will crack.

12.  Now you will need to install the tank on top of the toilet. Place the spud washer over the inlet opening. Lower the tank over the bowl lining up with the holes. Bolt the tank to the bowl; again tighten slowly so the tank does not crack.

13.  Using Teflon tape around the threads when connecting the water supply line. Turn the water supply back on and allow the tank to fill. Flush the toilet a few times and check for leaks and finally attach the toilet seat.

Shopping List

Materials Needed

Toilet (necessary hardware should be included)

·    Plumber's putty

·    Silicone caulk

·    Flexible braided steel supply line (if it is not included with the toilet)

·    Rubber gloves (useful when replacing an old toilet

·    Rags (place in floor drain to block sewer gases

·    Teflon Tape (small roll)


Tools Needed


·    Adjustable Wrench (crescent style)

·    Screwdriver (Large)

·    Plastic Scraper

·    Penetrating Oil (useful for softening corrosive metals)

·    Hacksaw

·    Tools Needed

·    Adjustable Wrench (crescent style)

·    Screwdriver (Large)

·    Plastic Scraper

·    Penetrating Oil (useful for softening corrosive metals)

·    Hacksaw

Copyright© 2000, Inc. All rights reserved.

Adjust a Poorly Flushing Toilet

Due to recent water conservation requirements, all toilets made for use in the United States can consume no more than 1.6 gallons per flush. Older toilets, made prior to the 1994 law, use as much as 3.5 to 5 gallons per flush. While numerous consumer surveys prove that the great majority of 1.6-gallon-per-flush toilets work very well (as well as save hundreds of millions of gallons of fresh water per day), many people find themselves needing to flush twice because of a poorly flushing toilet. Here are steps that can be taken to improve the flush performance should you desire it.

Tools and Materials

·     Screwdriver

·     Drain auger

·     Hacksaw

·     Nail or copper wire

1. Adjust Water Level: Lift off tank cover. If the water level is not in line with the waterline mark (usually found on the tank or overflow tube), adjust the water level. For most plunger or diaphragm-type fill valves that have a float ball on the end of a brass float arm, bend the arm downward a little to lower the water level; bend upward to raise it. Use both hands when bending the brass float arm so as not to apply stress to either the valve or the float ball.

This could cause these parts to break. Never attempt to bend plastic float arms. Some models have a water level (and fill rate) adjustment screw on the top. If so, turn the adjustment screw in the top of the valve counterclockwise to increase the amount of water in the tank, and clockwise to decrease it. For a float-cup, pinch the spring clip to raise or lower the float as needed. For floatless models, turn the adjustment screw counterclockwise about one-half turn at a time.

·    Tip: If a replacement flush valve has been installed or is being installed, cut the overflow tube with a hacksaw, if necessary, to assure that the water level in the tank, when at the proper height, is no lower than 1/2 inch below the top of the overflow tube.

If a replacement ballcock has been installed or is being installed, make sure that the water level in the tank, when at the proper height, is no less than 1/2 inch below the top of the overflow tube on the flush valve.

A bowl that does not fully empty during a flush does not indicate a problem. Some low-consumption toilets typically don't evacuate the bowl as was typical of old-technology models.

2. Open Shut-off Valve: Fully open the water supply shut-off valve to assure that there is adequate water pressure and volume.

·    Tip: People may partially close a valve to quiet a toilet that is noisy when its fills. More often the cause of a noisy fill is an obstruction in the fill valve or worn fill valve washers. Turn off the water supply to open the top of the fill valve to inspect/replace washers. Before reassembly, place a plastic cup over the open fill valve and turn on the water slightly for a few seconds to flush the line.

3. Clear Obstructions: An obstruction in the trapway, which is the curved passageway extending from the opening in the bowl to the waste pipe opening at the floor, is obvious when it causes a clog and/or an overflow. A smaller obstruction, which might include any number of foreign objects that have no business being in a toilet, can cause sluggish flushing, leave a dirty bowl, and cause frequent clogging. Push a drain auger into the opening in the bowl until you feel an obstruction, turn the handle clockwise to "screw" the head of the auger into the obstruction, and keep turning as you draw the obstruction back into the bowl.

·    Tip: A plunger is fine for clogs caused by excessive waste and tissue, but if you use one for other obstructions there is an added risk that you might simply move the object out of reach.

4. Clear Clogged Bowl Rim Holes: During a flush, inspect the holes on the underside of the bowl rim using a mirror. Any mineral build-up in the holes reduces or cuts off the volume of water that flows down the sides of a bowl to clean them during a flush. Clear clogs by inserting a 6d nail or a piece of 10- or 12-gauge copper wire into each hole and twisting and rotating it as needed to scrape the wall of the hole.

5. Call for Help: If after taking the above steps the sluggish performance persists, you may have an obstruction in the vent pipe that exits through your roof or somewhere in the soil stack. Seek professional assistance from a licensed drain-cleaning service or plumber. Also, for new toilets, call the manufacturer (most have 800 consumer hotlines) and seek their advice to improve flushing action.

Written by Casey Nevelson, home improvement expert. Art courtesy of American

Below-Grade Toilet Options and Installation Tips
By: Paul Bianchina

When installing a toilet, the most basic premise for the operation of the sewer system is that drain lines need to slope from the toilet down to the sewer or septic tank. Sounds simple enough -- until you’re faced with adding a toilet in a basement or other location that’s already below the level of the main sewer line. If such an installation is in any of your future remodeling plans, there are a couple of different strategies to consider.

Establishing Grade

The first choice for the below-grade installation of a toilet is to see if it’s possible to establish the necessary slope from toilet to sewer. This may seem impossible at first glace, but many sewer lines are actually quite deep, and with proper excavating you may be able to establish the necessary quarter-inch per foot of slope that’s required for good drainage.

First, you need to locate the main sewer or septic line and determine its depth. This may require a trip to your local city or county public works department to check on sewer locations and approximate depths for your home, or, in the case of a septic system, a consultation with your local building department. If the records are not available, you may need to talk with an excavator who’s familiar with the area, and perhaps dig a test hole to locate the line.

Once you have the depth of the sewer line, you’ll next need to determine the exact level of the proposed toilet installation, then compare one to the other. This will require the use of a transit or laser level, which can be rented, or a consultation with a plumber, contractor, or excavator. If the level of the sewer line is sufficiently below the level of the toilet, you can simply install a 3-inch drain line from toilet to sewer in the normal manner.

Sewage Ejector Toilets

If it’s impossible to get the necessary natural grade for a standard gravity flow toilet, another possibility is a specialized fixture called a sewage ejector toilet, which is designed for below-grade installation.

The typical sewage ejector toilet consists of a pedestal made of polyethylene, which acts as a base for mounting the toilet. The pedestal, which is about five to six inches high, can sit directly on the floor or can be recessed so that the toilet itself ends up level with the floor. Inside the unit is a set of impellors and a sewage ejector pump, which processes the waste and pushes it up to discharge into the main sewer line.

Some models of sewage ejector toilets are designed with the pump and related vent and discharge lines located far enough behind the toilet that it’s possible to construct a wall between the toilet and the pump equipment. This allows for a cleaner installation, and makes the pipes and equipment much less obtrusive.

Composting Toilets

Another below-grade option is the composting toilet, which eliminates the need for a discharge pump and gives a boost to the environment as well. The toilet, which is a fully self-contained unit, requires no water inlet, no connection to a sewer, and no chemicals, but does require an electrical connection and a vent to the outside.

Composting toilets work similar to a septic tank. Approximately 90 percent of the waste material entering a toilet is actually water, so the composting toilet utilizes a small electric heating grid and fan inside the unit to evaporate the liquids through the vent pipe. The remaining 10 percent of the waste material breaks down through normal bacterial action, and is converted naturally into a soil-type residue. This residue filters down through a grid into a collection tray located in the bottom of the toilet. In normal use, the tray only requires emptying about once a year.

Composting toilets are not only good for below-grade applications, but also work great in cabins, shops, warehouses, and other locations where the installation of the waste and water lines necessary for a standard toilet is impractical.

Sewage ejector and composting toilets are typically available by special order through plumbing fixture retailers, or through your plumber.

Copyright 2002 Inman News Features. Distributed by Inman News Features

How to Repair a Running Toilet

A running toilet can be a simple thing to fix, and water savings add up quickly.

Step 1 . First check the guide rod or chain on the tank stopper. If the rod is bent or the chain links are twisted just straighten them .

Step 2 . Next check the float mechanism. If lifting the ball up stops the water from running, try to bend the float arm down to get the right buoyancy. If you notice that the ball has water in it, it needs to be replaced. Replace it by unscrewing it from the arm and putting a new one in its place.

Step 3 . If the toilet is still running the valve seat and stop per may have corrosion or build up preventing the stopper from closing. Lift the stopper up and check for any objects. Gently scour the seat and the rim. If there is a great deal of damage replace the stopper and valve seat.

Step 4 . The flush valve assembly may have to be replaced if the toilet is still running. Take the old parts with you when purchasing new inside gaskets and assemble to ensure a perfect match. If the shaft of the assembly is cracked, the whole shaft and assembly will need to be replaced. Again take the flush valve assembly with you to get a perfect match.

How To Unclog a Toilet

Be careful when unplugging a toilet with sewer snakes. They may nick and ding the bowl of your toilet. Toilet snakes are made with rubber padding for this type of job.

Step 1 . Try a plumbers helper (plunger) if drain cleaner has not removed the clog. A plumbers helper is positioned over the hole at the bottom of the bowl and pushed up and down several times to burp the clog through. If you have not positioned the rubber on the helper right some water may splash on the surrounding area.

The proper way to use a plunger is:

1. Make sure there is only enough water to cover the plunger cup.

2. Use petroleum jelly on the rim of the cup for a tight fit.

3. Insert the plunger at an angle so no air is trapped under the cup.

4. 1 to 20 forceful strokes, holding the plunger upright and pumping vigorously.

5. Repeat several times to burp the entire clog through.

Step 2 . If it is a major clog a toilet snake or closet auger with a padded end is best to use. Place the padded end in the toilet bowl. Work it in the hole and push the handle down and turn it to push the clog through.

New Parts Quick Fix Noisy Toilet
By: Paul Bianchina

Do you have one of those toilets that seems to enjoy the sound of its own voice? Flush it once and it gurgles on forever, or, even more annoying and much more potentially harmful, it drips around the supply line? There's no need to discard the toilet and invest in a new one -- the answer is a simple repair inside the toilet tank that's a pretty easy do-it-yourself project.

All residential flush toilets operate in pretty much the same way. When the flush handle is pushed, a flapper that covers and seals a hole in the bottom of the upper tank opens, releasing its store of water into the bowl below. Water pressure temporarily holds the flapper in the open position -- when the water has all drained into the bowl, the flapper drops automatically and seals the hole.

A float mechanism also drops as the water is released, opening a valve in the tank to allow fresh water to enter and refill the tank. When the float rises to a preset limit it shuts off the incoming water, and the flushing cycle is complete and ready for another sequence.

With only a couple of moving parts that can go awry, just about any problem you have in the flushing of a toilet can be traced to this valve and float assembly, called a ball cock assembly. And while you can disassemble the mechanism and make repairs, it's an easier and more effective long-term solution to simply replace the entire assembly.

You can use a ball cock assembly that is the same as what's in the toilet now, which in most toilets is a hollow float ball attached to the end of a long float arm, or you might wish to use one of the newer float cup assemblies, which uses an open plastic cup directly on the valve assembly (there's no long metal float arm, so the mechanism is a little easier to install and adjust). Both types of assemblies are available at home centers, hardware stores, plumbing supply stores and a variety of other retail outlets.


First, shut the water to the toilet, using the stop valve that comes out of the wall or the floor below the left side of the tank. If this valve is defective and won't shut the water flow to the toilet completely, use the home's main shutoff valve to shut the water to the entire house. While the house water is off, replace the bad toilet stop valve as well. Flush the toilet to empty the water in the tank, then use a cup and some towels to remove any remaining water and dry the inside of the tank (the tank contains only fresh water).

Inside the tank, first remove the float arm and ball. Using a pair of adjustable pliers, hold the bottom of the ball cock assembly just above where it exits through the bottom of the tank -- a pair of locking pliers makes this even easier, and frees up both your hands. Then, use an adjustable wrench and remove the water line where it attaches to the ball cock. With the wrench or the pliers, loosen and remove the nut below the tank that holds the assembly in place, then lift the entire ball cock assembly out of the tank and discard it. If you have trouble removing the nut, soak it in oil for ten minutes or so -- don't force it, or you run the risk of cracking the porcelain of the tank.

Installing the new ball cock or float cup assembly is the reverse of the removal process. Install the new rubber washer under the bottom of the assembly, and pass the lower threaded portion through the bottom of the tank. Install the lower washers, secure the assembly with a new nut, and reinstall the water line. All of the necessary washers, nuts and other parts are supplied with the new unit, so don't reuse any of the old stuff. Complete installation instructions are included.

Turn the water back on, and let the tank fill. Following the instructions supplied with the unit, adjust the assembly to achieve the proper water level inside the tank. For a ball assembly, this is done by moving the float ball in or out on the float arm, and also moving the adjusting screw located where the float arm meets the valve assembly. To adjust a float cup assembly, squeeze the retaining clip on the cup and move the cup up or down to the proper level. Finally, flush the tank a couple of times to check for smooth -- and now quiet -- operation.

Copyright 2001-2002 Inman News Features. Distributed by Inman News Features

Opening a Clogged Toilet

Step 1:  A regular suction cup plunger will seldom do the job (B). A force ball-type plunger exerts a great deal more pressure for cleaning toilets than the regular type.
Be sure to have sufficient water in the toilet bowl when using the plunger.

Step 2: If the plunger does not clear the clogged drain, use a closet auger (Fig. 10). Start the auger or snake into the bowl and continue to crank it until it becomes tight. This cranking and pulling action will usually bring up the object that is causing the stoppage.
Step 3: If the closet auger is not effective, use a small snake in the same way as described for opening lavatory drains.

Step 4: If neither the plunger, the closet auger, nor the snake removes the obstruction, you may need to remove the toilet from the floor, turn it upside down, and force the obstruction out from the top or bottom.

Step 5: If you must remove the toilet from the floor, use either a wax preformed O-ring or fresh plumber's putty in reseating the toilet.

Courtesy of National Retail Hardware Association

Plunging Without a Plunger

A quick, clean and easy way to unclog a toilet

Tools: A nearby waste basket or water bucket

Tips: An alternative to using a plunger to clear a clogged toilet when the water level in the bowl is low is to use hydrostatic pressure. To accomplish this, fill a bucket or plastic wastebasket with water (I usually use warm water) and pour it into the clogged toilet from waist level or above . This is usually enough force to clear the clog. Sometimes it's necessary to repeat the process. There's no clean-up required, other than splash-back, and the tools are usually handy.

This helpful article was provided by community member Chuck Cook. If you are interested in sharing your do-it-yourself knowledge and know-how with the's community, 

How to Remove and Replace a Toilet

Step 1 Turn the water off at the supply lines. Flush the toilet several times to remove water from the bowl and tank. Use a sponge to remove any remaining water from the tank and the bowl.

Step 2 . Remove the wing nuts that attach the tank to the bowl. If they are corroded, use penetrating oil to help loosen them.

Step 3 . Disconnect the water supply lines. Now the tank is ready to remove from the bowl.

Step 4 . Remove the caps at the base of the toilet. These may be severely corroded and require penetrating oil. If the corrosion is severe you may have to grind or cut off the nuts. Use a utility knife to cut the caulk at the base of the bowl for easy removal.

Step 5 . Lift off the bowl. The seal is now visible. Be careful to get the right wax seal. Some wax seals come with extensions for floors that have been built up. Some wax seals can be joined back to back to create a double height seal as well. If there is any question about the seal you need, take the old seal with you and the name of the toilet MANUFACTURER so a perfect match can be made.

Step 6 . Make sure the seal is room temperature or warmer before refitting the bowl. Lift the bowl back over the nuts into position. Rotate the bowl back and forth several times to seat the seal. Line the bowl up with the wall and check to make sure the bowl is level.

Step 7 . Replace the nuts at the bottom of the bowl and fill the caps with plumbers putty to keep water out.

Step 8 . Put the tank on the bowl. Check the spud washer for any damage. If damaged replace it now.

Step 9 . Tighten up the wing nuts and reconnect the water supply lines. Turn the water on and flush the toilet several times to check for any leaks.

Step 10 . Re-caulk the base of the bowl to create a water proof seal which protects the floor and provides additional stability.

Replacing the Toilet Tank Parts

The parts inside a toilet tank are used several times each day and are constantly submerged in water. This causes a lot of wear and tear on these parts, but the good news is, they are very easy to replace. There are three main parts in the tank:

·    Handle

·    Flush valve

·    Ballcock

Replace the Handle

The handles need to be changed every once in a while because they crack or break. Also, if you are redecorating you might want to get a brass handle to go with a brass faucet.

Tools and Materials:

·    Adjustable wrench

·    Handle with hand lever

Step 1: Remove Handle: Detach the old handle by turning the mounting nut clockwise (the nut has reversed threads)

Step 2: Attach New Handle: Place the new handle through the handle hole on the tank. Inside the tank attach the new handle lever, or reuse the old one, to the handle. Tighten the mounting nut using the wrench by going counterclockwise.

Replace Flush Valve

Tools and Materials:

·    Sponges

·    Flat head screwdriver

·    Adjustable wrench

·    Spud wrench or channel-type pliers

·    Flush valve

·    Rubber flapper

·    Lift chain

Step 1: Empty Tank: Shut off the water by turning the angle stop, the knob on the bottom left of the toilet. Flush the toilet to get rid of the water in the tank. Mop the remaining water with the sponge.

Step 2: Remove Supply Tube: Disconnect the supply tube from the tank using the wrench. This is the tube that runs from the tank to the angle stop.

Step 3: Remove Tank: Unbolt the tank from the bowl. It might be stuck on well, so grab the bolt with the wrench and use the screwdriver to unscrew the bolt. Lift the tank off the bowl and turn it over.

Step 4: Take Out Old Flush Valve: Take the spud washer off the pipe that sticks out of the bottom of the tank. Use the spud wrench or channel-type pliers and unscrew the spud nut. Remove the flush valve.

Step 5: Replace Old Flush Valve: Put the cone washer over the tailpiece so that the beveled edge of the washer faces up toward the pipe. Turn the tank right side up. Put the flush valve into the hole in the tank so that the little tailpiece sticks out the bottom. Position the valve so that the overflow pipe is next to the ballcock.

Step 6: Install Spud Nut: Turn the tank over and use the spud wrench or channel-type pliers to tighten the spud nut onto the tailpiece. Put the spud washer over the spud nut. Turn the tank right side up.

Step 7: Reattach Tank: Place the tank onto the bowl making sure that the spud washer goes through the hole in the bowl. Bolt the tank to the bowl using the wrench and the screwdriver.

·    Caution: Don't over tighten the bolts or it can break the porcelain. The bolts should just be snug.

Step 8: Put In Flapper: Attach the flapper to the overflow pipe inside the bowl. There are little lugs that it attaches to. Attach the lever chain from the flapper to the handle lever. The chain should be taut.

Step 9: Attach Supply Tube: If there are no more repairs, reattach the supply tube to the tank and turn the water on.

Replace Float-Cup Ballcock

The ballcock comes in different types. A newer style, to replace the old float-arm ball type, is the float-cup ballcock. This is recommended because it is more water efficient and is made of plastic, which wears better. The float ball-arm is made of brass which can warp, affecting the water level. The following instructions use the float cup ballcock because it is new and better.

Tools and Materials:

·    Sponges

·    Adjustable wrench

·    Ballcock

Step 1: Empty Tank: Shut off the water by turning the angle stop, the knob to the bottom left of the toilet. Flush the toilet to get rid of the water in the tank. Mop the remaining water with the sponge.

Step 2: Undo Supply Tube and Remove Ballcock: Disconnect the supply tube from the tank using the wrench. The supply tube is the tube that runs from the angle stop to the tank. Take off the mounting nut and remove the ballcock.

Step 3: Install New Ballcock: Place the new ballcock through the hole in the tank. Adjust it so that the lid fits on the toilet. Bend the refill tube so the tip fits into the overflow tube on the flush valve.

Step 4: Reattach Supply Tube: Attach the coupling nut on the underside of the tank. If you have no more repairs, attach the supply tube to the tank.

Step 5: Open Angle Stop: Turn the water back on at the angle stop.

Step 6: Correct Water Level: Adjust the water so that it is 1/2 inch below the top of the overflow tube. You adjust the ballcock by pinching the spring clip. This moves the float cup up and down. Move the float cup up to raise the water level and move the cup down to lower the water.

Written by Roy Barnhart, home improvement expert, Fairfield, CT.

Replacing Your Toilet

The toilet is often looked at as a set feature of your bathroom. But it isn't. You'll want to replace the toilet when remodeling your bathroom so it matches your new decor. Or you may want to get one that's more efficient.

There are two main versions that look similar but have some different operations. However both meet the federal law that states that new toilets can only use 1.6 gallons of water per flush.

·    Gravity-Operated Toilet: Most commonly used today, it carefully regulates the inflow of water. Gravity-operated toilets are best used in houses that have low water pressure.

·    Pressure-Tank Toilet: Named so because it pressurizes the water when it is filling and rapidly releases the pressure when flushed. This causes the water to be forcefully pushed from the toilet. One possible drawback is that when it flushes it makes a loud noise. However, this is a good toilet when the sewer is far away (such as in the country) or it often clogs. The increased pressure helps break up any debris in the pipe.

Prices range from the blue collar toilet to the royal throne. You just need to choose the model type, color and shape that you want.

Measure first: Before you buy, make sure the toilet will fit. Measure the distance from the wall to the pipe that is in the floor. Measure from the wall (not the baseboard) to the center of the bolt that holds the toilet to the floor. Measure to the closest bolt if there are two. The customary distance is 12 inches but it could be more, or less.

Tools and Materials You Need:

·    Sponges and rags

·    Plunger

·    8-inch adjustable wrench

·    8-inch flat head screwdriver

·    Hacksaw

·    Pan

·    Putty knife

·    Wax or rubber closet seal

·    Toilet

·    Parts for inside the tank: ballcock, flush valve, handle, handle lever, rubber flapper, chain for flapper (you need to buy these but some parts might come as a kit so you might not have to buy them all individually)

·    Brass closet and tank bolts (some toilets come with these but they might be plated steel, you want brass)

·    Level

·    Spud wrench or 10-inch channel-type pliers

·    Flexible supply tube (if old one won't reach new tank)

·    Tubing bender (need if using new supply tube)

·    Tubing cutter (need if using new supply tube)

·    Brass compression fittings

·    Pipe joint compound

·    Adjustable wrench

Tip:  There are different types of ballcocks that you can get. The most durable and water efficient is the float cup ballcock. This ballcock regulates the water better and it is made from plastic which protects it from rust and warping. Avoid the ballcock made from brass, which can bend and warp.

Do-It-Best-Yourself Mold Solutions

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     2. Buy do-it-yourself, affordable mold test kits, mold lab analysis, video inspection scope, mold cleaner, and mold killer, for the  successful toxic and household mold inspection, mold testing, mold species identification and quantification, mold cleaning, mold removal, and mold remediation to find mold, kill mold, clean mold, and remove mold from your residence or commercial building.

     3. Get FREE mold advice, mold help, and/or answers to your mold questions, by emailing mold expert Phillip Fry at You can also email pictures of your mold problems in jpeg file format as email attachments.

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Find Hidden Toxic Mold Growth by inspecting inside walls, ceilings, and heating/cooling ducts and equipment with your own Video PRO Inspection Scope


Buy Boric Acid as a Non-Toxic and Natural
 Way To Remove, Kill and Prevent Household Mold and Toxic Mold, as well as Kill Cockroaches



Do-It-Best-Yourself Mold Solutions

Phil can help you fix your own property’s mold problems at low-cost, more safely, and better-in- results than what is done by many mold inspectors and mold contractors.  How can Phil help you?

     1. Read Phil’s five plain-English,
mold advice books to master mold inspection, testing, removal, remediation, and prevention for your house, condo, apartment, office,  or workplace.

     2. Buy do-it-yourself, affordable mold test kits, mold lab analysis, video inspection scope, mold cleaner, mold killer,
and a mold-killing high ozone generator for the  successful toxic and household mold inspection, mold testing, mold species identification and quantification, mold cleaning, mold removal, and mold remediation to find mold, kill mold, clean mold, and remove mold from your residence or commercial building.

     3. Get FREE mold advice, mold help, and/or answers to your mold questions, by emailing mold expert Phillip Fry at . You can also email pictures of your mold problems in jpeg file format as email attachments.

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