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TOILET TIPS and
PROJECTS
Your Toilet's Running
It may seem a minor thing, but toilets that don't stop running can
waste hundreds of gallons of water a year. Even if your toilet's not
making any noise, you may have a "silent leak." Here's a simple test:
Put a dozen drops of colored food dye into your tank, then wait a half
hour and see if any of the color leaked into the bowl.
If so, take a thick pencil, mark the tank's water level and turn
off the toilet's incoming water valve. Wait another half hour, then
check the tank. If the water's dropped, then you have a leak at the
seal between the tank and the bowl; check for a worn-out tank ball or
a cracked seal and replace it right away.
Replacing a Toilet
IMPORTANT: Read this before you start
Introduction
You may want to replace the toilet in your bathroom for a number of
reasons. Perhaps you have a cracked toilet, an antiquated model or one
that uses a significant amount of water. There are a number of new
models which will match the décor of your home and reduce the amount
of water required per flush. Also, new toilets come in a variety of
shapes that are more comfortable. Replacing a toilet is not as
difficult as it may seem. The toughest part is dealing with its
weight. The shape of the toilet makes it difficult to maneuver in what
is usually a tight space. A few tools and a little bit of muscle this
project will be wrapped up before lunch.
Before you start...
Skill Level & Time to complete
Beginner - 5 to 6 hours
Intermediate - 4 to 5 hours
Advanced - 3 to 4 hours
Caution!
Be sure water supply to the unit is off.
Caution!
Inspect for the water damage to the sub floor before
installing the new unit.
Common Mistake:
Do not
attempt to tighten the toilet base flush to the floor. Due to the
installation of the new wax ring it is common for there to be gap
between the base and the floor around an eight of an inch, which you
can caulk.
Helpful Tips:
Because
toilet manufacturers vary, always install hardware supplied with the
new unit.
Helpful Tips: Use a second person to help install the base
Learning Steps
1.
Shut
off the water supply to the toilet and flush the toilet holding the
handle down to empty the tank of the remaining water. If there is any
water left in the tank use a sponge to wipe it dry
2.
Disconnect the water supply line to the tank by reaching into the tank
and unthreading the connector.
3.
To
remove the tank from the bowl, loosen the bolts on the inside of the
tank with a screwdriver while holding the nut on the outside of the
tank with pliers. Set the tank aside and then remove any water that is
left in the bowl with a sponge.
4.
Remove
the bolts that are located at the base of the toilet. There are times
when these bolts may be difficult to remove. If there is any old
plumbers putty around the bolt use a scraper to remove it or apply
some penetrating oil to release the bolts if they are corroded. If
neither of these methods works, your only option is to use a hacksaw
and cut the bolts off.
5.
Now
rock the toilet back and forth to break the seal between the toilet
and the piping. Carefully remove the toilet and set it aside. With
rubber gloves on, stuff a large rag into the drainpipe to keep the
sewer gases from escaping and polluting your bathroom air. Unscrew and
remove the flange around the drain pipe and with the plastic scraper
remove any old plumbers putty around the floor so that the new toilet
makes a tight seal.
6.
Turn
the new toilet bowl on its side or upside down on a towel or soft
cloth to prevent damage to the bowl. Run a bead of plumbers putty
around the base of the toilet bowl, which will make a watertight seal
with the piping that runs to the sewer.
7.
Place
wax gasket on the base horn pressing hard enough to make it stick in
place.
8.
Use
plumbers putty around the base of the bolts to hold them in place and
fit the flange over the top of the bolts. Screw the new flange into
the drainpipe & floor.
9.
Now
turn the toilet upright and lower it into position so that the bolts
align into the base. Be sure that you remember to remove the rags from
the drainpipe!
10.
Level
the bowl using a level. You can place shims into position if the
toilet is not level.
11.
Slip a
metal washer over each bolt and tighten the nuts to secure the toilet.
Alternately tighten the bolts very slowly or the bowl will crack.
12.
Now you
will need to install the tank on top of the toilet. Place the spud
washer over the inlet opening. Lower the tank over the bowl lining up
with the holes. Bolt the tank to the bowl; again tighten slowly so the
tank does not crack.
13.
Using
Teflon tape around the threads when connecting the water supply line.
Turn the water supply back on and allow the tank to fill. Flush the
toilet a few times and check for leaks and finally attach the toilet
seat.
Shopping List
Materials Needed
Toilet (necessary hardware should be included)
·
Plumber's putty
·
Silicone caulk
·
Flexible braided steel supply line (if it is not included with the
toilet)
·
Rubber gloves (useful when replacing an old toilet
·
Rags
(place in floor drain to block sewer gases
·
Teflon Tape (small roll)
Tools Needed
·
Adjustable Wrench (crescent style)
·
Screwdriver (Large)
·
Plastic Scraper
·
Penetrating Oil (useful for softening corrosive metals)
·
Hacksaw
·
Tools
Needed
·
Adjustable Wrench (crescent style)
·
Screwdriver (Large)
·
Plastic Scraper
·
Penetrating Oil (useful for softening corrosive metals)
·
Hacksaw
Copyright© 2000 Easy2.com, Inc. All rights reserved.
Adjust a Poorly
Flushing
Toilet
Due to recent water conservation requirements, all toilets made for
use in the
United States
can consume no more than 1.6 gallons per flush. Older toilets, made
prior to the 1994 law, use as much as 3.5 to 5 gallons per flush.
While numerous consumer surveys prove that the great majority of
1.6-gallon-per-flush toilets work very well (as well as save hundreds
of millions of gallons of fresh water per day), many people find
themselves needing to flush twice because of a poorly flushing toilet.
Here are steps that can be taken to improve the flush performance
should you desire it.
Tools and Materials
·
Screwdriver
·
Drain auger
·
Hacksaw
·
Nail
or copper wire
1. Adjust Water Level:
Lift off tank cover. If the water level is not
in line with the waterline mark (usually found on the tank or overflow
tube), adjust the water level. For most plunger or
diaphragm-type fill valves that have a float ball on the end of a
brass float arm, bend the arm downward a little to lower the water
level; bend upward to raise it. Use both hands when bending the brass
float arm so as not to apply stress to either the valve or the float
ball.
This could cause these parts to break. Never attempt to bend
plastic float arms. Some models have a water level (and fill rate)
adjustment screw on the top. If so, turn the adjustment screw in the
top of the valve counterclockwise to increase the amount of water in
the tank, and clockwise to decrease it. For a float-cup, pinch
the spring clip to raise or lower the float as needed. For
floatless models, turn the adjustment screw counterclockwise about
one-half turn at a time.
·
Tip:
If a replacement flush valve has been installed or is being installed,
cut the overflow tube with a hacksaw, if necessary, to assure that the
water level in the tank, when at the proper height, is no lower than
1/2 inch below the top of the overflow tube.
If a replacement ballcock has been installed or is being installed,
make sure that the water level in the tank, when at the proper height,
is no less than 1/2 inch below the top of the overflow tube on the
flush valve.
A bowl that does not fully empty during a flush does not indicate a
problem. Some low-consumption toilets typically don't evacuate the
bowl as was typical of old-technology models.
2. Open Shut-off Valve:
Fully open the water supply shut-off valve to
assure that there is adequate water pressure and volume.
·
Tip:
People may partially close a valve to quiet a toilet that is noisy
when its fills. More often the cause of a noisy fill is an obstruction
in the fill valve or worn fill valve washers. Turn off the water
supply to open the top of the fill valve to inspect/replace washers.
Before reassembly, place a plastic cup over the open fill valve and
turn on the water slightly for a few seconds to flush the line.
3. Clear Obstructions:
An obstruction in the trapway, which is the
curved passageway extending from the opening in the bowl to the waste
pipe opening at the floor, is obvious when it causes a clog and/or an
overflow. A smaller obstruction, which might include any number of
foreign objects that have no business being in a toilet, can cause
sluggish flushing, leave a dirty bowl, and cause frequent clogging.
Push a drain auger into the opening in the bowl until you feel an
obstruction, turn the handle clockwise to "screw" the head of the
auger into the obstruction, and keep turning as you draw the
obstruction back into the bowl.
·
Tip:
A plunger is fine for clogs caused by excessive waste and tissue, but
if you use one for other obstructions there is an added risk that you
might simply move the object out of reach.
4. Clear Clogged Bowl Rim Holes:
During
a flush, inspect the holes on the underside of the bowl rim using a
mirror. Any mineral build-up in the holes reduces or cuts off the
volume of water that flows down the sides of a bowl to clean them
during a flush. Clear clogs by inserting a 6d nail or a piece of 10-
or 12-gauge copper wire into each hole and twisting and rotating it as
needed to scrape the wall of the hole.
5. Call for Help:
If after taking the above steps the sluggish
performance persists, you may have an obstruction in the vent pipe
that exits through your roof or somewhere in the soil stack. Seek
professional assistance from a licensed drain-cleaning service or
plumber. Also, for new toilets, call the manufacturer (most have 800
consumer hotlines) and seek their advice to improve flushing action.
Written by Casey Nevelson, home improvement expert. Art courtesy of
American
Below-Grade Toilet Options and Installation Tips
By: Paul
Bianchina
When installing a
toilet, the most basic premise for the operation of the sewer system
is that drain lines need to slope from the toilet down to the sewer or
septic tank. Sounds simple enough -- until you’re faced with adding a
toilet in a basement or other location that’s already below the level
of the main sewer line. If such an installation is in any of your
future remodeling plans, there are a couple of different strategies to
consider.
Establishing Grade
The first choice
for the below-grade installation of a toilet is to see if it’s
possible to establish the necessary slope from toilet to sewer. This
may seem impossible at first glace, but many sewer lines are actually
quite deep, and with proper excavating you may be able to establish
the necessary quarter-inch per foot of slope that’s required for good
drainage.
First, you need to
locate the main sewer or septic line and determine its depth. This may
require a trip to your local city or county public works department to
check on sewer locations and approximate depths for your home, or, in
the case of a septic system, a consultation with your local building
department. If the records are not available, you may need to talk
with an excavator who’s familiar with the area, and perhaps dig a test
hole to locate the line.
Once you have the
depth of the sewer line, you’ll next need to determine the exact level
of the proposed toilet installation, then compare one to the other.
This will require the use of a transit or laser level, which can be
rented, or a consultation with a plumber, contractor, or excavator. If
the level of the sewer line is sufficiently below the level of the
toilet, you can simply install a 3-inch drain line from toilet to
sewer in the normal manner.
Sewage Ejector Toilets
If it’s impossible
to get the necessary natural grade for a standard gravity flow toilet,
another possibility is a specialized fixture called a sewage ejector
toilet, which is designed for below-grade installation.
The typical sewage
ejector toilet consists of a pedestal made of polyethylene, which acts
as a base for mounting the toilet. The pedestal, which is about five
to six inches high, can sit directly on the floor or can be recessed
so that the toilet itself ends up level with the floor. Inside the
unit is a set of impellors and a sewage ejector pump, which processes
the waste and pushes it up to discharge into the main sewer line.
Some models of
sewage ejector toilets are designed with the pump and related vent and
discharge lines located far enough behind the toilet that it’s
possible to construct a wall between the toilet and the pump
equipment. This allows for a cleaner installation, and makes the pipes
and equipment much less obtrusive.
Composting Toilets
Another below-grade
option is the composting toilet, which eliminates the need for a
discharge pump and gives a boost to the environment as well. The
toilet, which is a fully self-contained unit, requires no water inlet,
no connection to a sewer, and no chemicals, but does require an
electrical connection and a vent to the outside.
Composting toilets
work similar to a septic tank. Approximately 90 percent of the waste
material entering a toilet is actually water, so the composting toilet
utilizes a small electric heating grid and fan inside the unit to
evaporate the liquids through the vent pipe. The remaining 10 percent
of the waste material breaks down through normal bacterial action, and
is converted naturally into a soil-type residue. This residue filters
down through a grid into a collection tray located in the bottom of
the toilet. In normal use, the tray only requires emptying about once
a year.
Composting toilets
are not only good for below-grade applications, but also work great in
cabins, shops, warehouses, and other locations where the installation
of the waste and water lines necessary for a standard toilet is
impractical.
Sewage ejector and
composting toilets are typically available by special order through
plumbing fixture retailers, or through your plumber.
Copyright 2002 Inman
News Features. Distributed by Inman News Features
How to Repair a Running Toilet
A running toilet can be a simple thing to fix, and water savings
add up quickly.
Step 1
. First check the guide rod or chain on the tank stopper. If the
rod is bent or the chain links are twisted just straighten them .
Step 2 . Next check the float mechanism. If lifting the ball up stops the
water from running, try to bend the float arm down to get the right
buoyancy. If you notice that the ball has water in it, it needs to be
replaced. Replace it by unscrewing it from the arm and putting a new
one in its place.
Step 3
. If the toilet is still running the valve seat and stop per may
have corrosion or build up preventing the stopper from closing. Lift
the stopper up and check for any objects. Gently scour the seat and
the rim. If there is a great deal of damage replace the stopper and
valve seat.
Step 4 . The flush valve assembly may have to be replaced if the toilet
is still running. Take the old parts with you when purchasing new
inside gaskets and assemble to ensure a perfect match. If the shaft of
the assembly is cracked, the whole shaft and assembly will need to be
replaced. Again take the flush valve assembly with you to get a
perfect match.
How To Unclog a Toilet
Be careful when unplugging a toilet with sewer snakes. They may
nick and ding the bowl of your toilet. Toilet snakes are made with
rubber padding for this type of job.
Step 1 . Try a plumbers helper (plunger) if drain cleaner has not removed
the clog. A plumbers helper is positioned over the hole at the bottom
of the bowl and pushed up and down several times to burp the clog
through. If you have not positioned the rubber on the helper right
some water may splash on the surrounding area.
The proper way to use a plunger is:
1.
Make
sure there is only enough water to cover the plunger cup.
2.
Use
petroleum jelly on the rim of the cup for a tight fit.
3.
Insert
the plunger at an angle so no air is trapped under the cup.
4.
1 to 20
forceful strokes, holding the plunger upright and pumping vigorously.
5.
Repeat
several times to burp the entire clog through.
Step 2 . If it is a major clog a toilet snake or closet auger with a
padded end is best to use. Place the padded end in the toilet bowl.
Work it in the hole and push the handle down and turn it to push the
clog through.
New Parts Quick Fix Noisy Toilet
By: Paul
Bianchina
Do you have one of those toilets that seems to enjoy the sound of
its own voice? Flush it once and it gurgles on forever, or, even more
annoying and much more potentially harmful, it drips around the supply
line? There's no need to discard the toilet and invest in a new one --
the answer is a simple repair inside the toilet tank that's a pretty
easy do-it-yourself project.
All residential flush toilets operate in pretty much the same way.
When the flush handle is pushed, a flapper that covers and seals a
hole in the bottom of the upper tank opens, releasing its store of
water into the bowl below. Water pressure temporarily holds the
flapper in the open position -- when the water has all drained into
the bowl, the flapper drops automatically and seals the hole.
A float mechanism also drops as the water is released, opening a
valve in the tank to allow fresh water to enter and refill the tank.
When the float rises to a preset limit it shuts off the incoming
water, and the flushing cycle is complete and ready for another
sequence.
With only a couple of moving parts that can go awry, just about any
problem you have in the flushing of a toilet can be traced to this
valve and float assembly, called a ball cock assembly. And while you
can disassemble the mechanism and make repairs, it's an easier and
more effective long-term solution to simply replace the entire
assembly.
You can use a ball cock assembly that is the same as what's in the
toilet now, which in most toilets is a hollow float ball attached to
the end of a long float arm, or you might wish to use one of the newer
float cup assemblies, which uses an open plastic cup directly on the
valve assembly (there's no long metal float arm, so the mechanism is a
little easier to install and adjust). Both types of assemblies are
available at home centers, hardware stores, plumbing supply stores and
a variety of other retail outlets.
Installation
First, shut the water to the toilet, using the stop valve that
comes out of the wall or the floor below the left side of the tank. If
this valve is defective and won't shut the water flow to the toilet
completely, use the home's main shutoff valve to shut the water to the
entire house. While the house water is off, replace the bad toilet
stop valve as well. Flush the toilet to empty the water in the tank,
then use a cup and some towels to remove any remaining water and dry
the inside of the tank (the tank contains only fresh water).
Inside the tank, first remove the float arm and ball. Using a pair
of adjustable pliers, hold the bottom of the ball cock assembly just
above where it exits through the bottom of the tank -- a pair of
locking pliers makes this even easier, and frees up both your hands.
Then, use an adjustable wrench and remove the water line where it
attaches to the ball cock. With the wrench or the pliers, loosen and
remove the nut below the tank that holds the assembly in place, then
lift the entire ball cock assembly out of the tank and discard it. If
you have trouble removing the nut, soak it in oil for ten minutes or
so -- don't force it, or you run the risk of cracking the porcelain of
the tank.
Installing the new ball cock or float cup assembly is the reverse
of the removal process. Install the new rubber washer under the bottom
of the assembly, and pass the lower threaded portion through the
bottom of the tank. Install the lower washers, secure the assembly
with a new nut, and reinstall the water line. All of the necessary
washers, nuts and other parts are supplied with the new unit, so don't
reuse any of the old stuff. Complete installation instructions are
included.
Turn the water back on, and let the tank fill. Following the
instructions supplied with the unit, adjust the assembly to achieve
the proper water level inside the tank. For a ball assembly, this is
done by moving the float ball in or out on the float arm, and also
moving the adjusting screw located where the float arm meets the valve
assembly. To adjust a float cup assembly, squeeze the retaining clip
on the cup and move the cup up or down to the proper level. Finally,
flush the tank a couple of times to check for smooth -- and now quiet
-- operation.
Copyright 2001-2002 Inman News Features. Distributed by Inman News
Features
Opening a Clogged Toilet
Step 1: A regular suction cup plunger will seldom do the job (B). A force
ball-type plunger exerts a great deal more pressure for cleaning
toilets than the regular type.
Be sure to have sufficient water in the toilet bowl when using the
plunger.
Step 2: If the plunger does not clear the clogged drain, use a closet
auger (Fig. 10). Start the auger or snake into the bowl and continue
to crank it until it becomes tight. This cranking and pulling action
will usually bring up the object that is causing the stoppage.
Step 3: If the closet auger is not effective, use a small snake
in the same way as described for opening lavatory drains.
Step 4: If neither the plunger, the closet auger, nor the snake
removes the obstruction, you may need to remove the toilet from the
floor, turn it upside down, and force the obstruction out from the top
or bottom.
Step 5: If you must remove the toilet from the floor, use
either a wax preformed O-ring or fresh plumber's putty in reseating
the toilet.
Courtesy
of National Retail Hardware Association
Plunging Without a Plunger
A quick, clean and easy way to unclog a toilet
Tools:
A nearby waste basket or water bucket
Tips:
An alternative to using a plunger to clear a clogged toilet when
the water level in the bowl is low is to use hydrostatic pressure.
To accomplish this, fill a bucket or plastic wastebasket with water (I
usually use warm water) and pour it into the clogged toilet from waist
level or above . This is usually enough force to clear the
clog. Sometimes it's necessary to repeat the process. There's no
clean-up required, other than splash-back, and the tools are usually
handy.
This helpful
article was provided by DoItYourself.com community member Chuck Cook.
If you are interested in sharing your do-it-yourself knowledge and
know-how with the DoItYourself.com's community,
How to Remove and
Replace a Toilet
Step 1 Turn the water off at the supply lines. Flush the toilet several
times to remove water from the bowl and tank. Use a sponge to remove
any remaining water from the tank and the bowl.
Step 2
. Remove the wing nuts that attach the tank to the bowl. If they
are corroded, use penetrating oil to help loosen them.
Step 3 . Disconnect the water supply lines. Now the tank is ready to
remove from the bowl.
Step 4
. Remove the caps at the base of the toilet. These may be severely
corroded and require penetrating oil. If the corrosion is severe you
may have to grind or cut off the nuts. Use a utility knife to cut the
caulk at the base of the bowl for easy removal.
Step 5 . Lift off the bowl. The seal is now visible. Be careful to get
the right wax seal. Some wax seals come with extensions for floors
that have been built up. Some wax seals can be joined back to back to
create a double height seal as well. If there is any question about
the seal you need, take the old seal with you and the name of the
toilet MANUFACTURER so a perfect match can be made.
Step 6 . Make sure the seal is room temperature or warmer before
refitting the bowl. Lift the bowl back over the nuts into position.
Rotate the bowl back and forth several times to seat the seal. Line
the bowl up with the wall and check to make sure the bowl is level.
Step 7 . Replace the nuts at the bottom of the bowl and fill the caps
with plumbers putty to keep water out.
Step 8 . Put the tank on the bowl. Check the spud washer for any damage.
If damaged replace it now.
Step 9
. Tighten up the wing nuts and reconnect the water supply lines.
Turn the water on and flush the toilet several times to check for any
leaks.
Step 10
. Re-caulk the base of the bowl to create a water proof seal which
protects the floor and provides additional stability.
Replacing the Toilet
Tank Parts
The parts inside a toilet tank are used several times each day and
are constantly submerged in water. This causes a lot of wear and tear
on these parts, but the good news is, they are very easy to replace.
There are three main parts in the tank:
·
Handle
·
Flush
valve
·
Ballcock
Replace the Handle
The handles need to be changed every once in a while because they
crack or break. Also, if you are redecorating you might want to get a
brass handle to go with a brass faucet.
Tools and Materials:
·
Adjustable wrench
·
Handle
with hand lever
Step 1: Remove Handle: Detach the old handle by turning the mounting
nut clockwise (the nut has reversed threads)
Step 2: Attach New Handle: Place the new handle through the handle hole
on the tank. Inside the tank attach the new handle lever, or reuse the
old one, to the handle. Tighten the mounting nut using the wrench by
going counterclockwise.
Replace Flush Valve
Tools and Materials:
·
Sponges
·
Flat
head screwdriver
·
Adjustable wrench
·
Spud
wrench or channel-type pliers
·
Flush
valve
·
Rubber
flapper
·
Lift
chain
Step 1: Empty Tank:
Shut off the water by turning the angle stop,
the knob on the bottom left of the toilet. Flush the toilet to get rid
of the water in the tank. Mop the remaining water with the sponge.
Step 2: Remove Supply Tube: Disconnect the supply tube from the tank using
the wrench. This is the tube that runs from the tank to the angle
stop.
Step 3: Remove Tank: Unbolt the tank from the bowl. It might be
stuck on well, so grab the bolt with the wrench and use the
screwdriver to unscrew the bolt. Lift the tank off the bowl and turn
it over.
Step 4: Take Out Old Flush Valve:
Take
the spud washer off the pipe that sticks out of the bottom of the
tank. Use the spud wrench or channel-type pliers and unscrew the spud
nut. Remove the flush valve.
Step 5: Replace Old Flush Valve:
Put the
cone washer over the tailpiece so that the beveled edge of the washer
faces up toward the pipe. Turn the tank right side up. Put the flush
valve into the hole in the tank so that the little tailpiece sticks
out the bottom. Position the valve so that the overflow pipe is next
to the ballcock.
Step 6: Install Spud Nut:
Turn the tank over and use the spud wrench or
channel-type pliers to tighten the spud nut onto the tailpiece. Put
the spud washer over the spud nut. Turn the tank right side up.
Step 7: Reattach Tank: Place the tank onto the bowl making sure that
the spud washer goes through the hole in the bowl. Bolt the tank to
the bowl using the wrench and the screwdriver.
·
Caution:
Don't
over tighten the bolts or it can break the porcelain. The bolts should
just be snug.
Step 8: Put In Flapper:
Attach the flapper to the overflow pipe inside
the bowl. There are little lugs that it attaches to. Attach the lever
chain from the flapper to the handle lever. The chain should be taut.
Step 9: Attach Supply Tube:
If there are no more repairs, reattach
the supply tube to the tank and turn the water on.
Replace Float-Cup
Ballcock
The ballcock comes in different types. A newer style, to replace
the old float-arm ball type, is the float-cup ballcock. This is
recommended because it is more water efficient and is made of plastic,
which wears better. The float ball-arm is made of brass which can
warp, affecting the water level. The following instructions use the
float cup ballcock because it is new and better.
Tools and Materials:
·
Sponges
·
Adjustable wrench
·
Ballcock
Step 1: Empty Tank: Shut off the water by turning the angle stop,
the knob to the bottom left of the toilet. Flush the toilet to get rid
of the water in the tank. Mop the remaining water with the sponge.
Step 2: Undo Supply Tube and Remove Ballcock:
Disconnect the supply tube from the tank using the wrench. The supply
tube is the tube that runs from the angle stop to the tank. Take off
the mounting nut and remove the ballcock.
Step 3: Install New Ballcock: Place the new ballcock through the hole
in the tank. Adjust it so that the lid fits on the toilet. Bend the
refill tube so the tip fits into the overflow tube on the flush valve.
Step 4: Reattach Supply Tube:
Attach the coupling nut on the underside
of the tank. If you have no more repairs, attach the supply tube to
the tank.
Step 5: Open Angle Stop: Turn the water back on at the angle stop.
Step 6: Correct Water Level: Adjust the water so that it is 1/2 inch
below the top of the overflow tube. You adjust the ballcock by
pinching the spring clip. This moves the float cup up and down. Move
the float cup up to raise the water level and move the cup down to
lower the water.
Written
by Roy Barnhart, home improvement expert, Fairfield, CT.
Replacing Your Toilet
The toilet is often looked at as a set feature of your bathroom.
But it isn't. You'll want to replace the toilet when remodeling your
bathroom so it matches your new decor. Or you may want to get one
that's more efficient.
There are two main versions that look similar but have some
different operations. However both meet the federal law that states
that new toilets can only use 1.6 gallons of water per flush.
·
Gravity-Operated Toilet: Most commonly used today, it carefully
regulates the inflow of water. Gravity-operated toilets are best used
in houses that have low water pressure.
·
Pressure-Tank Toilet: Named so because it pressurizes the water when
it is filling and rapidly releases the pressure when flushed. This
causes the water to be forcefully pushed from the toilet. One possible
drawback is that when it flushes it makes a loud noise. However, this
is a good toilet when the sewer is far away (such as in the country)
or it often clogs. The increased pressure helps break up any debris in
the pipe.
Prices range from the blue collar toilet to the royal throne. You
just need to choose the model type, color and shape that you want.
Measure first: Before you buy, make sure the toilet will fit.
Measure the distance from the wall to the pipe that is in the floor.
Measure from the wall (not the baseboard) to the center of the bolt
that holds the toilet to the floor. Measure to the closest bolt if
there are two. The customary distance is 12 inches but it could be
more, or less.
Tools and Materials You Need:
·
Sponges
and rags
·
Plunger
·
8-inch
adjustable wrench
·
8-inch
flat head screwdriver
·
Hacksaw
·
Pan
·
Putty
knife
·
Wax or
rubber closet seal
·
Toilet
·
Parts
for inside the tank: ballcock, flush valve, handle, handle lever,
rubber flapper, chain for flapper (you need to buy these but some
parts might come as a kit so you might not have to buy them all
individually)
·
Brass
closet and tank bolts (some toilets come with these but they might be
plated steel, you want brass)
·
Level
·
Spud
wrench or 10-inch channel-type pliers
·
Flexible supply tube (if old one won't reach new tank)
·
Tubing
bender (need if using new supply tube)
·
Tubing
cutter (need if using new supply tube)
·
Brass
compression fittings
·
Pipe
joint compound
·
Adjustable wrench
Tip:
There are different types of ballcocks that you can get. The most
durable and water efficient is the float cup ballcock. This ballcock
regulates the water better and it is made from plastic which protects
it from rust and warping. Avoid the ballcock made from brass, which
can bend and warp.
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